hey there today i'd like to go ahead and
show you some low light and make
photography tips on this tutorial and
these are some really handy tips if
you're getting new into doing night
photography or you never done night
photography and look and you might be
get into it so let's get started so on
this tutorial i'm actually going to go
over the best website and apps for night
photography these are really handy to
have for planning out your night shoot
and we're also going to look at the what
gear do you need for night photography
there's some necessity gear that you do
need and it doesn't necessarily cost you
a fortune to get either also i'm going
to do is what is the best time of year
to capture the Milky Way so we're going
to go over the time period depending on
what part of the world you might be in
for capturing the Milky Way and this
particular shot you see right here was
actually taken in silverton colorado and
it was right after the first snow in the
fall and i was able to capture the Milky
Way shootin right over town it's pretty
cool be in the right place at the right
time okay for those of you that might be
following me on social media I've
probably noticed a lot of my photographs
are night photography type photographs
so if you haven't been following me you
might want to go ahead and check the
links below this video and that will
direct you in the right direction for
you know if you want to follow me on
Facebook or Instagram or Google+ so a
really good website to check out and
this is a free one it's called a dark
sky finder you can either google it or
just go under website dark sky finder
com this is actually a really slick the
website you can actually zoom in to the
location you're at and it works for any
part of the world you might be in and
what it's going to show you is where the
worst light pollution is and where the
darkest guys might be in your location
so if you look up at the chart above
you'll see that obviously the brighter
the color that's the more light
pollution than less stars you're going
to see at night but to the left the
darker the color that's the best sky's to
try to do night photography in now a
really good app to get for your phone
it's called deluxe moon standard and
what's really cool about this app it
only costs a buck ninety-nine it's
really cheap this is a really handy app
to have in your phone and I actually use
this on a lot for planning out different
shoots at different times of the month
and what's really cool it actually shows
the moon rise and set times and also
it's going to show you on a calendar
when the new moon is for the best night
photography and full moon for doing more
landscape night photography so a good
tip is for gear is to find yourself a
good head lamp but you want to make sure
that headlamp has a red light on it this
red light what's really good about it it
helps from impaired in your vision so I
find actually a lot of times when I'm
out shooting really late at night for
long periods of time my eyes will
actually adjust more and more to the
dark skies to where I don't even have to
turn on the headlamp even on a moonless
night but as soon as you do have to turn
on the headlamp you can mess with your
eyes and then you're trying to readjust
again so a good tip is if you do have a
headlamp with a red lamp you just only
use the red lamp when needed and that
will actually help for you know keeping
your eyes from dilating too much and a
good head lamp with a hundred fifty
Luminum is a probably your best bet and
you can actually it's nice about that
bright of a headlamp is you can keep it
on the red light and still be hiking
along so the next thing we're going to
look at is having a good camera for
night photography now one thing for sure
is full frame cameras have the best for
low noise and most of the newer cameras
nowadays have
amazing low noise on them at high ISO
but I just want you to know you don't
have that buy a super expensive camera to
do night photography in fact a huge
portion of my photographs i'll be
showing you on this slide show we're
actually taken with a nikon d 3200 now
that camera body alone only costs 350
bucks but it's the lenses that make the
difference a lot of times to wear the
full frame sensor does come in is you
can actually shoot a higher ISO and
what's really good is you don't have to
use the noise reduction in the camera so
for example you can shoot a 30-second
shot with full frame and then shoot
another 30 second right after that
without have to do noise reduction work
on the nikon d 3200 i'll do a 30 second
shot and then i have a 30 seconds of
noise reduction going on in the camera
so it takes one minute to shoot a
30-second shot and if i don't use that
noise reduction feature in that camera
the picture will come out really bad
we're acadia me fix it in post
production so full frame cameras if you
have the money is the way to go for
doing night photography but at the same
time there's ways to get around it too
to save you some money if you're just
getting started now I an obvious one is
having a good tripod that goes a long
ways you know having a good tripod to
sit you know this is going to be sturdy
it's not going to be flimsy it can hold
up into windy situations that come along
and there's going to be a lot of times
you might be out shooting at night where
the wind does pick up and that's where
it's good to have a nice good sturdy
tripod it's not gonna move on yeah and
what I like to do with these tripods is
to either get a good ball head or a
pistol grip these are two handy
attachments for the tripod that work
