hello friends, today m going to teach you pot neck with mandarin ban and back zip
the measurement is like this
length of front neck 7.5 inch
length of back neck 1 inch
neck width 5.25 inch
length of zip cut 14 inch
in this i'll only teach the neck portion making, that's why I already did drafting and cutting of suit
this is front piece and that is back piece
first of all we make our neck on fusion paper or bookrum
for making pot neck, this is our bookrum piece fold from one side and open from one
from folded side mark half of neck width i.e 5.25/2= near about 2.5 inch
and from this side mark front neck length + 0.5 inch i.e 7.5+0.5=8 inch
make a box then I'll make designer pot neck inside the box, after making box i'll proceed further
now from top, mark 3.5 inch lengthwise and then take half of remaining length i.e 4.5/2=2.25 inch
and now we make pot design in it, take 1 inch width wise at 3.5 inch mark and then make a pot like this
this is our pot design, mind 1 inch gap on outer curves and draw another curve
now join this curve also and cut inner and outer curve of pot neck
after cutting, our pot neck will look like this and now we join it with front piece making a center line
this I already taught you (LINK IN DESCRIPTION)
after making front neck, i'll proceed further
now we come to back piece, and take half of neck width i.e a little more than 2.5 inch
and mark 1 inch back neck deepness, make a box and curving
and now do cutting of it
after that we insert zip in it, for that take a strip of two layers from remaining fabric of 4 inch width and a bit long from zip's length
and first sew it minding a gap of 1 inch from center lengthwise (at where the fabric is not torn away easily)
after doing this we fix this zip on it like we do in palazzo, pants etc and after doing this i'll proceed further
our zip cut is 14 inch, so we do temporary stitching till 14 inch mark then below that we do permanent sewing
after that i'll pin up the zip and show you
after pinning it up till 14 inch , now we do permanent sewing on it
after that we remove these pins and undo our temporary stitching so that our zip can open from middle
after completing this i'll proceed further
after that, take it to wrong side and fold the remaining fabric like this and sew it from both sides
and mark center line of back piece too
after stitching and folding i'll proceed further
after sewing on back side, our zip will look like this
now cut the center line till 14 inch which is our back zip cut
and in this i'll teach you how to insert zip
we mark small cuts at the end and now place zip under back piece and fold back piece and sew it alongside boundary line
after inserting zip, open it like this and our zip is inserted properly
cut the extra fabric from back side and after that join shoulders, always join shoulders from armhole side
after joining shoulders, now we measure neck from back zip till pot curve, it comes near about 6.5 inch
and now measure the center gap of neck curve, it is near about 2.5 inch
add 6.5 inch + 2.5 inch +6.5 inch, and we cut the total answer from the belt roll to make mandarin collar
6.5+2.5+6.5=15.5 inch, so cut 15.5 inch bookrum and length is 1.25 inch and do a bit curving at end too
like we do in mandarin collar
cut the extra bookrum piece and after that we paste collar bookrum on fabric
after cutting, mark 2.5 inch which was our center gap of neck from closed part and do a bit curving like this
mark near about 0.25 inch on opposite side and join it with 2.5 inch mark in straight manner
and now do cutting on this lines
now paste this collar on extra fabric on wrong side and after that fold it like this matching right to right and sew alongside it
after stitching, now take it to right side and mark its center, from center mark half of 2.5 inch on both sides
after that i'll proceed further
after marking center, and 1.25 inch mark on both sides from it now we sew it starting from there till back zip
like this we sew it till zip and in the same way we join it on other side too
after completing this i'll proceed further
now we fold the extra fabric inside the bookrum and sew alongside the neck portion
at center, fold the extra fabric on neck bookrum like this and sew it
after completing neck, now we do side fitting stitching of kurti and join sleeves
after completing all this, i'll upload a pic of it
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in next video i'll teach you a new cutting/stitching in a simple way..thank you :)
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