what up everyone it is the day we've all been waiting for time to start putting
the cr250 engine back together you guys know how excited I am so I'm not gonna
waste any time just gonna jump headfirst right into this project step one is the
press these bearings and seals into the crank cases all of these bearings and
seals were part of an engine rebuild kit that rent rabbits sent over so big thank
you to those guys an easy way to pop the bearings into the crank cases is first
gonna be to cool down the bearings in a freezer for a few hours or even
overnight and then you want to heat up the cases either in an oven or a
barbecue grill you want to heat up the entire crank case and not just the area
around where that bearing sits that could warp the crank case so how this
works is when things are cooled down they'll contract or shrink and then when
things are heated up they'll expand so that will allow the bearings is slide
into the crank cases that much easier and if we need any extra help we'll be
using a hydraulic press here to heat up the crank cases I'll be using this oven
that I use for powder coating as well I wouldn't recommend using your household
oven that you're gonna be cooking food in there could be some contaminants
coming from the crank case so I would rather just play it safe you could also
use a barbecue grill like I mentioned earlier so I've got the oven heated up
to 250 I'm just gonna run the crank case through there for 30 minutes and it
should be ready to go also got some tinfoil laid down to
protect the crank case too and then to pull the case out of the oven of course
you're gonna want to wear a thick set of gloves here because it's gonna be pretty
hot I'll just be using a set of worn-out scotch-brite pads I use that stuff for
everything and as soon as you pull the case out of the oven and the bearings
out of the freezer you gotta pop those bearings into place right away can't let
things cool off or heat up so the bearing should slide right into the
crank case without any hammering required I'm gonna start with the main
bearing here so it shouldn't matter which way the bearings go in but the old
bearings came out with the writing on the inside the crank case here so I'm
gonna install it the same way and one thing I've heard about but I haven't
tried is to cool off the bearing even more
people have been using a electronics duster so it's like compressed gas so
you flip over the can and spray the bearing with the can and that should
cool down the bearing even more before dropping it right into the crankcase so
I'm gonna give that a shot right now so I've got the bearing in about 90% of the
way and I really don't want to hammer on it so I'm gonna use the press to push it
in the rest of the way so whenever you're installing a bearing you always
want to push on the outside race of the bearing not the inner race and I've
actually got this part from a crankshaft installer tool that I'll be using later
on in the video and it fits perfectly on top the bearing here so this will work
great to press that bearing in the rest of the way just gonna line everything up
here on the press should be good to start pumping it down
ideally you shouldn't need to use the press to push in the bearings but this
one it went in most of the way and it didn't really take a whole lot of force
to get it seated so wasn't that big of an issue but for the rest of them I'm
hoping they go in without any problems at all once again just gonna slide in
these bearings with the lettering facing out towards the inside of the crankcase
one thing to keep in mind if you have a bearing that uses a retaining clip like
this one right here then there's gonna be a lip on the bearing here and you
want that lip facing out towards the retaining clip with this bearing the
lettering is actually facing the opposite way of what it should be
installed so that could throw you off but you definitely want to make 100%
sure that the lip is facing the correct way the bearings on this side went in
pretty good for the most part but on the right case I'm gonna heat it up to 350
instead just get it a little bit warmer one thing I've heard that works pretty
good too is using dry ice to cool down the bearings that'll get them a lot
colder than the freezer would but unfortunately I don't have any dry ice
on hand at the moment as you can imagine when you have something steel in the
freezer and you pull it out and heat it up it's gonna have some condensation so
I'm gonna squirt down these bearings with some maxima and ppl to prevent them
from rusting
the bearings on this case definitely went in a lot easier so I have the case
in the oven at 350 for 30 minutes and then hose down the bearings with the air
duster upside down to cool down the bearings of amore and that seemed to be
the ticket the bearings just slid right into place now I've got some bearing
retainers and some seals to install so this stuff is pretty straightforward
definitely want to use some assembly Lube for the seals I'll be using maximum
assembly Lube for that and for the bearing retainer bolts definitely want
to throw some Loctite on those threads
for the crank seals I'm just pressing them in by hand and tell their about
level with a case surface then I'm using a socket or something like this to push
the seal in all the way until it's flat with a case and you definitely want to
make sure it's 100% level you don't want it cock to the side at all actually I
was watching some older video of when I popped these old seals out and it looks
like the previous seal was actually in a little bit farther so I'm just gonna
press this seal in just a tad bit more to match
at this point I've got all the bearings and seals taken care of if it's time to
start filling up these cases the first step is gonna be pressing this Hot Rods
