9 months ago I started this Youtube channel.
Not even 3 months later I already reached 1000 subscribers.
Now, just a couple of days ago I finally reached another big milestone: 10 000 subscribers.
That is so awesome!
Guten Tag everybody, I'm Stefan and welcome to CNC kitchen!
I just looked it up and found out that I actually joined Youtube 11 years ago and until the
beginning of this year I actually was only a passive viewer.
I had already been playing with the idea of making my own videos for quite a while but
did actually not really have the guts and the gear to do them properly.
I wasn't really sure what to expect at first and I guess if my first video would have flopped
I don't know if I would have continued.
But now, 9 months later I have already gathered a crowd of people around me which is almost
half the number of people that live in my hometown.
This is amazing and everything thanks to you out there!
Thank you so much!
Well, it's kind of sad, but since 100 000 subscribers is still a far way to go I made
myself another Youtube Play button.
My 1000 subscribers reward was a wooden button, the 100,000 play button will be silber so
I thought copper would be the way to go.
If you stick with me today, then I'll show you three cool things.
First: how you can copperplate your 3D prints second: how you can add a patina on any copper
parts and third: how you can use your 3D printer to create high contrast prints on paper.
But before I start with that I would like to thank you in a form of a small giveaway.
The guys from Formfutura, who also helped me with my previous 3D printed coffee maker
video, were so kind to provide 3 rolls of their ReForm filament series one for each
of the lucky winners.
The materials from the ReForm series are all recycled and upcycled filaments which are
made from residual extrusion waste but still retain the same properties as their standard
filaments.
If you'd like to win one of these materials than follow the link below.
There are some things happening on the channel.
I would like to release more videos, but the whole process just takes so much time for
me, that I'm currently not able to release one video a week.
During my holiday I have finally finished my impact testing machine which I will be
using to continue with my technical filament reviews soon!
I also got a new 5.5W diode laser which I will need to assemble and make some cool things
with it.
So stay tuned for that and even more!
So, in order to make my play button reward I had to do three things: Design and print
a play button which I then had to copper plate.
Figure out a way to dual color print on a piece of cardboard and then build a simple
frame to hold everything.
Since I already designed a play button for my 1000 subscribers special, where I CNCd
it from wood, I used the existing model and printed it in regular PLA on my Prusa.
I used a layer height of only 0.05mm to reduce the staircase effect as much as possible.
The print takes longer that way but it will save me a lot of time during the sanding process.
I printed it on its back which is not ideal for getting a smooth top layer.
I did consider printing it in two halfs and then gluing it together, but this would have
required a ton of sanding to get the interface totally smooth.
After the print was finished I sprayed the part a couple of times with filler and then
wet sanded it until I was happy with the result.
Then comes the electroplating process which I had already been researching for quite a
while.
The reason why I didn't just print it in a copper filled material was that you cannot
polish them to a perfect shine and this was what I was going for at first.
In order to electroplate a part, it needs to be conductive.
In the best case you'd spray it with silver lacquer.
Since I did not have any silver paint, I tried some other things.
Graphite spray didn't work unfortunately so I tried zink spray which is usually used
for corrosion protection.
The interesting thing was that the coating wasn't conductive at first, but as soon
as I dipped it into the copper electrolyte it created a copper coating even without the
electricity hooked up.
This conductive layer can then be used to proceed with the normal electroplating process.
You can buy a copper electrolyte or you can easily make it on your own.
For half a liter, I used 410ml of distilled water and added 90ml of battery acid which
actually is 37% sulfuric acid.
Then I added 100g of blue copper sulfate and a pinch of regular table salt.
This recipe would already work but it would produce big copper crystals which would scatter
the light and therefore cause a matte surface finish.
That's why I added a brightening agent.
This will result in only very tiny copper crystals forming on your part, so you will
be getting a shiny surface right out of the bath.
If you do this on your own, then please wear proper safety equipment and no not discard
the copper sulfate solution in the sink, because it's very toxic to microorganisms.
Before coating the play button with zink spray I added a piece of wire to the back, that
I can use to connect the part to my bench power supply.
I used a sheet of copper as an electrode in the bath which I connected to the positive
pole of my bench power supply.
The part gets connected to the negative side.
Now it's actually very important to set voltage and current properly.
For copperplating you usually use 2 to 5 amps of current per square decimeter of surface
to plate, which should result in a voltage of less than 2V.
It's quite important to make sure that the voltage does not get too high, because if
hydrogen bubbles form on your part it would ruin the surface finish.
A thin coat of copper is formed quite quickly.
Just make sure that you move your part from time to time to get rid of any bubbles.
The longer you will keep it in the electrolyte the thicker the copper layer will become.
I left it in the blue solution for roughly an hour which left me with a coating which
I thought was thick enough for polishing.
Unfortunately, the play button did not get perfect and still showed some matt parts on
the lower side.
I guess that at this location some bubbles gathered and therefore ruined the surface
finish.
I took the part out of the bath, rinsed it and used some very fine sandpaper to smoothen
the rough areas and then started polishing it.
Unfortunately, I think I was a little too thorough during that process and the material
got too warm.
So, the copper film started to release in some areas which was very unfortunate.
Well, if you don't look too closely then you probably don't even notice it.
So that's done.
This technique can actually not only be used for a nice look, it can also serve even technical
purposes.
You can use this to 3D print complex antennas or shield your sensitive electronics.
You can even use this to strengthen and stiffen your parts because copper is around 50 times
stiffer than the usual plastics, so even a thin layer will make your part way stronger!
Since I actually made two play buttons I created a blue patina on one of the two.
The process is pretty simple and works with any copper part, actually even with copper
filled 3D prints.
You just put your part on a napkin into a box with a lid.
Then you spray it with ammonia solution and sprinkle some table salt all over it.
After a couple of hours, you'll get a beautiful patina on your part.
So, what do you think, shall I rather use my screwed up polished play button or the
one with the patina?
Next, I had to create the text which goes below the play button.
Since regular inkjet and laser printers cannot print white and I didn't want to make myself
a silkscreen, I decided to try out printing on the piece of paper with my 3D printer.
I created the text and the YouTube logo in CAD and saved everything as an STL.
Since the logo has a red background I actually had to save it as two parts, because the play
button needs to be printed with a different filament.
I created two GCode files in Slic3r and made sure that I used high z-lifts, so that the
nozzle does not crash in any existing letters.
I added a z-offset to compensate for the thickness of the cardboard and reduced the speeds quite
a bit to get a smooth print.
Since mesh bed leveling would be affected by the cardboard, I removed that command from
my start script and manually started the procedure before the print when there was still no paper
applied.
I taped the cardboard to the printbed of my Prusa and then started with printing the red
logo, switched the filament to white and printed the rest.
I'm not 100% satisfied with the result, because due to my really uneven printbed which
can't even be properly compensated with mesh bed leveling, some letters are really
squished out.
Still I think it really looks nice!
The frame is just made from some 20 by 20mm wood bar which I glued together and painted
with some black spray paint.
I added a small stud with a thread on the back of the play button, screwed everything
together and here we go.
My 10000 subscriber copper play button!
Thanks again to everyone who subscribed and supported me along the way.
If you haven't subscribed yet, then please do and don't miss any upcoming videos and
projects.
Hit the like button if you enjoyed the video, that really helps a lot!
Thanks for watching, auf wiedersehen and I'll see you next time!
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