PRESENTS A TUTORIAL ON
HOW TO MAKE
SIMPLE LATEX WEAPON
Hi everybody, Wilku here
For OldTown Festival, LARP department, the crafting staff.
Today I'd like to show you how to make a simple latex weapon.
What do we mean? We mean to go from this
...To this.
Before we begin I'd like to emphasise that this tutorial is for complete amateurs,
people who have no idea how to make a safe latex weapon.
This tutorial is mainly targeted towards them.
So all the professionals, all the givers of awesome advice on the internet
save your comments for LARP Poland.
To make this weapon we will need: EVA foam, a fibreglass core.
The one we have here has a diameter of 8mm.
Latex, acrylic paints, black spray paint,
clear spray varnish, contact cement.
You might also find sticking plaster,
bandages and a piece of leather useful.
Let's deal with the core first.
This is a fibreglass rod, 8 mm in diameter. A good, sturdy material.
As cheap as the pierogi in the gastro zone at OT.
Usually you buy them 1m long, but I've cut this one in half. This is going to be our core.
What will we do? First we'll glue the bandage all around it and 2 pieces of leather to the ends.
This way it won't puncture the foam that easily (just in case)
and the bandage will provide us with...
There's a story circulating the internet that if you glue bandages around it
it will be harder to break.
In reality it won't slide inside the foam, because it can be nicely glued to it
Let's start by protecting the ends of our core with pieces of leather.
We will use leather shaped like an X
You can make more layers if you want to. We'll just make 1 layer for this movie.
And we'll use plain old sticking plaster to attatch it.
You put it on like this.
You can wrap the end too.
And you do the same with the other end.
Now we will put glue on the rod and wrap it up in bandages.
I'll be using contact cement, but it doesn't have to be contact cement,
but I use contact cement for everything because it's cool.
So rub it in nicely.
I'm so funny today.
Usually you have to wait for the contact cement to dry, because as the name implies it has to have contact with something
and a second layer of it later
but if we're wraping it in normal, non elastic bandage it's not that necessary.
It can be a bit wet.
Round and round. It doesn't have to be super precise. It's not about that.
The important thing is to cover everything.
You can leave the wrapped core to dry. We'll take care of our foam project now.
To cut out our weapon we'll use EVA foam everybody is surely familiar with.
Here we have it 10 and 5mm thick. You can substitute it with a foam sleeping mat,
leftover packing foam if you have it. You can even use a KUBOTA flipflop.
That's also a very good material.
But EVA foam is often mentioned, so we'll be pros and use it today.
We'll start with the 10 mm EVA foam. This is going to be our base.
We will later put the core inside it. Here's the other half of the core I was working with.
I'll use it for reference to draw the core as it's going to be.
Remember to leave some space here, from the hilt side,
so you don't stab anybody with the core.
And some in the front more or less 10cm has to be coreless.
I'll be doing this with a pen, because I misplaced my white marker.
So you might not see it on cam, but what's important is for me to see it.
After outlining the core you can draw the desired shape of the weapon you will be cutting out.
You can prepare a template on paper or cardboard. It's all up to you.
This being a tutorial for absolute noobs I will just make it up as I go.
We'll start from the <hehe> backside
From the hilt
You can leave out a bit more, we'll be sculpting and cutting it later anyway
it doesn't have to be super precise.
Let's do a small thingy here so it looks professional.
Let's make it in the shape of a typical pseudo-machete.
Often seen in the Wastelands. We all know that type very well.
Don't let the fact that I'm not drawing this perfectly worry you.
I'm not using a template. A template is not all that much required. Here.
Now I don't know. Should we make it round or perhaps straight?
Ah, let's make it round. A bit longer, you know.
We'll shape it like this. You can leave some more space from the core here,
...on the cutting edge. Just in case. Because you never know.
Here!
Now we're cutting it out. You'll need a cardboard cutter.
You can do it using a ruler or something long and hard *giggles*
-But we'll manage without it.
EVA foam is very easy and comfortable to cut.
Don't worry if you cut it a bit off mark.
We'll be correcting it all later anyway.
When it's cut out you can simply take it out.
It's going to be shaped like this. More or less.
Using our base foam as a template we will cut out the outside layers
out of the thinner 5mm foam.
They will go on the sides.
After cuting out all the elements of your weapon we can cut out some room for the core.
Here you have to be a little bit more precise,
so that our core fits the slit well.
Of course, it's stiill just foam. It's flexible and elastic.
So despite all you can still make it fit.
As I said: we'll work out all the kinks in post-production.
It's cut out. You can take it out.
Here you go a classy hole for the core.
Now we will glue all our parts into one proper whole.
There are several methods of doing it.
You don't have to do it like I do, I chose this way as the most convenient for me atm
You can stick the core inside the foam first.
It's not glued here yet.
You can put the 2 layers together and then insert the core.
But we'll do it this way. We'll start coating this part when it's not glued.
We're using contact cement for this. You don't have to use a thick layer of it.
It should be even, without anny hollow spaces.
And now we're coating the second layer.
Remember to flip it, because they go together like this, no?
