[theme music].
>We've had a lot of viewers express interest
in learning more about our Gunwerks Long Range
Shooting Systems and the G7 ballistic compensation,
products, and methodologies that we use
to shoot long range on our show.
We're gonna take just a few minutes to start off
with some fundamentals about long range shooting.
We're gonna talk about ballistics and how that
applies to compensating for long range.
Let's start with a basic rifle's trajectory and
we're gonna look at the drop that a rifle has over
your target range, let's say out to 1,000 yards.
Now that trajectory is based on a few parameters;
ballistic co-efficient, muzzle velocity, and air
density.
We're gonna use altitude and temperature to
represent our air density.
Now your ballistic co-efficient, or BC, comes
from the bullet manufacturer.
They're gonna build a bullet that has some
caliber, length, shape, and even the weight of the
bullet's incorporated into that ballistic
co-efficient.
Now the muzzle velocity number comes from your
cartridge, which could be the cartridge case size,
you know, ultra mag or standard magnum or just
like a 65-284, you know, kind of a standard case
size.
That case size plus the chamber, bore tolerances,
and barrel length is gonna dictate what your muzzle
velocity ends up looking like.
You can measure that with a chronograph within some
degree of certainty.
We're gonna show you a technique to find
precisely what that profile looks like.
Now we've got this trajectory and this
trajectory can change based on any of those
parameters.
Let's say you have an air density change, it's more
dense, and take a look at how that affects your
altitude or temperature.
Lower altitude or lower temperature is more dense
air.
And when the air is more dense the bullet isn't as
efficient flying through the air, and so we see
that your trajectory is shorter or you would hit
low on the target.
You also retain less velocity.
Or if we increase the ballistic co-efficient,
let's say, and the ballistic co-efficient is
up, now our trajectory is flatter.
Or even more, we can increase our muzzle
velocity and really get a flatter trajectory.
Now, that's some of the parameters that make up
that ballistic profile and we need to talk about how
that applies to our ballistic compensation.
Essentially we've got a calculated trajectory now
that we've researched the muzzle velocity with a
chronograph or out of a reloading manual and we've
got the bullet manufacturers BC, we can
set that up for some air density configuration and
then go out to the field and shoot it and we find
that the actual field shooting results is
slightly different than that calculated profile.
Now this is a big difference and this is
probably the significant step in setting up a long
range shooting system.
You have to be able to calculate the exact
ballistic solution at any point if you're gonna
compensate and shoot for that point.
So if we've got a variation here, we need to
fix it.
We're gonna do a simple trajectory validation and
that's gonna change that calculated trajectory to
match the field results.
And you can do that by manipulating the muzzle
velocity slightly or the ballistic co-efficient.
I'm gonna choose to do the muzzle velocity because
I'm not that confident that my chronograph
measures completely accurate.
So in this case we've changed the muzzle
velocity to match.
Now I have a true ballistic profile, that's
what we call it anyways, this allows us to plug
those parameters into any ballistics program and
calculate our exact trajectory.
That's the fundamental step in shooting long
range, 'cause now for any range, any target,
incline, air density configuration I can
calculate my ballistic solution.
Now we need to know how to apply that ballistic
solution in the field to our shooting equipment.
So let's look at our rifle right here and then let's
look at our riflescope on top.
That riflescope is your aiming tool.
Basically you've got line of sight to your target
and we're gonna elevate the barrel on the rifle
until the bullet drops in and hits our target
properly for height.
Now one way to do that is to use a reticle system
and just hold that barrel higher and higher and
higher by holding the different stadia.
Or we can use a turret system and tile that
elevation turret on the scope and change the angle
between your line of sight and your rifle barrel.
That's the system that we usually prefer to
compensate for elevation and, conversely, we
usually hold left and right with our reticle for
compensating for wind just because it's such a
variable factor.
Now those two mechanisms work together pretty well.
We've got a calculated trajectory and we've got
these adjustments.
There's a couple more tools that we can use that
makes it easier to keep track of those numbers in
the field and also to calculate real-time
solutions.
The first is a G7 ballistic turret.
