I have been working since 1947.
How many times I had blisters on my fingers.
I only talk with my job
and my weaving loom.
My mum used to weave,
used to paint it black and sent to the school.
This is where the green calls home, 'Pisi'.
Today it is called 'Yeşilyurt – Greenland'.
This charming little town is ready for the summer
with the nature's peaceful harmony and liveliness.
Following the harsh winter,
the flowers bloom like inhaling their first breath
and present their colours to the people with all their generosity.
In the mean time,
green wakes up again with the sound of the wind.
It seems like the sea and sun give the soil and green their colour again.
The morning callers,
whose sound can only be heard as set alarm clocks
between the cold walls of big cities,
are happy to welcome summer.
The full moon, casts light onto the night,
gives its place to the sign of the morning.
For some in the town, morning starts at this hour.
It is not hard to see that the nature do not spare its
generosity from Yeşilyurt when you look at the town
from the hills that the whole town can be seen easily.
Yeşilyurt, that has large lands between the mountains,
is 14km away from Muğla.
The population, which is over 2000,
consists of mainly older people.
The economy in the town mainly depends on the products
that those people make.
Yeşilyurt's another name in the history has been 'Pisi' until 1961.
Pisi means 'Fish' in the Ancient Greek.
It is assumed that this name had been given to the town
after an earthquake happened during 1940's.
It is understood that, there was a river flows just under Yeşilyurt plain
and when the water came out after the
earthquake had brought fish to the surface.
The flora, companies you to the town centre,
leaves its place slowly to the old
and lonely buildings companied with the grapevines,
stone buildings and Muğla's architecture.
At the homeland of the old ballad 'Kerimoğlu',
a Muğla house with its balcony railings (called "cumba" in Turkish),
is aware of its beauty and uniqueness
and welcomes the visitors with proud.
It is rare but it is possible to come across some pieces
adopted from the constructions of an ancient city
in the old buildings inside the town
or at some common places such as a mosque wall.
It can be said that the main thing that makes Yeşilyurt
well-known in the world is weaving.
As one of the exceptional places in the world
that the weaving of silk and cotton is handmade,
we can say that the women play a more
important role in the town than men.
It is possible to see women behind the market stand one day
and see them behind the weaving loom the other.
The sign of the woman is seen every single weaving produced in Yesilyurt.
Furthermore, it is a very hard job.
Almost 10 hours is spent at the weaving loom a day.
The value of the silk weave is higher.
However, as the silk is difficult to process
and there are few families left who are in silk weaving,
it has left its place to cotton nowadays.
Moreover, the high production and sale costs
have gradually reduced the interest in silk.
However, it can be said that Karacan family is the last family left
who does silk weaving in order to support themselves.
The other women of the town sometimes help
and sometimes work for this family.
The hardest job is done in the town happens in Karacan family's house.
The most of the looms are also left in this house.
Not the voice of the children
but the sound of the weaving looms breaks the silence of the morning.
After we buy the first class 100% cotton yarn,
we start the first step of the application of these yarns,
which is called "haşılama".
We add the flour, which we had melted before,
in the boiling water and boil it for a while.
After it is done we pour it on
the yarns that we had slightly cooled before.
After this, yarns should stay in that water for about 1.5 - 2 hours.
The yarn should absorb that mix properly,
thus it does not cause any problem to us during the weaving.
Later, we squeeze the water out of the yarns
and take out from the plastic basins.
We dry them somewhere not gets extreme sunlight.
After getting them dried, we carry the yarns over the bobbins.
Later the bobbins, if the model we prepare has an order in colour,
we hang our yarns on the setup (or mechanism).
The length could be 50 meters or 100 meters,
the amount we use to build the setup depends on us.
Later, we turn the yarns into balls. Then,
we add the yarns each other with the rake we prepared,
hence it keeps on going on the loom.
After that is done, we put it on the loom.
Finally, the yarns become ready to be weaved.
Then, we start weaving yarn
according to its shape and colour.
The story about why the people in the town turn to weaving
is as interesting as the story of weaving the silk itself.
Today, the oldest person in the weaving cotton business in Yeşilyurt
and in Karacan family is Nurten Aslan
who is 75 years old
Aunty Nurten,
who is one of the names that help Yeşilyurt to be talked about
with one of the most expensive movie in the world,
dedicated 65 years of her life to the weaving.
Nurcan Karacan was able to support her family
with the things she has learnt while sitting at the weaving
loom where she sat in front for the first time at age 20.
She has never given up weaving despite the
business has gone badly from time to time.
Moreover, she prepared lot of girls' dowry with her hands.
I have started weaving when I was 20.
We have done all the types from silk to yarn.