really good for adjusting your camera at
night so these are definitely worth
looking into and once again you don't
have to go out and spend a fortune on
the tripod but it's worth spending at
least say 150 bucks to get a decent one
at the minimum but you can't get away
with cheaper ones if you shop around
now another one I like to talk about is
knowing your camera settings now I can't
stress it enough that if you're out
shooting with other people it's good to
know your camera settings where you're
not having to turn your head lamp on all
the time because every time you turn a
head lamp on you're disturbing other
people around you that might be doing
night photography with you so a good
trick to do is to actually get your
camera hang out in your living room shut
all the lights off do this at night when
it's really dark and start trying to
figure out your buttons on your camera
and the biggest things you want to know
is the self timer on your camera and know
the play button and the zoom in and out
buttons for checking pictures and see
how focus their in so that's a good
little trick is to do a little test run
on that and you want to do is look into
buying a good camera remote so one big
advantage of a camera remote to use then
trying to use your self timer every
single time in your camera / shooting night
Photography is the beeping noise now
you can you can do is undo the noise or
undo beeping on your programming in your
camera but a lot of times to just having
a remote with the cord hooked into your
camera works really good too so another
really good remote this is one I use all
the time it's a multi-function remote
works good for time-lapse photography
and this also works pretty slick too if
you want to be in your picture say
you're by yourself somewhere so what
I'll do a lot of times I'll set this
remote to say one minute start it and
then I'll go run to get in position with
my head lamp lit up and then once it
clicks down to a minute then the shot
will pull off which usually can last
anywhere from 20 to 30 seconds so this
is a good way to do some self
photographing and then I also use this
all the time for a lot of my time lapse
so if any of you have been checking out
any of my landscape photography type
adventure videos I do post on this
channel and you see some of those night
time lapses
or even the day ones they're all
actually taken with this remote now
another really cool remote that just
came out and I'm actually getting ready
to purchase this one this one runs for
about a hundred bucks and it's at Alpine
laboratories.com and it's called the plus
wireless remote this thing is actually
really slick it actually runs off your
phone and you just kind of hook it into
your hot shoe up above and what's really
cool with this one is you can do
time-lapse you can adjust your settings
for you know different types of
photographs and what's you can beat it
and this makes it like of your own
remotes what's really cool about it so
it's definitely worth checking this one
out if you it's probably the most
advanced mode remote that's come out now
so it's definitely one I'm going to add
into my personal kit there and obviously
it does run off your smartphone and it's
great for time lapse and photographing
the stars so a really good thing to
probably put in your camera bag is buy
some Mag lights for your camera bag and
I'm going to show you why it makes your night
photography stand out when you can what
they call light painting with these bag
lights so what I did here this was taken
a couple summers back i was driving on a
remote mountain road late at night and
it came up the spot and I could tell off
in the distance the Milky Way was
starting to break out in the clouds so I
parked my truck jumped out set up the
tripod throwing the camera and I set my
self timer on the camera for about five
seconds just didn't want to be dealing
with the remote then I grabbed a Maglite
and I set up the bag light to where it's
a harsh setting on it so you can usually
do a real spread out one or you can go
into a tight beam with it so i set the
tight beam on that one hit the cell
tower five seconds and then all of a
sudden the camera went for 30 seconds so
this is going to be a 30 second shoot on
my wide-angle mm lens
so once the shot started then lens
opened up I started on the left side and
started painting up and down and I went
along the ground and then I slowly went
to the right side kind of painted up the
grass and then went up the trees on the
right side just a little bit and then I
shut the headlamp off I did all that in
10 seconds and then there are still 20
seconds left to go for the shot so I
just kind of stayed still kept it really
dark there and after the full 30 seconds
was completed this was the result of
that photograph and this one actually
turned out pretty sweet look and I did
enjoy this night and I'm surprised on
how good that photograph turned out so a
good thing with night photography is you
want to buy lens with Infinity focus now
you see down to the bottom right that's
a symbol for infinity focus and then go
ahead and look on your lenses you might
actually have one of these lenses in
your bag right now but if not I'm going
to go through some lenses that you might
want to look at buying so these are
really handy for focusing that night I
pretty much always focus on Infinity
when shooting the stars because if you
don't have that it's really hard to dial
in your manual focused to try to get the
stars to look clear one of my most
favorite lenses which I probably use
this one probably eighty percent of the
