in the last video I created a fluidizing bed fore casting lost foam patterns I had
to recast the bosses and in this video I'm gonna go ahead and clean up the
bosses and finish off the yoke and by the end of this video you'll get to see
the shaper with the yoke connected to the ram and it reciprocating as it will
when it's cutting material I cast two blanks and that I am using to turn down
the bosses these bosses mount on the inside of the shaper column this pin is
the pivot for the yoke and basically I'll turn down this other one I'll mount
it up face off the sides turn down the outside of this protrusion drill it bore
it out and that way these two will mount pretty much like this and the yoke will
be able to pivot on this
the process for cleaning up these castings is that I've used the angle
iron faceplate clamps that I made previously and I clamp in the part I
then face off one side of that part and after one side has been faced off I flip
it in for in face off the other end then I rotate it 90 degrees and put it back
in the clamps and face off in a third side
after the third side is flipped over I then go on to face a fourth side after
four sides have been faced off it's pretty much ready for drilling and
boring so I try to get it pretty well centered up in those faceplate clamps
and I had to kind of adjust my tool so that it could reach back up in right up
next to the faceplate clamps and this is just to turn down the diameter of that
boss once I had the boss to diameter I drilled out the bore of the boss and
then it marked out all I wanted it to be I used a regular cutting tool to score a
little groove that I used to help me guide the hacksaw that I used and I
didn't cut all the way through the hacksaw I cut it off without the lathe
on then I cleaned it up just using regular left hand turning tool now this
would have been a really savvy place to actually bore this hole to 12
millimeters unfortunately I didn't I tried to line it up as well as I could
just using that drill bit that I still had in the tailstock Chuck and that
really didn't work that well and I know you guys are probably just out there
screaming Oh Chuck get a Chuck but I will make one eventually at least that's
the plan I just this is the way the book calls
for so this is the way I'm doing it using these faceplate clamps and man it
it really was quite a hassle to try to fight and find the center on that I
really need to make it Chuck this I got it to within about ten thousandths plus or
minus
fortunately that really was all it took to get that hole size to 12 millimeters
and the pretty good fit for that shaft I
was only able to face this surface on the part so far while it was in the
chuck but I mounted this one on the arbor and what I'll do is use that to
clean up the outside of this boss as well as this front face here and then
I'll play this ol make these two parts look yeah I look pretty pretty cleaned
up
the last thing I need to do is to clean up the ends of these yoke support bosses
and I'm going to do that pretty much on this five-inch disc sander Bob Teeter
sent me this sander he's one of my patrons it really makes taking it out
and putting it up a breeze compared to the 12 inch disc sander that I have if
you got a small shop it's a probably a pretty good fit Bob really appreciates
this sander it's well sized for my shop especially in these
temporary quarters after I had the bosses cleaned up I went ahead and
cleaned up the yolk bottom casting and pretty much what I did is I put it on
the arbor and just trimmed down the sides this makes it a little easier to
line up with the yoke arms it'll be mounted to those arms later in
the video but having a little recess on either side helps ensure that the bore
is perpendicular to the yoke arms I cut the long arms of the yoke of some 5/8
inch cold-rolled steel and I kind of sized it up and started drilling that's
drilling the holes from the castings into those steel arms
so now I get a drill these this single hole out halfway through with a six
millimeter drill bit that way the six by one fasteners can go all the way through
and then on just one side of the yoke I'll use a five cap that way I can tap
it to six by one so I drilled and tapped one of the arms and then I used that
hole to bolt the upper casting to that arm and I see clamped it and after I
have it c-clamps where I wanted it I put it back in my drill press vise and
drilled the hole after I had that hole drilled where I needed it
unclamped everything and then I reek lamped it with the other
yo farm and that way I could drill a through hole so now all three holes are
lined up then I could take it out of the drill press vise and unclamp everything
at this point you know the type of work here becomes fairly repetitive for your
clamping and unclamping and Li clamping and drilling and tapping so I'll show
you the process once through with the upper yoke but then I'm going to skip it
with the lower yoke casting
it'll pretty much be the same drill on this last one clamp it up drill it
change the drill unclamp a tree clamp it drill it change the drill unclamp a tree
clamp that change the drill unclimbed a tree clamp it tap it and then assemble
it so I'll do that off camera so the book describes a kind of iterative
approach to positioning the yoke inside the column and basically what I ended up
doing was clamping the boss on the left side of the column to the column side
and then kind of finally adjusting where that pivot point was located so that the
clearance on the front would allow it to just barely clear that front casting and
the clearance on the back would prevent it from hitting the brace on the rear of
the column and it involves changing two things the position of the pivot as well
as the location on the bow wheel where the crank pin is located to drive the
sliding block that rides inside of the yoke so that did take a little bit of