Now this turret has numbers on it that
represent the range to your target, the yardage
range to your target, and you just dial that range.
Or you've got the G7 range finder.
Now this device is pretty cool because it measures
your air density, measures your incline, and then
calculates a real-time ballistic solution based
on your muzzle velocity and your ballistic
co-efficient that make up that true ballistic
profile and it will calculate a real ballistic
solution either in minutes of angle, which is just
the angular amount that your scope turret dials or
it'll do it in a shoot-to range, like a BDC turret
where it's calibrated in yards like the Gunwerks G7
ballistic turret.
Now that's the G7 ballistic compensation
method in a nutshell.
We'll start with a ballistic profile that is
a true ballistic profile based on real shooting
results.
It's been validated and compared against actual
shooting.
And then we'll use the G7 ballistic turret and the
G7 BR2 rangefinder to calculate real-time
solutions in the field for different air densities or
different inclines and apply that with the G7
ballistic turret to make a simple elevation
adjustment to our rifle.
It's a very simple system but it has some very
complex backgrounds and some very simple but
necessary steps to get the information required.
>Hey, we've just got one of our LR-1000s out of the
box.
On top of it we've got one of our new G7 Night Force
scopes with one of our etched ballistic turrets
to match this rifle's trajectory, and then we've
got our G7 BR2 rangefinder.
Now these three things combined make one of the
easiest, most usable long range weapons available
right now.
It's as easy as getting it out of the box, getting it
to the range, rangefinding a certain target, dialling
your yardage and pulling the trigger.
Now this rangefinder comes into play big time because
what it's going to do is allow you to make some
real-time corrections out in the field to get a
firing solution that's gonna match for that
specific temperature and elevation and incline.
How we're gonna do that is we're going to input some
ballistic information off of our turret into this
rangefinder.
We can do that for you at the shop.
It's easy to do.
And once that's done this rangefinder is a perfect
match with this rifle.
There's two ways that we can have that output for
us and to use this system.
One, we can have it output in a corrected range based
on our turret.
Or two, we can have it output an MOA.
Our favorite way is with the BDC turret.
Now once we have this information programmed
into our turret, we're gonna range that object,
and it's gonna give us a line of sight range, okay?
We're gonna wait one second and it's gonna tell
us exactly what to dial our turret to.
So it's compensating for us.
It's making that real-time calculation and it's
giving us a shoot-to range based on our turret.
That object might be 900 yards away but because
we've got this particular turret on, it might tell
us to dial something completely different,
let's say 800 yards.
So it's giving us that real-time correction based
on our setup.
It's easy.
You just, one button push, get the range, dial your
turret to that range, and get ready to pull the
trigger.
You know, if you need to hold for some wind, we've
got a mechanism in here that allows us to hold
over on the reticle for a certain amount of wind.
The other way that we can have this rangefinder
output for us is in MOA.
Now our new G7 turrets, you look, they have the
MOA printed right on the bottom.
For guys that want to practice at some super
long ranges and they want to shoot past their
turret, that's available now.
Instead of running your handheld, we see these
shows on TV and different scenarios where guys are
taking all this environmental properties,
inputting them into their calculator and coming up
with the firing solution, we've eliminated the need
for all those gadgets.
We've put that right into the rangefinder.
We can range a target at, let's say, 1300 yards; it
will give us that MOA output to dial to.
So that's where those MOA numbers are gonna come
into play.
We've got 1 through 20 on the bottom, so if we need
to dial 30, you'd go around once and then 10
more, that would be 30.
So our rangefinder is going to output for our
BDC turret, our bullet drop compensating turret,
or it's going to output in an MOA firing solution to
shoot past our turret if we need to.
So those are the two ways we use it.
The BDC mode is probably the most convenient when
you're hunting and things are happening fast, all
you want to do is push a button, dial it, and shoot
it.
[gunshot].
>When we're in the MOA mode on our rangefinder,
that usually means we're past one revolution on our
turret.
That's where this rangefinder comes in handy
again.
Once we have our firing solution, we can hit one
of the arrow keys on the side and it's going to
give us our windage hold based on a 5 mile an hour
wind, hit the button again for a 10 mile an hour
wind, all the way up to a 50 mile an hour wind.