The best job is the weaving.
It helps you feed yourself, fill in your trunk,
prepare your dowry,
I said, "I better keep on going this"
Later, I have weaved thousand of girls' dowry.
I have weaved their silk, weaved their tablecloth,
their bed sheets, their motherhood, fatherhood shirts.
I said "never ever get in fighting because
you are missing something.
I said I have prepared lot of them but you carry on with the new comers.
Eventually, this year we have traded off the business.
I have handed over it to my siblings.
I support them when there is something missing.
In Yeşilyurt, the years when the weaving started,
actually is the time that another source of income started to expire.
The story of the weaving,
which has extended from Yeşilyurt to abroad,
has started with a changing in the pricing policy
related to the tobacco business
which was the main source of income before.
The pricing has started to be decided according to the quality
instead of the efficiency.
In 1986, the people from Yeşilyurt
who had to start a search for a solution,
as the tobacco produced in Yeşilyurt has class B quality,
have stepped into a new beginning with the weaving business.
Initially, the process started with an exhibition of small size weavings
that were produced by the women
who had trained in the Occupational Training Courses
provided by The Government Training Institute.
In 1992, with the effort of the first female governor of that time,
Lale Aytaman, this process has turned into a government
supported women project
that leaded a very important development that opens
Yeşilyurt to Europe in later years.
Zeynep Karacan
is one of the most important people carry Yeşilyurt weaving
into this point and her father did not want her to be educated.
She has given her first test against men.
After the exhibition,
our first female governor said that we have to
take this business serious from now on.
She said "work this as a project and bring it to me
then I get it approved by the ministry".
We came back to the village with our mayor,
Mehmet Güner. 3 of us have sat down,
the municipal police officer,
Şeref was also with us.
He was the only person who knows how to use the
typewriter because he was a high school graduate.
We all have sat together,
gone through every single detail,
and written down all of it in a night.
We took it to the governor the next day,
she found it very good,
and she said that she was not expecting
any projects in a day but apparently she said,
we have already been ready for this.
We have sent it through
and our training centre was opened very soon after.
In Yeşilyurt which headed towards weaving
because of the politics followed in tobacco business,
the training centre that was opened with the support
provided by Muğla Governor Lale Aytaman,
has changed the village's faith.
Many people in the village from 7 to 70 year of age
attended in the training centre just after it was opened.
On the other hand, especially the people who are in tobacco business,
as the workforce is split,
reacted to the fact that the fabrics place in almost all the chests
in houses of people from Yeşilyurt
turning into a project supported by the government
and having positive indications about the future.
Women, who attended in the training centre
and do not care this reaction,
have actually changed Yeşilyurt's faith.
Sebahat Hanım
has also joined as a student of Zeynep Karacan
who is one of the names that help
opening of the training centre in the village.
Instead of me teaching my daughter,
I have learned from my daughter.
Earlier we used to do with my mum.
I have joined my daughter and my sister's
training centre after they opened it and
I supplemented my knowledge there.
Later we have kept doing this job.
We bought our house.
We keep our business in this house all together with my family,
my older sisters and my neighbours.
However, Zeynep Karacan's biggest support has come from Nurten Hanım.
A frantic process has started
from the establishment of the looms to production.
This process started to have its rewards
in the first exhibition opened after the training.
The names who attended in the exhibition became
the first indicators of the point that Yeşilyurt would achieve in weaving
The fabric we produce has also a special aspect
more than creating employment.
In reality, we produce crimp fabric as original
and as the same way as it was
produce for so many years ago.
We have only altered the models a bit.
We have made tablecloth and dress for instance
but we did not touch the material.
That is why our local fabric is very special fabric.
We have created a year end exhibition,
where we have displayed all the products we had
produced as part of our work that had started as a Women Project.
The exhibition is located in
one of the nicest areas under the plane trees,
which belongs to municipality.
Earlier in that building we had created another exhibition
that we have displayed those local crimp fabrics
that our masters had produced.
Of course, the exhibition was opened with the great support
came from our governor Ms Lale.
Although we have opened this exhibition here in Maşat,
which is an area in Muğla's Yeşilyurt distinct,
we had international visitors apart from our local visitors.
Ümit Boyner was also one of our visitors.
As we did not expect that,
the visitors who may come to the exhibition
would be so interested and so high level,
we were surprised.
The exhibition started to expand beyond the town,
later beyond the country.
Although, the Netherlands showed interest in silk
and cotton weaving,
the homeland of the weaving has always been Yeşilyurt
for Zeynep Karacan.
We have continued to promote our
work after we finished the exhibition.
We received invitations from many national expos.
