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In this video I'm going to show you a simple method that will enable you to create multi-color
or better multi-tone prints with any FDM 3D printer.
Guten Tag everyone, I'm Stefan and welcome to CNC kitchen.
Okay, so I was already working on this method since quite a while and was kind of shocked
last week when I saw the thumbnail of Devins video from his Make Anything channel.
Fortunately, he toned his wood prints with wood strain and did not use the method I'm
going to show you.
So if you know my other videos you might have seen that I like to test new filaments with
temperature test towers to find out the perfect print settings.
When I did that with the laywood filament I bought, I was kind of surprised to see that
there was a significant change in the color of the print depending on the temperature
I printed it at.
This is actually nothing new and kind of well-known for wood filaments.
They write that you can use it to change the color of you prints but I have never seen
it really done by anyone so far.
Since I don't have the multi material upgrade for my Prusa i3 or any other mutli material
printer, I thought that I should developed a technique to use the color changing ability
of wood filament for getting a kind of similar effect.
By using the multi-color printing options in Slic3r or Simplify 3D you're also able
to vary the temperature of your hotend for specific regions of your part.
If you are doing multi color or multi material printing you usually separate your part in
single stls, each for a different color.
I use the same technique, but I later change some parts of the G Code so that not the material
or printhead is changed but the hotend temperature is set to a different value.
This might sound simple at first, but I noticed that I had to play around with the algorithm
quite a bit to get nice print results.
So I used LAYwood filament which has a nice contrast between 190 and 240°C printing temperature.
I also tried using Colorfabbs wood filament which did not really show that property.
I'm very sure that there are different wood filaments out there which also work well.
If you have one of them please let us know in the comments!
If you want to try it on your own and want to support the channel you'll find affiliate
links down in the videos description.
So I got this method working with both Simplify 3D and Slic3r but only nicely finished it
in Slic3r because the latest version of the Slic3r Prusa edition added the support for
they multi material extruder with well working prime towers.
I'll be shortly showing you the workflow and will then be going into the details how
and why it works.
I programmed a quick and dirty EXCEL conversion tool which you can download from my github.
If you don't have EXCEL I'll also show you how you can easily perform all the steps
in a text editor.
Two things before I start.
This method is not perfect and will require some manual work.
If you have an improvement, please let me know.
If you like the method and want to see it in your favorite slicing software then just
let Prusa, Ultimaker or Simplify3D know.
If there are enough of you spreading the word this could become a neat little stock feature.
If you are or know a filament manufacturer please let me know if there is a pigment around
which does also permanently change its color depending on the temperature you print it.
Having a PLA with that property would be so cool!
All right.
So let's open up Pursas Slic3r edition.
If you don't have it yet, you can download it from his website.
You load the first portion of your dual color part, double click on it and load the second
half.
If you have a proper model the parts should now be aligned perfectly.
Now assign extruder 1 and 2 to the pieces of your model.
I created two filament profiles, one with 190°C and one with 240°C printing temperature.
You might need to adjust the extrusion multiplier for each temperature separately.
You will also need to create a wood print profile.
I printed the wood filament at around 30mm/s for the best results.
I also reduced the size of the prime tower because you don't really need that much
and save some filament that way.
Now you set one printing temperature for your first and the other one for your second filament.
Drag the position of the prime tower next to your part that the travel moves and not
so long.
Slice your part and save the G Code to your hard drive.
If you own Microsoft EXCEL then open up the conversion tool and make sure that there are
the same printtemperatures in the sheet as you have assigned in Slic3r.
Select your G Code file and start the conversion.
If you have done everything properly then it will tell you how many temperature change
entries were replaced.
If you get an error message check the temperatures you have set.
Now just upload your file to the printer and hit start.
I will provide my profiles for my Original Prusa i3 MK2 also on my Github for download.
So now at each temperature change the hotend will move next to the prime tower, wait until
the new temperature was reached, prime the nozzle and continue printing.
Depending on the number of layer changes the print job will now take quite some time longer,
since heating up my E3D V6 from 190 to 240°C takes around 30 seconds and the same vice
versa.
The parts unfortunately do end up kind of stringy with the wood filament, but that's
usually easy to clean up.
Now let's take a look how I changed the G Code in order to change the temperature
during Slicers material changing procedure.
So the Prusa Multi material extruder works only with one hotend in which different materials
are fed via a coupler.
So when it changes from one to another color material it will pull one out filament and
insert the new one.
This is where I hijack the gcode.
So I delete the removal and insertion block which also includes a kind of cleaning procedure
where the material is retracted and extruded several times.
I park the extruder 10 mm next to the prime tower and retract the filament a little bit
because otherwise the oozing material and the heat in the nozzle screw up the procedure.
I turn off the extruder motor because otherwise it got quite hot on my machine.
If I want to increase the temperature I turn off the part cooling fan and if I want to
decrease the temperature I let it tuned on.
This way the temperature change is accelerated.
Also don't use a silicon sock for this method because it isolates the hotend too much.
I use the M109 command to change the temperature which will pause the print until the temperature
is reached.
When this is done, the part cooling fan is tuned on the normal priming procedure continues
and the print is resumed.
If you want to learn more about the G Code commands you can find a great documentation
in the marlin wiki, link below.
So these GCode changes are performed automatically with my EXCEL converter.
If you don't have EXCEL download the free Notepad++.
Look for the first material change section, mark the block and use the replace function
to replace them with noting.
Then select the M104 blocks and replace them with the string for lowering the temperature
or increasing it.
Make sure that the search mode is set to extended that the \n parts are replaced with a new
line.
Save everything and you should be good to go!
So I hope I was able to show you a cool method with which you can make pretty nice prints
without having to own an expensive multi material printer.
Digging into the G Code might be overwhelming for some, but if you know some basic commands
it's really simple.
I also already worked on a method to create a wood texture on prints but the results have
not been that nice yet.
Robin Reiter who has also a YouTube channel already said that he could help me out with
his programming skills to create a more user-friendly conversion tool.
So stay tuned for that!
Try the method on your own.
Head over to twitter and show me your creations, I'd really like to see what a more creative
person than me can come up with.
By the way, if you print the top and bottom of Devins beautiful acorn model with two different
temperatures, you will get more or less the same effect as with staining it!
For everyone who has hung on until now I have a great opportunity to participate.
Due to your generous PayPal donations I want to take a proper look on one or more Carbon
fiber reinforced filaments soon.
I did some research but I would like to know with which material you had the best experience
with so far.
I would have liked to test Matterhackers NylonX Carbon Fiber filament, but it's kind of
hard to get a hold of here in Germany.
If you have a suggestion please let me know!
If you liked this video, please give it a thumbs up.
If you want to support the channel then make a donation over PayPal or use my Amazon affiliate
links below and help me cover the running costs!
Thanks for watching, auf Wiedersehen and I'll see you next time!
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