Now an important moment. We need to wait for the glue to dry.
It has to become, as you see here, matte like this. Not shiny.
Only then can we stick these 2 layers together.
After our cement is dry we can glue our layers together.
An important piece of advice:
-remember to try to do this as evenly as you can.
If you mess up they will be practically stuck forever. So be careful.
Don't worry if it's a bit off. As I mentioned before we can fix it later.
It's not that important, just don't make it twisted sideways or it will be way harder to fix.
All uneven parts can be cut out and carved later.
We do the same thing to the other side, you can pour some glue into the core so it is held better
And we wait for it to dry
It's dry now, so we can glue both layers together
Now we have some uneven edges after gluing,
we need to grab a sharpie and cut all uneven parts and give the weapon the desired shape.
When we have the rough shape completed we need to smoothen it, give it a better texture
you can use sandpaper or continue with a sharp knife
but as I can I will use a dremel.
After finishing sanding you can of course try to get a better finish
even it out, make smoother edges, give it even better looks
but for this movie I will add only some damage and make it look like it had been used a lot.
You can do it with a sharpie, with soldering iron or a pyrograph
but here we are not... going to...
[HE CANNOT DO IT!]
we won't overcomplicate it, f*ck you I can, I have done that before!
I'm not gonna help you later! [he he he]
Weapon is now ready for latex, so we are on to this step
However before painting with latex we need to cover it with glue,
or all latex will peel like a sock out of it
Weapon prepared like this should be left to dry until it is all matte
I haven't covered the grip with glue as we will wrap it with a bandage or something.
Latex is not really needed here
In the meantime, when the glue is drying, we can prepare the latex
you can buy it in liquid form in art shops, but don't buy make-up latex
as it is sold in small quantities and is expensive, you need regular latex, at best in one litre bottle.
First of all we need to pour some to a bowl,
it smells bad, a bit like the interior of a toi-toi, so you will feel like home!
After drying it gets almost transparent, but it has a little cream shade
thus, we are gonna add black pigment, so later...
so later, when you use your weapon and the paint gets scraped off, and it's bound to get scraped off
it won't be that visible, because the latex underneath will still be black
It mixes well into such soup... Don't be alarmed by it turning grey
the latex is milky white and after it dries it will take on the pigment's colour
You can add acrylic paint instead, but of course, pigment is pigment.
Remember to buy lots of brushes, 'cause this one will definitely go to dumpster after painting the weapon
and most probably we will have to change it twice before we are done.
After the glue is dried we can start painting it with latex,
as you see in some spots we have air bubbles trapped below the glue,
sadly this is the typical problem of contact cement.
You can buy special spray contact cement instead of liquid one, it gives a better and even effect.
For our movie it is enough, and after all it's post-apo, post-apo forgives a lot
So try to paint one rather thin coat
It will drip anyways, so try not to have dangling droplets at the edges.
Such cool first layer needs to dry for about 20- 30 minures in room temperature
and then we are going to add another layer. You can apply 4-5
perhaps even 7 layers,
the more layers the better and smoother it will look, and it may cover some glue bubbles.
Now we have 3 layers of latex voth on the blade and the pommel, so we can start paining it.
There are a few painting methods, for example we can
paint it now and then coat it with transparent latex,
so the paint will be more durable and it won't scratch off
or you can lay multiple layers of latex and paint each of them,
but you can also simply paint straight on top of the latex and we will start with black spray
and then add some details with silver paint.
Try to spary from a distance in short strokes,
so the paint is not condensed too much,
as it will smudge, drip and take longer to dry, and just look worse.
Leave it do dry now
You can add another layer or two if you want, it is not necessary
It is black now, the latex also had black pigment, so one layer should cover it good enough
especially that we are going to decorate it.
So start with making gray paint that we will use like a primer.
We will use dry brush technique, familiar especially for figurine painters
so after you scoop some on the brush you need to clean it with a rag so it will leave only some light smudges.
Once the primer is done you need to apply silver metallic paint as a finish.
This paint also needs to be removed from the brush
and here try to be more precise, do the edges first
When you are done with the edges add some onto the sides to make it look more realistic.
After painting I have applied 2 -3 layers of transparent coat to protect the paint,
you can spray more layers if you want.
Also the painting does not have to look like this, you can decorate it in any way you like, add rust, more damage, it's up to you
To finish it out, we need to make a grip,
we will use the cheapest and easiest method, we will use adhesive bandage
When you finish it, take a rag, some brown paint, rub it in a little.
You don't actually need to paint it, this tape has its special quality
that it usually gets dirty after about 10 minutes of usage
So this special effect would happen anyway
Weapon done in this way looks very professional, please notice how thin I was able to make it,
and what's more, if you do it this way it will make realistic sounds!
:D
Okay, jokes aside, we have made this.
In this way we have made a post-apocalyptic machete
from foam and latex, you didn't need to spend lots of money,
this method will pass accreditation on any larp
We are finishing our tutorial, we hope that you liked it,
if you have any questions you can send us an e-mail
or visit our facebook page
and get to work, as next year we will burn all the silver sausages!
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