- You know, I used to make fun of my aunt,
when she invites us to her house,
us as a family, you have to place your like,
bagel order, like, weeks in advance.
And then, I remember, my mom was disconsolate,
'cause my cousin Blake… Blake, I love you,
but you [omitted] up for my mom that year.
I had to hear about it the whole way home.
Why'd you eat Mom's pumpernickel?
It was your mom who said to place the order!
He ate the pumpernickel.
Thanks, [omitted], I love you, but thank you,
but [ommitted] you, but thank you.
(electronic music)
- We traveled all over the country on this season
of Food/Groups, but now that we're back home
in New York City, we've got a confession to make.
See, like all New Yorkers — natives, transplants, whatever —
we love bagels.
We love 'em so much in fact, that we did an episode
about 'em last season. But honestly,
we didn't quite go deep enough.
We didn't capture the essence of this city's
bagel identity.
So we're calling a do-over.
Food/Groups, New York City bagels, take two!
Schmear we go.
I think it works, right?
People'll get it, it's funny.
No?
Hmm.
(electronic music)
New York didn't invent bagels.
Most scholars agree they arrived here
thanks to Eastern European immigrants
around the turn of the 20th century.
So, why are they such a defining part
of New York City's food life?
To kick off our bigger, better New York City bagel tour,
we met with Ben Wagenberg, a native New Yorker
who's made 'em a defining part of his life
as a certified bagel tour guide.
- I was born right near here on 16th Street.
I grew up in Stuyvesant Town,
so it just turns out that I stayed here in Manhattan.
(upbeat music)
- I run Ben's Bagel Tours.
I've been doing it for about four or five years.
And I called it Ben's Bagel Tours
basically because one, it gets a smile on your face,
two, it's an iconic symbol of New York,
and three, everybody who starts one of my tours
get a fresh bagel.
- Thank you very much.
- There you go. - Excellent.
- This is from Tompkins Square Bagel,
which is right up the block.
And it's one of the better bagels that you find in New York.
(upbeat music)
- Let's talk a little bit about bagel history
here in New York.
- It really came when you had the immigration
of Eastern European Jews,
especially those from Poland.
They had bagels and they were easy to make.
It's a way for people to make business.
When it became more and more commercialized,
yes, you did have a union.
There was the bagel bakers union.
What killed them all, so to speak,
was when Murray Lender invented his process to freeze bagels.
And it then became easier for people to buy,
it became more generic.
One thing that's also a part of the bagel tradition
is smoked salmon.
Lox. - Why is that?
Do you know why?
Or when exactly the lox
became a part of the bagel tradition?
- Well, that's one time where you'll have to
Yom Kippur after fasting 24 hours.
That's true, a lot of people would eat that
or people would eat that in the morning.
Or especially on a Saturday or Sunday morning.
And then, again, when the food like the bagel
became more specialized, so did smoked salmon.
- Yeah.
- It became more not just for a small group of people.
It became more accepted and more desired.
- Is there anywhere in New York that does it still?
- Oh, absolutely.
If you wanna see
how they actually make smoked fish
you wanna go to ACME Smoked Fish.
(upbeat music)
- People have been smoking fish for, well,
as long as they had fire and salt really.
At ACME Smoked Fish, though,
they've been doing it for over a hundred years.
We headed across the Williamsburg Bridge
to meet Adam Caslow, co-CEO and fourth-generation owner
for a look at what makes lox
such a beloved New York bagel topper.
(upbeat music)
- Nova, lox, trout, sable, herring, kippered salmon,
pickled lox, jerky, poke, you name it.
Oh my gosh, whitefish, how could I forget about whitefish?
(laughing)
(upbeat music)
My family started in the smoked fish business
about over a hundred years ago.
My great grandfather, Harry Brownstein,
he had a horse-drawn wagon that he would take around
to smokehouses throughout Brooklyn.
He would bring smoked fish to different appetizing shops.
His dream was to open up his own smokehouse called ACME.
The most common smoked salmon is a cold-smoked salmon,
otherwise known as nova, or lox,
or… I'm sure there's some other "bubby" names
(laughing)
that exist out there.
And you can either wet cure or dry cure fish.
It's then brined for several days
depending on the size of fish.
Then put into the oven for smoking.
We use a fruitwood wood chip blend.
That plate will burn those chips
and the smoke is injected into that oven.
After that, the fish is packaged and shipped
to your local bagel store or deli for fine consumption.
- When I mention it to my friends
who aren't from New York, they're kinda, "well,
that sounds a little weird man."
Why do you think that lox and bagels and lox and schmear
have become more of a New York thing?
- I think in the same way that the deli business,
a pastrami sandwich maybe was once a Jewish icon.
Bagels have the same egalitarian notion to them.
What would New York be without a hotdog cart?