That rangefinder is going to tell us how many MOA we
need to hold inside of our reticle so we can just
range it, dial it, hold over how many MOA hash
marks it tells us to do it, pull the trigger.
>So let's take just a few minutes and break down
some of the major components that make up
any rifle system, specifically our Gunwerks
rifle system, and we'll look at some of the
processes and techniques that we use to make sure
that we have an accurate, consistent, and a
shootable rifle system.
So let's start with the, probably the most
significant part of a rifle, and that's the
barrel.
We don't manufacture our barrels.
We receive a barrel in a blank form, like this,
that's precontoured.
When we take that barrel and fit it to a rifle
action, what we're gonna do in our shop is set up a
barrel in a lathe that is CNC controlled and allows
us to cut very precise, and very high quality
surface finish, and very repeatable dimensions on
our thread tenon.
Now this shoulder and thread tenon screws
directly into the action and then we also cut a
bolt bore recess and a chamber, and the chamber
is what accepts your rifle cartridge, so your
cartridge actually fits inside of this part of
your barrel.
Now the final operation on a barrel is the crown,
cutting a crown, so that it's square and protected.
Once that barrel is fit to an action, then it's a
simple matter just to assemble it and take it
out to the blasting room, spend some time prepping
the surface finish, and then pass it over into the
coding room where we put a two-part ceramic finish on
all the metal surfaces that are exposed to the
elements.
It reduces corrosion.
Now we've basically got a rifle action that is very
similar to a Remington Model 700.
Same spacing on the bolts, same trigger assembly, we
use the same magazine and feeding assembly.
A little different ejection port that's been
relieved to allow cartridges to eject a
little better and we've moved the bolt release up
to the side of the action.
Now the bolt fits pretty tight.
It is a one-piece bolt that is machined from
stainless steel, the bolt handles are bent, and then
we do a removable threaded-on bolt knob.
The extractor is an M-16 style extractor.
We do flutes to help keep the bolt clean when we're
passing it through the action.
The bolt face has a controlled dimensions for
the firing pin and firing pin hole fitments, and
then just a standard ejector plunger.
Bolts are hard-chrome coated with Armalloy and
that gives us a hard finish that won't gall if
we ever run dry on our action.
Trigger assembly is a dual external adjustment you
can access for weight of pull without getting into
the rifle system, without turning it down.
These are nice to install.
They are the most expensive trigger you can
get on the market and they have kind of a different
break, the way the sear breaks, it releases some
tensions a little different than a standard
sear.
Finally, we've got a scope ring and an extra dal
pinhole on our action that matches up with a pressed
fit pin on our scope rings.
We found that the G7 scope is so consistent on point
of impact.
The guys over at Night Force test those and have
proven that that scope will maintain point of
impact every single scope.
We had to beef up our system to keep up.
And we put that pin in there.
It's pressed fit and there's basically no
chance of motion or movement with that scope
ring even before I have my screws in there.
And finally we've got the chassis system and rifle
stock.
We need to assemble our barrel action into the
rifle stock.
You look at this stock, it has a hunting-style
profile.
It doesn't look like a big tackle stock.
It has a nice wide fore-end that's easy to
hold in your hand and also sits nice in a set of
bags.
It has a really comfortable grip.
It's a palm swell.
You can see there's a lot of relief on that.
That palm swell allows you to get really comfortable
without torquing on that grip and cause some point
of impact change.
Nice cheek piece to support your face and it
has a quarter inch of drop on the comb from the heel
to the nose so that when the stock recoils it pulls
away from your face.
We use a CNC machine to inlet for the different
barrel contours and actions and our action
chassis system.
And we'll pass that through the machine
operations.
We install the aluminum chassis system and the
recoil pads and we end up with a stock that's like
this that's ready for our final assembly, to put all
the components together.
Now that chassis system, basically, just meets up
with the action.
It's a V-block that centers up the action and
then the recoil lug recess prevents the recoil from
moving.
We actually lock that recoil lug in so the
action doesn't bounce around in the stock when
you fire it.