crank into the right crank case so for the most part it's pretty safe pressing
the crank into the main bearing without using any heat or cooling techniques
however I'm gonna apply a little bit of heat to help things out so I can either
heat up the main bearing or cool down the crankshaft and it's usually not a
good idea to heat up the main bearing especially with a seal on the other side
but what I've got here is a little safer method I've got a socket that fits
somewhat tight inside the bearing it's the closest one I could find so I'm
gonna heat up the socket slide it in and that will warm up the inside race of the
bearing and allow the crankshaft to slide in a little bit easier
that actually worked out a lot better than I was thinking so I wanted the need
to use the crankshaft puller kind of a bummer haven't even got to try the thing
out yet one thing I didn't mention is it's a good idea to put some premix or
assembly Lube into that main bearing before you slide the crank in so far the
hot rods crank and the bearings and seals have all checked out fine
everything has gone together pretty smoothly and now this is really what
I've been looking forward to getting this thing up on the engine stand and
starting the building process so basically I'm just gonna slide these
studs through the engine mounting holes and fasten it to the stand using the
wing nuts
so now I've got the crankcase secured in a stand just gonna test this thing out
and figure out what position I want to work in probably right about there or
even flat I think this would be a little better position that way have a better
angle of a slide in the transmission shafts ship drum shift forks and all
that jazz you guys have to go check out these
engine stands made by the healer concepts coolest thing ever if you're
gonna be working on the engine so they're available over at nihilo
concepts com I'll also put the link down below before
we get started with assembling the transmission I'm gonna squirt some
assembly Lube into these bearings and the purpose of this is to prevent damage
when the engine is first started up so when you build an engine and you add in
oil the oil is not going to be completely circulated throughout the
engine until a few seconds after the initial startup so that's where the
assembly Lube comes into place it'll protect those bearings and surfaces that
may not have oil in them at the initial startup as you can see there is a lot of
parts to the transmission so you want to make sure you've got everything there
before you start the assembly process so what you can do is head over to an OEM
parts supplier like Rocky Mountain for example pull up their fish or the parse
diagram print out the diagram for the transmission or the shifting components
and you'll have everything there to check over to make sure you've got all
the washers pins spacers gears all that I might as well just show you guys
firsthand so I'm over on rocky mountains website and I'm gonna pull up om parts
right here I've already got motorcycle 2003 which is the year of this bike all
that selected I'm just gonna find cr250 and then pull up the transmission
diagram gonna be down here at the bottom so it's got a nice breakdown of all the
gears shafts spacers washers and all that thatwe can check over everything on
the transmission make sure it's all there and by the way if you guys are in
need of parts definitely check out Rocky Mountain atv/mc they've got everything
you'd ever need om or aftermarket so I'm just gonna print out this diagram here
and I should be in business alright I'm gonna give you a little demonstration of
how it would check over each transmission shaft so we've got the main
shaft here and it's all broken down here on the diagram at the very end is a
washer which you can see is on there and then a gear you got a gear here then
another washer in between gonna pull that apart yep there is a washer in
there and then a gear after that and then a bushing of some sort and then a
washer or two washers and kind of see oh that's actually a clip yeah that's the
circlip in there so you can kind of pull things apart take a look at it make sure
it's all there and then a another gear you're at the end and then in between is
another let's see that looks like a circlet and then a splined washer as
well follow it up with a gear so I mean you could pull it all apart check it all
out make sure it's all there because having all those washers and all those
clips in there is pretty critical but definitely doesn't hurt to go through
and check it all while you have the engine completely apart so the assembly
process is up next some of you guys might notice that this transmission
looks a little bit different so it's actually been polished out using a
process called isotropic finishing so this is gonna make the transmission work
a whole lot smoother and there's many other benefits too so if you guys are
interested in getting your transmission done definitely go check out trick
engineering we'll get you all set up alright enough talking let's start
putting things together so the transmission gears to line them up you
just mesh these gears together well so you can see they all line up and
they're gonna slide the shafts through the bearings in the crankcase I think
it's gonna be easier to have the crankcase more upright when you're
sliding in the transmission shafts that way you don't have to hold the washers
into place and the gears don't start sliding on the shaft give this a shot
here so next up is installing the shift Forks and the shift drum so I prefer to
go piece by piece with this stuff I know some people like to line up the
transmission shafts with the forks and the drum and slide it in as a set but I
just like to go piece by piece to make sure everything is together correctly
there really is no perfect way to do it so for this step it's gonna be easiest