And I think the same can be true about bagels and lox.
(upbeat music)
I don't know that I'm necessarily saving the world
by making smoked fish, but I certainly hope
we're bringing a little bit of joy.
Because food is what fuels this city.
Besides coffee, I guess. - And anxiety.
- And anxiety, right. (laughing)
Right.
(birds chirping)
- Do you have a favorite New York bagel?
How do New Yorkers decide
on what their favorite bagel shop is?
- I grew up with a place called Ess-a-Bagel.
But when people ask me on my tours
where is the best bagel?
I will tell them I won't answer the question
because every New Yorker has their own favorite bagel.
A lot of times it's ones in the neighborhood,
whether it's because it's just nearby
or you appreciate the taste.
(upbeat music)
- We're in Brooklyn, New York.
I'm from Brooklyn, New York.
I've been a Jew for about 43 years,
and I've eaten bagels for nearly that entire time.
As long as I've had teeth.
(laughing)
And even maybe before I might've gummed a few.
Sort of lovingly gnawed.
But in a very Semitic way.
(laughing)
(upbeat music)
- If he's not in Brooklyn, his home town,
Adam Richman could be pretty much anywhere.
The culinary traveler, author, and TV host
is known best for his shows like 'Secret Eats'
and 'Man vs. Food' that have him eating all over the world.
But when he's not filming,
he still calls Brooklyn home.
(upbeat music)
- I grew up in kinda the Gravesend area of Brooklyn.
Homecrest between T and U.
I moved to Canarsie to the projects
with my mom, and then now, I live not far from here.
Growing up I have vivid memories of eating bagels
and watching ball games with my dad.
Or they used to show kung fu movies in New York
on the weekends.
Three Stooges.
And Yoo-hoo and bagels, man.
I don't know why.
There's something about seeing the knots
and seeing the actual twist of dough,
and seeing that kind of craftsmanship.
(upbeat music)
So this is tofu scallion and whitefish,
onion and tomato on a toasted everything.
Good for what ails ya.
So here, I'll… with you on this.
- Cheers.
- Cheers to you.
(upbeat music)
- Yeah, that whitefish is almost smokey.
They have like a really nice, but fishy.
Do you have early memories of this?
- I do indeed.
I remember being a little kid,
one of my first errands was going to get the bagels
for Sunday morning, or Saturday morning.
And my dad gave me a list.
And he wrote out the order.
And it was not terribly far from my house,
so it was like one of those errands
that as a parent he could feel safe sending me on.
But for me as a kid, it was one of the first times, like,
I had my list.
I had my cash.
It was one of those great feelings of responsibility.
And they smelled so good,
and they were,
my dad and I both knew this place baked their own.
And they would be warm.
And you could kinda like feel them kinda give in the bag
and kinda crunch in the bag.
And then you have this ice cold bag of lox spread,
and whitefish salad.
And being able to ring the bell.
And like everyone's excited, smells good.
And when you're all there
and Dad always got the sharp serrated knife
to cut them all.
And it's just, it's almost that big sort of family
smorgasbord thing.
(upbeat music)
This is my stepmom's combo.
Lox spread, tomato, onion on toasted sesame.
After you break your fast on Yom Kippur,
traditionally it's a kind of dairy meal.
And for Jews, dairy includes fish.
Go figure (laughs).
I've always felt that food, any given food,
any given dish, kind of exists on a continuum.
When you reinterpret that dish,
it becomes part of a continuum.
And it becomes part of your story.
(upbeat music)
People don't realize the history of the bagel
and how it encompasses so may countries.
An it encompasses such a remarkable story
of how it got here.
At some point it stops becoming like
the Jewish food as opposed to,
it's what New York eats in the morning.
The bagel's as much a part of New York
as your metro card, man.
(upbeat music)
- Maybe that's why New Yorkers identify
so deeply with bagels.
Not because they were invented here (which they weren't),
and not because they're delicious (which they are).
But because in a constantly changing city
of 8.5 million strangers you can't trust,
it's nice to be able to trust the bagel.
It's how New York east breakfast.
Sorta like…
- The bacon, egg, and cheese, salt, pepper, ketchup.
New York style.
- The bagel is just a classic
and sorta beautiful in its simplicity.
Like the bacon, egg, and cheese.
You can get it at diners,
you can get it at a fancy restaurant.
But to me, buttered kaiser roll,
runny egg, American cheese, plain old bacon,
fries and a Coke, hangover cure.
And just like that I feel better
and I feel that I've just somehow worked my way
into your bacon, egg, and cheese episode.
(laughing)
So, I'll see you guys next episode.
Hi everybody, I'm Adam Richmman, still talking about food.
(upbeat music)
- Huh.
Bacon, egg, and cheese.
Maybe someone should look into that.
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