today we're gonna make two very similar shoe benches two different ways one is
hardwood and the other is gonna be made of half-inch plywood I want to call them
the hard way and the easy way but I don't really know how accurate that is
the hard one definitely requires more tools and more complex cuts but the easy
one probably requires more thinking ahead and planning semantics aside let's
get to work both of these projects started out at Reel Lumber just like
pretty much every other project does getting my materials so I suppose the
easy way here would be just grabbing some plywood I'm gonna be using
half-inch Baltic birch and one sheet will be more than enough for a project
like this and the hard way would be grabbing some hard wood so picking out
boards that work for your project probably needing to calculate your
materials beforehand a bit and all that good stuff in fact this is a question
that I get asked a lot so I'm gonna make a highlighted story on my Instagram page
that goes a little bit into my lumber buying history and recommendations so I
won't take up any more time here but if you're interested in learning more about
it check it out over there
so back in the shop I could get to work I started out by assessing my materials
to figure out the most efficient way to use it and then I started milling first
I needed to get one of the phases nice and flat on my jointer
and you guys have seen me do this in plenty of different videos but I think
it actually came off better on camera here than normal so I'm gonna pause the
video for a second and you can see what I'm trying to achieve so you see how the
material is curved well you want to run the pieces where that concave faces down
and the first couple of passes should only be removing material from the ends
let's back up and watch it again
so when you're doing this you don't want to push down you want to let the bend
kind of naturally remove itself and you'll know that you're good when the
jointer is cutting across the entire length of the board once that was done I
turned my piece on edge and jointed one of the sides and then I could take
everything over to the planer and mill it to a finished thickness of one inch
with the plywood version we're gonna be doing almost exactly the opposite the
material comes at a perfect even thickness so there's no need to mill but
we actually need to make the pieces thicker in this case just like with the
hardwood version we're gonna be using one-inch thick pieces and the plywood is
1/2 of an inch so we'll rip out a bunch of strips some are gonna be one inch
wide some are two inches wide those will be for the legs and some will be about
three inches wide at this point but they'll get trimmed down later and
they'll make the leg stretchers and we're gonna laminate all of these
together to make a bunch of pieces that are an inch thick
for the hardwood in terms of ripping we're doing almost the exact same thing
cutting out a bunch of one-inch wide strips for the slots 2 inch wide strips
for the legs and slightly wider strips that will be trimmed down later for the
stretchers on the leg
so with all of our pieces cut to width and thickness next we could start
refining I'm gonna start with my legs by cross-cutting my two pieces into four
and then setting this Rockler crosscut sled to 15 degrees and using a stop
block to create four identical legs that'll all lean in at 15 degrees
okay back to the plywood bench this is where this one's gonna temporarily jump
a heading complexity for a minute while we make the legs so I'm gonna
start pretty much the same way as we did with the hardwood version cutting out
four legs that are angled in at 15 degrees but to build up the joinery I
needed to create a bunch of short pieces to laminate them on and this will
probably be easier to explain with a quick animation so we have our four
equal pieces this is just one of them onto the bottom we're gonna laminate one
short piece then we'll use a spacer piece to laminate on a middle piece and
that's going to leave us with the dado that our stretcher will sit in
eventually and that's what the slats are gonna sit on top of then on top of the
middle piece we'll do the same thing before laminating on a top piece and
that'll complete the leg back in the real world to make this go quicker
I'm just using glue and a finish nailer to hold everything together so if you
wanted to make it a little cleaner or avoid having to fill nail holes you
could just use glue and then clamp them
while we're here let's also cut out stretcher pieces and to do that we're
going to tilt our blade to 15 degrees and make a series of rips so that we end
up with a stretcher piece shaped like a parallelogram and then we can cross cut
4 of them to equal length and assemble the leg pieces
and by now we've sort of leapfrog to the hardwood version so let's jump back
there and play catch-up and here we'll actually start by setting our blade to
15 degrees to make those parallelogram stretchers again and then in this shot
you can see a little bit more detail about how to make them perfectly sized
which is actually pretty easy you just make your first cut on one edge and then
use your leg piece to strike the line where the second cut should be to match
the width and then make the cut
next I use my stretcher piece to mark out where I need to cut some dedos into
my leg pieces and then I transferred those marks onto all four legs and once
everything was marked out I used my table saw to make the dedos with several
passes stopping as I got close to the limit to check the fit until it was just
right and on these cuts the thing that you want to be careful of is making sure
that you realize that two of the legs need to be mirrored versions of the
other two so you'll tilt your miter gauge 15 degrees one way for two of them
and then 15 degrees the other way for the other two and if you do it right you
should end up with eight perfectly sized a toes that are really strong
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with our leg assemblies done we could finalize our slots which will basically
involve cutting them to length and cutting in some joinery and actually
regret doing it the way that I did so I'm gonna go over it and then show you
what I should have done to make my life easier and what I would recommend you do
for the joinery I left my blade tilted to 15 degrees and again made a series of
passes to create a little dado that would fit over the stretcher of the leg
and this is where I wish that I had done something different basically I wish
that instead of putting the dado in the slat piece I'd put it in the stretcher
piece and in case you're having trouble visualizing this there's a little
animation that shows you what I mean so this is how I did it and this is how I
wish that I had done it the main reason is it would just be way easier to cut
because you wouldn't have to tilt the blade to make the dado and the geometry
of it all would be a lot easier to solve so there's less chances for mistake you
could actually make the case that the way that I did it is a superior joint
because it's creating a physical lock that holds the stretchers in relation to
one another but honestly this piece isn't going to be subjected to a whole
lot of stress and I trust that the glues more than enough for this application
anyhow regrets aside after I glued on the bottom slats I took more
measurements for the top slots cut in the joinery and then I could assemble
everything
right back to the easy version here again I'm gonna cut the slots to length
by putting a 15 degree angle on either end and then I'm gonna assemble
everything here with no joinery just glue and actually to support my feeling
that the joinery I used on the hardwood version was overly complex I've had this
plywood version for about a year now and the glue still holding no problem so
whether you decide to build this one the easy way or the hard way the good news
is no matter what finishing is gonna be simple at least a few simple finish all
right full disclosure so this is the finish that Mike Montgomery from modern
builds venue ADA from homemade modern and I have been developing together and
honestly I couldn't be happier with it it gives a really good result it's all
natural and best of all it's super simple to apply and basically foolproof
you just wipe it on let the oil penetrate for about 20 minutes
wipe on another coat let it absorb again for about 20 minutes and then wipe off
the excess that hasn't absorbed into the wood the oil penetrates and hardens and
leaves a smooth backstop coat for extra protection so I'll admit that I'm biased
since its kind of my baby but I really do think that you'll love it as much as
I do and also if you have used it comment and tell me what you think about
it we're always looking to improve and we want and need honest feedback from as
many people as we can get
all right so there it is two ways to build a shoe bench I'm still not sure
that the easy way in the hard way are the most accurate ways to describe them
I would say that the hardwood version is slightly more advanced in terms of
actually fabricating all the pieces but it actually might be a little bit more
simple conceptually I don't know who's this an easy hard simple complex
advanced they're all just adjectives each is subjective to an individual's
talents and situations as the next maybe I should just call them my way or the
ply way I'll show myself out special thanks to Brandon Savage David Klieman
and the rest of my patreon supporters for making these videos possible you all
are the number one thing that keeps this show going
simply put I couldn't do it without you and every little bit makes a huge
difference so for everything that you've given me thank you seriously and if you
want to support the show to check out the patreon link in the description see
if it's right for you and as always no pressure
alright see in the next one
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