time when I'm doing my night photography
is the tokina 11-16 millimeter f 2.8
lens some of the things I do love about
this lens it's the wide angle that could
definitely capture a lot of the Milky
Way with this lens and what another good
feature is the price on it this one
actually you can find it online on
amazon or ebay for around 450 bucks and
it's amazing that glass and the quality
of pitchers I've been able to achieve
off of this lens and what's really good
about it it's a really fast lens at an
aperture of 2.8 also known as the f-stop
so the trick
is to find the lowest aperture lens so
2.8 or lower like 1.8 which is really
fast or really good ones for doing night
photography so another really good lens
is to Rokinon 14 millimeter 2.8 lens
another really fast lens it's a fixed 14
millimeter where you can't really zoom
in or out but what's really good about
this one is the price and you can find
this one online for around three hundred
bucks US dollars so it's definitely a
good lens and it's really sharp glass
and once again the quality from this
lens is really amazing so definitely a good
one to check out also so another lens i
have in my tool bag is the or my camera
bag actually is the nikon 28 millimeter
f 2.8 lens believe it or not this lens
is very cheap 50 to 100 bucks us this
was actually my first lens i bought for
night photography when i first started
getting into it also broke at the time
that this was kind of a good intro lens
for learning night photography and I've
been able to pull off a lot of pretty
amazing pictures over the years and I
still use this lens to this day and I
just can't believe the quality of the
glass that's in this lens when you first
buy it it just feels so cheep but the
quality of images you get off r is
pretty amazing and actually that picture
to the right was a recent shoot i did i
was up on the Boreas Pass or user
Hoosier pass where that was taken at
and this was actually taken with the 28
millimeter lens and the quality of that
photograph i was very impressed with it
so still one of my more favorite lenses
to this date another great lens to look
into and i probably use this lens the
second most for night photography is the 50
millimeter f 1.8 lens this lens is
amazing the quality of pictures i get
off of this lens
just blows my mind on the glass and
what's really cool about this one it's
still a really affordable lens around
180 bucks us and shopping around once
again on amazon ebay you might even be
able to find it a little bit cheaper
that picture to the right was taken with
this 50 millimeter lens and this was
taken just outside of Canyonlands
National Park on a camping trip I did a
couple years back and we were camping up
against this rock wall at his camp
ground and it was so cool looking with
the fire lighten up everything so I
actually walked away from camp and it
was such a calm night smoke and
everything was just going straight up so
this is one of those photographs that to
this day I just love and it's really
cool that you know I was able to pull
this off with such a affordable lens on
top of that so a good tip to think about
when doing night photography the lower
the apertured number which is your
f-stop the lower the ISO you can
get away with because here's one thing
if you could be cranking out iso really
high up getting up around 3200 or even
6400 or above and of course some of
these newer cameras you can get away
with that especially the full frames and
not have such a noisy picture but if you
don't have a full frame Camera you
start reaching up to the 6400 iso or
higher your pictures are going to look
absolutely horrible so the trick is just
get yourself a really fast lens get that
ISO as low as you can get away with
sometimes doing a lot of star
photography 1600 I can get away with but
like this shot here I was able to get
away with only a 400 ISO on this one
which kept it to really less noise so
once again to review the lower the
aperture number the lower the ISO which
equals lower noise in your photographs
so if you want your photographs to be
nice and clear without having to do a
lot of post-production try to get that
ISO as low as possible
this photograph was actually taken with
the 50 millimeter lens too and I shot
this one but the Copper Mountain Resort
and it was probably about 40 45 minutes
after sunset there is still a light blue
tent in the sky the stars are just
barely starting to show through and I
pulled this off by doing a five second
exposure at F 5.6 iso 100 now to
probably make this photograph even
better would have been to jump up the
aperture to a 7.1 and I probably could
have reduced the time down to save three
seconds I just basically wanted enough
light to show the mountain in the
backdrop with the blue light but yet you
know try to keep the lights on not get
too overexposed as you could tell in
this shot the lights did get a little
bit over exposed and I wasn't able to
really dial it in you know in
post-production there and another good
tip all my photos I do take are in raw
format and I purposely do that because I
have a lot more control in
post-production especially a lightroom
and photoshop and editing and I'll
probably do like a lot of future
tutorials on how i edit out these kind
of photographs and there's definitely
some good tricks to know how to do
these okay
now I want to show you or actually tell
you some of the best times to capture
the milky way and that is actually
starting late spring through early fall
that is when the milky way is that what
i would call at its glory around here so
