of course every engine build starts at the cases somebody get these Co 250
cases ready to go back together by popping out the old bearings as studs
shining up the cases and cleaning up the gasket surfaces the majority of these
bearings can be removed by heating them up and knocking them out from the
opposite side however with a bearing like this where there's no access from
the other side that will have to be removed with a blind bearing polar and
then a few of these bearings have retainers holding them in a place so I'm
gonna have to remove the screws and bolts holding them on most of the time
these bolts and screws are gonna be locked headed so I'm not gonna even
bother trying to get them out without heating them up first now for the
Phillips screws the head strip out really easily so I'm not gonna take any
chances with them just going to go straight ahead and use the impact
screwdriver I'll have this tool link down in the
description I tell you what guys these screwdrivers work without fail 100% of
the time super super handy to have all right I've
got a few seals to pop out and then I'm gonna heat up the bearings and knock
them out of the case
all right got a socket that fits just inside the hole on the case here and I
should be able to give it a whack and the bearing will fall out I'm gonna go
ahead and give the case some more heat here and the reason why heat works in
the situation is because the case is aluminum the bearing is steel and
aluminum expands at a quicker rate then steel does and so why this works is when
the case is heated up the bearing will have more room to slide out I don't know
if you guys caught that or not but when I flipped the case over this bearing
just fell right out I really wanted to show you guys that blind bearing polar
but I might need to use it on this needle bearing here so I'm gonna try the
same thing on the needle bearing here heat it up flip the case over and
hopefully it falls out
no such luck using that method so on to the blind bearing polar it is hopefully
I have one that's big enough basically how this polar works is as always
tightening those two pieces against each other it expanded down inside the
bearing so I've got a firm grasp on the bearing as soon as I thread in the slide
hammer to the polar I'll build the yank that bearing right out pretty dang slick
if you ask me works awesome on wheel bearings linkage bearings case bearings
you name it it's got pretty much every size you'd ever need I'll link this tool
down below as well the last thing to pull off this case are the cylinder
studs never hurts to go ahead and replace those to remove them I'll be
using the double nut technique sounds dirty but I promise it isn't all those
be walking to nuts against each other on the stud and that will enable me to
thread the stud out of the case
now I've got this case completely bare just gonna follow the same steps with
the other case
now for the inner clutch cover I'm just got a few seals and a bearing to pull
out all right the cases are completely bare at this point and I've got my work
area all cleaned up the next step is gonna be shining these things up I'm
gonna start out by putting the scotch-brite wheel on the buffer and
knock it out as much as I can with that and then I'll move on to the dremel tool
and I've got a couple attachments here some scotch-brite wheels and a few brass
wire attachments as well I want you guys to take a good look at the cases right
now how dull and plain looking they are in a few minutes I'll have them looking
so much better
man this scotch-brite wheel is really working some magic on the crank case
however there's still a lot of rock chips and pitting on the bottom side so
I'm gonna try the more aggressive scotch brite wheel and see if I can smooth some
of that out
that is simply mind-blowing it's like a brand-new crankcase all over again I'm
gonna pop the other scotch-brite wheel back on and smooth this thing out even
more
alright that's about as far as I can get with the scotch brite wheel on the
buffer now if only I can get the rest of the crankcase looking this good I'd be
stoked as you can see I can't really do much in these tighter areas with the
scotch brite wheel on the buffer so I'm gonna bust out the dremel tool with the
brass wire cup and I'm really really hoping I can get that same type of
finish
so the brass wire attachments bore down pretty quickly so I'm going to give this
Scott's part wheel a try now
the scotch-brite wheel seemed to work okay just wore down super quickly so I'm
pretty happy with how the brass attachments worked but the only thing is
they left like a brass color on the finish so I've been trying the regular
wire wheels here I got a straight one and a cup as well and these seem to be
the ticket for getting a similar finish to what I got with the scotch-brite
wheel and a buffer without the brass color
all right I've got the left case all shined up and this is what it looks like
compared to the right case pretty dramatic difference so I use a
combination of the wire and scotch-brite wheels not really a big fan of these
brass wheels they just left kind of a brass look to it and the regular wire
wheels seem to work a lot better keep in mind if you're gonna be using these
scotch-brite wheels have a lot on hand they wear out pretty quickly you guys
enjoyed watching the videos I would appreciate it if you go show some
support head over to primum XCOM pick up a t-shirt a hat stickers I also have the
scotch-brite wheels shown in this video over there as well without your support
I wouldn't be able to make helpful and informative videos like this now it's on
to getting the right crankcase and inner clutch cover look it's sweet too and by
the way I'll have all the supplies used throughout the video linked down in the
description
I am pretty happy with how these things cleaned up now to touch up the gasket
surfaces I'll be using a sanding block with 320 grit sandpaper just gonna go
super light with the pressure don't want to take off too much material here like
I said I'm gonna go really light with the pressure and I'm gonna try to keep
the sanding block moving around the case don't want to spend too much time
focused on one spot since that will make it uneven and then for something like
the cylinder base gasket surface I'm gonna bolt the cases together that way
it's easier to sand and I can get a nice even finish on the whole surface these
gasket surfaces should be plenty flushed now last thing to do is the clean up all
the junk from sanding and what was left behind the bearings as well
I always appreciate y'all taking the time to watch through the video and
don't forget all the supplies used throughout the video are linked down
below I will see you guys later


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