with the engine laying flat that way we can get at these transfer gears here and
slide the shift Forks into that position all right we've got a shift fork set
with two on the pin and then this one just has one so we're gonna take a look
at these transmission shafts and the main shaft just has one spot for a shift
work while the counter shaft has two one at the bottom and one farther up so of
course the pin with two forks is gonna go on to the counter shaft so it's
really not too complicated the fork just slides right into that little slot I
might have to pull up on the gear to get it in widened in just like that and the
pin is gonna face towards where the drum sits we're just gonna leave the pin out
of the equation for now that goes in a little bit later so we've got to shift
Forks here for the counter shaft in there March WL and for our so there's a
right in the left here the right is gonna go on the clutch side of the
engine and the left is gonna go on the flywheel side so the right is gonna be
at the bottom pop this into place here
and then the left side is going up top
and finally time to put the shift drum into position so basically they're just
gonna push the shift Forks out of the way a little bit make room for the drum
and it just slides face down into that bearing make sure you get it seated all
the way now to get the shift Forks into the drum they just pop right into those
little grooves there so once again you might have to pull up on the gear
farther down like that to get it to pop into place and then the shift pen will
slide right through those Forks to lock this whole setup into place you got to
make sure that pin goes in all the way and it's gonna be the same deal on this
side as well it's got a pull up on the gear get that pin in and then slide the
retaining pin through the fork just like that pretty simple now that I've got
everything within the cases together just gonna spin the gears and make sure
they work smoothly with each other Matt you can already tell a difference with
the isotropic finishing the gears just spin flawlessly and to go through the
gears basically how this works is when you shift the transmission the shift
drum spins and therefore moves the forks on the shafts so I'll give you a little
demonstration here you got to have the shaft spinning for it to be able to
shift as you can see as I'm spinning the transmission and shift drum
simultaneously it's moving the gears on the shaft and that's what's engaging the
different gears on the transmission so people make it out to seem like
rebuilding a transmission or a bottom end it's a lot of work and it's super
complicated but in all honesty it really is not I mean it looks like there's a
lot of gears and a lot of parts here but once you take your time and you follow a
service manual or a video like this it really isn't too bad
anyone can do it so what we've got up next is installing the dowel pins the
center case gasket these are the dowel pins right here and there's also an
opening that goes up front once we have all that in place
the left case will be ready to go on for the Dell pens I would definitely
recommend putting some anti-seize lubricant on them they are the most
common thing that rust or seized up on an engine especially the front one up
here that one always gets a bunch of water in there and it rusts and it's
really hard to split the cases at that point it's gonna apply a light coat of
anti-seize to each dowel pin here and before I slide this over Inge and the
gasket on I'm gonna put a little layer of grease on the entire gasket surface
so what this does is it helps keep the gasket into place during the assembly
and then if anything happens like I need to pull the crankcase back apart the
gasket will not be stuck and it won't rip as easily when I split those cases
back apart so you just never know when you'll have to pull those cases back
apart during the assembly process and the grease I'll be using is just this
general Maxima waterproof grease so it doesn't really take much of a layer on
there just a light dab around the whole thing so this piece up here is just to
keep the whole gasket together we'll be cutting it at a later point but right
now I'm just gonna cut it in half so that way it's not holding up this part
up top here so now I can get that gasket all the way down onto the case so what
I'm doing here is just making sure all the holes line up kind of tacking it
down to grease and one last thing I'll do here before I slide the left case on
is squirt some assembly lube on to the transmission gears and some of shifting
components to
try to get it on every gear set and then get it inside of each one of these shift
drum grooves and then go through the gears to get that assembly Lube spread
around now there's a few things I need to do this left case to get it ready to
install on the engine it's gonna squirt some assembly Lube into the bearings
grease up the gasket surface and then once again I'm gonna heat up the socket
so that way I can warm up the inner race of the bearing and that'll allow the
crank to slide right through now a left case should just slip right on but I
gotta be quick about this before that bearing cools down
okay I kind of lied here the left case isn't sliding on like I'd hoped so I'm
gonna have to bust out the Tusk crankshaft puller tool this is gonna
thread onto the end the crank and pull the crank into the left crank case or
push the left case down onto the crank whatever way you want to call it so
first we've got the adapter for the puller and then a nut that threads onto
the end the crank read this all the way down and here's the puller shaft reading
onto the crank then we've got the polar body here just slides over the whole
thing
there we go so ideally you'd like to have these bars underneath the puller