Put it all together and that system's complete and
it's ready for that G7 optic.
Now, to finish our system we'll take these rifles
out to the range, we'll break in the barrels,
we'll put 70-80 rounds through a gun breaking in
the barrel, and then shooting all the long
range ballistic data so that we can set up and
calibrate the ballistic turrets and the G7 scope.
So we put alot of work in the system even after
we have that scope mounted and put together in our next segment
mike davidson has the long range set up in a shooting position
and he will show you a couple different techniques to make sue
the performance and cnsitency you expect.
>Now there's a couple shooting techniques and
tips that will help you become a better shot in
the field.
You don't need to carry all these gadgets around
with you.
We've got it all right here in a nice little
package ready to go.
We're gonna try to duplicate how we shoot on
a bench.
We're gonna have a front support.
We're gonna have a rear support.
This rear support's very important to making these
long shots.
You're gonna practice your breathing.
You're gonna practice your trigger pull.
You can dry fire your gun as much as you want, that
trigger's gonna be your best friend here pretty
soon.
Now, proper body alignment's very
important.
A lot of guys will approach their rifle from
the front.
Snipers like to do that because it gives less of a
target to shoot back at.
But when we're hunting, that's not the best
situation.
I like to take more of a sideways approach to my
rifle.
That allows me to kind of drop my shoulder into the
butt stock here and it brings the left side of my
chest up off the ground just a little bit, kind of
keeps your heart from beating so hard,
especially when you're chasing that big buck or
bull.
So you roll your shoulder down into your stock,
two-point support, front and rear.
You can squeeze this rear bag just for some fine
adjustments, give it a couple practice dry fires,
and that's how you become a good shot is just
practicing how you're going to shoot out in the
field.
Probably the most important thing that
you're going to learn how to do is determine your
wind speed and direction, how to dope your wind.
Now there's a few things that we use that make that
easier for us.
We've got a wind meter.
That's going to measure wind speed.
How we'll use that is if I'm going to shoot in this
direction, all I'm caring about is the crosswind
component, what's blowing across my bullet's flight
path.
I'm gonna take that wind meter and just point it
right at that object and get the crosswind speed.
Now that's a pretty good indication of wind speed
and unless there's some environmental mountain or
canyon or something that's going to change that wind
out there halfway to my target, I'm going to go
ahead and shoot for this wind speed right here,
okay?
So it's a pretty simple tool.
The other thing that we can do as far as
determining the direction and if there's any change
in wind is watch our vegetation.
We've got some grass right out here in front of us,
you know.
We've got a little left or right crosswind here.
I can look through my spotting scope down range
at that target and see if the vegetation is moving
the same way.
If it's different then I know I might have to make
a correction there.
The third way that we determine wind speed, and
this is probably my favorite and the most
useful to me, is watching the atmospheric
distortion, the mirage.
Now, you get mirage from a difference in the air
temperature versus the Earth's temperature.
And so on most days you have it, some days you
don't, so it's not gonna work for you.
But there's a couple of ways we can determine wind
speed and also definitely direction using the
mirage.
If we have a mirage that's just boiling straight up,
you know, we have either no crosswind, or we might
have an updraft but we have no crosswind.
If we have that mirage angling upward at a 35-45
degree angle, you can count on a 5-7 mile an
hour wind.
If you have a crosswind, or a mirage, that's just
blowing straight across your flight path, you know
you have at least a 10 mile an hour wind, if not
more.
That's when your wind meter will come in handy.
Again, we've made this as simple as we can.
You range it, you dial it, and you hold for wind if
you need to, and you pull the trigger.
It's that easy and it's that fast.
They made the simplest system out there for
compensating for wind and for elevation.
>Hey, we appreciate you watching.
We've had a fun time building this show.
We hope that we've helped you understand more about
long range shooting, and also I hope we've
encouraged you to get out there and practice and do
some long range shooting.
It's a lot of fun and it's gonna change the way you
hunt.
It's gonna change the way you shoot.
I am mike davidson with gun works
if you want to see more long range shooting
go to our website gunwerks.com
or dont forget to call gunwerks and request a free dvd.
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