We have attended to the expos held in the cities such as
İstanbul, Ankara and İzmir.
Our promotion has been done very well.
Finally, orders started to be made.
We have even opened to abroad. It was really good for us.
We went to Netherland, France and Canada with our fabrics and
weaving looms.
We have attended to the Turkish festivals there.
We have been presenting our country,
which was a very good thing to do.
We could introduce our fabric,
at the same time we could reach people out there.
The most important occasion we have ever been
in was the one in Netherland.
I was invited to that occasion where there were only
ten business men and some young entrepreneurs.
I was there as a young female entrepreneur.
A university committee search for the business
opportunities for the women live in Netherlands
wanted us to open up a training centre there.
In order to provide job for the Turkish women there.
However, our main purpose,
it was of course a very good offer,
but our main purpose was Yeşilyurt first.
Because when I started first then Muğla mayor
also asked me to open a training centre in the city
centre of Muğla but I said no,
I said I am from Yeşilyurt and I was going to do it there.
And we have decided to do it here all together.
Our purpose was to create job for women in Yeşilyurt
and to market their products.
It was good to receive such offer but making that decision was also good
You have forgotten me
Yes, I am alone, and a little bit tired...
I have no other friends except those hands holding my body...
I am quiet;
I have a heavy burden...
However, I have not become silent eternally,
even if I got older,
I've still got things to say
I knit years with suffering that I lived
I hold on all the work I start
like a caterpiller's tender hurry.
I hold on to it from one side.
Even so, You have forgotten me…
The proudest moment for Karacan family
is when they see the vest they have made by crimped fabric
was worn by a historical character,
who once was a reason of a war.
Moreover, the fame of the crimped fabric
has not stopped expending there.
Our 100% silk fabric's journey to Hollywood has happened like this.
The client showed up and said they need such amount of fabric.
We will use this in a movie but you will
tell this to no one until we tell you to do so.
We said OK. They have taken the fabric away.
1 year has passed.
Then we received a phone call.
That lady told us that we can talk about it now.
She said that they have sewn and used those fabrics
for Helen's outfit during Troy War.
The movie was released.
It came to the theatre in Muğla and I went to see it.
I wanted to see what happen to the fabric.
I was angry that the fabric sent over there was
on this woman in that movie for a very short scene.
It was a very good model and a good presentation but
unfortunately it was on her for a very short time.
Actually the fabric we produce was used in other movies before Troy.
Because even in the earlier years of Troy,
people used to buy fabric from us.
They have said that the pyjamas that Harry Potter
wears and some costumes in the Worrier movie
were made by our fabric.
We have thought that our fabric is important
as we keep producing it with the same originality as those ages.
Moreover, we were told that the fabric
pieces that were found in one Karia princess's
burial were exactly the same with the ones
we produce at the moment.
Governor wanted to use our fabric to prepare a dress
for the mummy that was put in the museum.
We have sent it and they made a dress
according to those ages.
That fabric was also our fabric.
In reality, even if they do not realise it,
the weaving was so important for Yeşilyurt people
who have it in their hands all the time during their daily life.
Some local people say they have these silks
and crimp fabrics in their trunk.
They used to criticise and ask why we still produce those old fabrics,
they have passed their time.
It actually made me happy to see those people say
things like that and show off with the fabric they have in their trunks.
Henceforth, they adopted this.
Out fabric has become important.
It has always been important for us anyway but people's
seeing it as important was also very good.
All those developments has inspired the youth in the town as well.
When I wanted to do this job,
my mum used to do it and I used to unstitch
the things that need to be unstitched.
I was curious and my mum taught me.
Later, I have also learned and now I can take I will take.
I help my mum and dad.
I love doing this job very much.
I also like to make brighter and mottled colours.
I have a sibling. I am thinking teaching her.
Silk weaving,
that had played an important role in Yeşilyurt's economy
and in fact, changed the Yeşilyurt people's life
because of the tobacco politics,
is having difficult times these days.
Silk weaving has high price because of the high labour
which has created reduction in the preference
and therefore it was replaced by mainly cotton weaving.
With the addition of the technology,
the number of weaving looms started to decrease.
The most upsetting thing for the people from Yeşilyurt
is the forgotten values.
Although the women try to hold onto it,
today Yeşilyurt weaving is struggling against the technology
and the forgotten values.
The products we make are very important and valuable.
Every single product is important for us like bread.
We also care about it a lot.
Every single wire, every single knot actually has a story.
Producing something,
raising things like a child is very good.
This is the place, where the green calls home, Pisi.
Today it is called 'Yeşilyurt – Greenland'.
All those looms and weavings come to life
by the human hands struggle to survive in a very fragile state.
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