that way you have a nice flat surface to get leverage on but from the looks of it
not gonna have enough thread here so I'm just gonna have to go directly onto the
crank case like that should still work out just fine this should be pretty
self-explanatory now as I tightened down this nut it's
gonna pull up on the shaft which is connected to the crank shaft and push
down on the crank case at the same time so it's gonna bring this whole unit
together all right time to get polling on this crank as I'm tightening those
nut I got to make 100% sure that this thing is going on straight every couple
seconds I'm just gonna check the dowel pins make sure they're lining up and all
the pins and shafts as well
looks like everything is lining up so far just gonna continue crank it on this
thing
got everything pressed together seems like everything lined up really well so
first time using this tool and I'm pretty impressed seems like it worked
pretty well once again this is a tusk crankshaft puller tool and they're
available over at Rocky Mountain I'll put the link down below to where you can
pick one up super handy tool to have definitely save the day on this build
alright the cases are finely pressed together I'm gonna rearrange the engine
here on the stand and then start popping in all these case bolts
now for the case bolts I'm gonna get them all started into the threads before
I start tightening things down sometimes they'll get hung up on the gasket and
you kind of have to shift things around to get them to line up
so it's a bit of a guessing game when you're putting these bolts in you want
about 3/8 to 1/2 inch here before you start threading the bolt in the case so
that one looks about right let's find one little lower hole yep that's the
correct one now it's pretty important to try to tighten these down evenly so I'll
go up to the top give it a little tighten come down to a bottom bolt give
that a little bit of torque it's kind of work my way around in a even pattern
here the torque on these case bolts is only going to be about 6 or 7
foot-pounds so if you have a quality torque wrench that you can trust go that
route or you can just tighten by hand that's what I'll be doing here if you're
gonna be tightening these bolts by hand try to fall on the side of caution
because they do strip out pretty easily of course you want them tight but try to
be really careful with them and while I'm at it I'm gonna go ahead and install
the drain plug with a new crush washer now that we've got everything together
and tighten down just gonna go through and make sure everything spins without
any major hesitation crank feels pretty good transmission as well I'm gonna
install the piece on the end of the shift drum so that way you can go
through the gears make sure everything is functioning properly you definitely
don't want to forget this little pin that goes on the end of the shift drum
it's gonna go ahead and torque this bolt to 16 foot-pounds and then I'll be ready
to go through the gears and make sure they're all good so just like before as
I'm spinning the transmission shafts I am going to spin the shift drum as well
all right I've got some bad news guys so when they had the cases together I
noticed there was a little too much side-to-side play in the counter shaft
within the cases and things just didn't feel right and it wouldn't shift in the
neutral so I pulled things apart you can see I've got the cases split again and I
dug into this counter shaft so underneath this top gear there's
supposed to be a thrust washer sitting right here and for whatever reason it
wasn't in there got lost throughout the process or wasn't even in there from the
first place you know maybe someone tore into this engine before and never put it
in but regardless I've got to order a new one not a big deal you know be it a
couple extra days to get this thing together but those are just the type of
things you run into you during an engine build so it's not always gonna be
sunshine and roses with this stuff sometimes a little $3.00 washer will
hold things up you just never know it is part of the
deal I'm gonna show you guys why that little thrust washer is so important to
sly this gear back on so I've got it in first gear everything seems to be
spinning fine and then it'll come to a stop right there it starts binding up so
if you pull up the gear to simulate that little washer in there everything spins
together just fine there's no binding at all so I'm gonna pull this back apart
and show you the little gap there where that washer should be just gonna put the
collar and the top washer into place so you see that little amount of play there
where that washer should be that makes a world the difference in how the
transmission spins and chips it's crazy here's the thing to take away from this
if you're putting things together and you notice something isn't quite right
or there's any question whatsoever don't hesitate to pull things back apart
and double check I mean I would hate to get this thing together and realize it
doesn't shift into neutral and the transmission is binding up so always
double-check your work especially when it comes to the transmission I mean that
would be a nightmare to pull this whole bike back apart just for a stupid little
washer all right guys I'm gonna go order that little washer and there's actually
a few other things I need to order up as well and as soon as that stuff comes in
the next video will be on putting this thing back together and getting the
whole bottom end in one piece so that will include the clutch shifting
components violins theater and some other parts and pieces as well so stay
tuned for that video so you guys enjoy this one go smash that like button it
really helps me to continue to do these videos well I'll see you all in the next
one
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