playing around and get it pretty well where I wanted it I ground down some
flats on the ends of the pivot rod and that way set screws can
clamp down on those flat faces then filed a flat spot on the bosses and gave
it a little center punch so that I could drill a hole that I use for the set
screws I drilled it tapped it put a set screw in and a fairly normal drill here
it's important to always include flat faces onto rod stock so that when you
have a set screw bearing down on it it doesn't deform the rod and cause damage
to the bore that that rod is riding in
there's gonna be a oil hole here going diagonally into the center of this
bearing
I clamped these bosses into place after a little bit of trial and error I got it
to where the yoke just barely doesn't touch this bracket in the back and it
just clears the front column front casting in the front and there's just a
maybe an eighth of an inch gap up between the bottom of the rim slide and
the top of the yoke so I'm gonna go ahead and mark the top of the slide
block on the yoke that's kind of the maximum travel and I'm going to go ahead
and drill holes and tap the bosses so that I can install fasteners and have
these permanently fixed and then it'll be on to connecting the top casting of
the yoke to the bottom of the RAM slide so that way we can turn rotary motion
into reciprocating linear motion I
repeated the same thing on this side however this particular bolt is going to
interfere with the bearing support so I'm just going to make a little mark
here and I'll I'll get a file or something and make a little bit of a
relief for installing this fastener
these are the parts that I'll need to complete the linkage from the RAM to the
yoke and basically what it is is there's two long bars that are then spaced apart
using rear spacer the front spacers they'll be connected to the yoke using a
linkage and then there is a little Ram clamp guy and the actual clamp that will
mount to the RAM and secure all of this apparatus to the bottom side of the RAM
and then the yoke can drive the RAM with this articulating linkage I went ahead
and pre-drilled at least one hole in each axis this back hole set is the
first one that I really made acceptable for a fastener countersunk this one side
and tap the other side so these these holes will pretty much clamp this back
part of this assembly and that will allow me to register the front holes of
this assembly with the additional parts and then I can go back and clamp them
and drill them to where they're all perfectly aligned it's always a little
hard to get these things set up but you can see how I did it to trill it in my
small drill press over here I used my drill bit to align the holes that I had
pre-drilled in three of the parts and then I lined up the last part where I
wanted just using the bench surface and then I C clamped it into place I held
the other end in my drill press vise and then I drilled through this bottom
member using that same three millimeter drill bit and then I'll go through and
enlarge these holes drilling tapping and countersinking more necessary than this
rear assembly will be completed I've got all of these through holes drilled
counter saw tapped and several different sizes of holes
I've even rounded over the corners of these linkage parts and basically what
it is I drill them with a six millimeter hole and then attach them put bolts on
either end and ground off the radiuses there just to kind of clean them up a
little bit other interesting things I'm using a mix of fasteners so I've got
these old quarter 20 screws with the tapered heads and that is so that I can
use these and fastening these disassembly together that way is there
riding inside the column they won't bump into the sides and support the RAM need
to get along enough bolt that part of the bolt is unthreaded and that way it
kind of doesn't chafe on the inside of these holes it instead can just pivot
freely these bolts that I have are too long so I pretty much just clamp them
together and then I throw them in the vise and use a porter band
lop off the end
I want a free fit for the clamp guide block so I had to file it down a little
bit to get it to fit in between the clamp rails there's not really enough
clearance here to be able to put this linkage as an assembly to connect it to
the top of the yoke cause you can't get that pin through the top so it took me a
little bit of messing with it but eventually I just kind of figured out oh
this assembly goes on separately after the yokes in place so if you build one
of these that I had out reading the book it's not entirely obvious if that's the
way it goes together I used a sharpie gun described the lines
but it was pretty easy to see because of the smears from the grease that I used
so I needed to know where the pads were on the bottom of the RAM when I
positioned the clamp assembly Midway's between those edge pads
I used a diamond scribe to scribe little lines where the inside of these rails
are then I positioned the guide block in between them
I used a small drill bit to match drill the three millimeter hole then I kind of
Center punched it drilled it a little bit more took it over to the drill press
I drilled and then I tapped this hole for a six millimeter fastener I kind of
finished up the guide block I drilled the hole and tapped it for the clamp
which has an eight millimeter fastener that will go on the top I then also
drilled a six millimeter hole with a countersink for the fastener that will
connect the guide block to the bottom of the RAM so now I'll assemble all this
and put it back on the shaper and that means I should be able to turn the bolt
wheel and see the reciprocating motion of the RAM special thanks to all you
patrons out there if you liked the video consider sharing it with somebody who
you think may also like the video and thanks for watching
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