this particular photograph was actually
shot in early September I was down in
the San Juan Mountains backpacked way up
into the mountains and a good tip with a
milky way is to have good southern
exposure if you're up in the northern
hemisphere and I wanted this one to be
where I had the tent the fire have a
subject in there which actually turned
out to be me since I was the only one on
this trip and then have the mountains as
kind of a backdrop with the silhouette
there so this one actually turned out
pretty sweet I put it in the portrait
mode set up the camera on the tripod set
the timer for about 10 seconds once I
hit that trigger I ran over to the fire
and that here's a tip if you're doing
this with a fire you want to make sure
the fire is not blazing really bright so
this was just barely burnin it was
pretty pretty low and then also I threw
a light a flashlight actually lit up in
my tent and then my headlamp I had that
set at max power and that headlamp I had
that this particular time was pretty
cheesy so there wasn't really a really
good beam coming off of it or some of
the newer headlamps you can get some
just amazing beans so anyways I hit that
timer five seconds ran or ten seconds
ran over got in position and then I had
to stand perfectly still for 30 seconds
so here's the settings I used on this
one 30 seconds aperture 2.8 ISO 1600 so
I try to keep the ISO as low as I can
get away with the try to keep from so
much noise because this was actually
shot with the nikon d 3200 and then i
was using my 11 millimeter wide angle
lens and i like the way this photograph
turned out it actually turned out pretty
sweet-looking of course i want to redo
this photograph now with the full
frame camera I bet I can even make it
twice as better so good tip there for
you okay both of these shots of old
cabins we're taking up in a remote
section of the San Juan Mountains in
southwest Colorado I was actually out
exploring during the daytime
four-wheeling off on some of the old
mining roads and I came across these old
buildings and I noticed they had some
really good southern exposure so I do
the Milky Way would be shining nice and
bright above them so what I did is that
that evening I went back to town
and had some shots of sunsets and then
ate some dinner and then cited once it
got all dark to drive back out to this
location so to actually get to this spot
I pulled off the highway it was probably
a good 20 minute drive up a single lane
dirt road which got pretty rough towards
the top and this road winded really
tight corners with probably 500 foot
sheer drops off to one side so it's kind
of one of those roads you definitely don't
want to drive off of so then I finally
made it to this location no moon out on
this night so it's really dark pulled in
once I got out of the vehicle i was
driving the wind was just whipping
through this location it must been
blowing 15 20 to 30 miles an hour
sometimes so anyways I grabbed my
headlamp grab the bag light set up the
camera on a tripod and the first shot I
did pull off was on the upper right hand
corner there so I set the camera for 30
seconds f 2.8 iso 3200 now I had to do
3200 on this one because I really had to
try to bring out some of the backgrounds
with the light painting and I used my 11
millimeter wide angle lens on both these
photographs so the wind was wiping but
thankfully the wind kind of eased off
just a hair where wasn't howling too
much and I hit the trigger I had it on
the self timer for about five seconds so
I hit that trigger
by seconds goes and I also click it
starts it lends opens up and I'm doing
my 30 seconds recording on us so what's
that 30 seconds started I spent about
probably good 10-15 seconds with the
light and lit up the fence in the
foreground and then I had a brighter
light i used for the background where
aimed it did light up the building and
some of the trees back there after I
pulled off that photograph I walked on
over to the other building what you see
below got up pretty close to the
building since I had a wide angle lens
and once again the winds were still
whipping at this point set the camera
five second timer hit it and what was
really cool about this the clouds were
whipping across this guy so anyways as I
was taking this picture everything was
going nice and smooth and then once the
photograph was done all of a sudden the
craziest thing happened right then the
wind just stopped instantly and
everything went perfectly still and then
all of a sudden this really cold air
like came over me and I got the weirdest
feeling I've ever experienced in my life
in fact my hair on my neck and my arm
started to stand up and I was like man
this isn't right pretty much scared the
crap out of me so I ended that break
then grabbing the camera on the tripod
through it over my shoulders and running
back to the SUV I rented it for this trip
popped over in the back of the SUV just
threw my camera in there ran over to the
driver's side door right when I put my
hand on the driver side door handle all
of a sudden the wind came back and the
cold air went away it was probably one
of the freakiest things that are
experienced I jumped into vehicles so
screw this and spun on out of there and
I was kind of bummed because there was
probably three more buildings there I
really wanted to photograph but there
was a lesson learned on this and that is
don't photograph at haunted mining camps
alone I had not shit beyond us so
anyways if you don't believe you used to
go up there to this location which is
located outside of Telluride and just
go do a night photograph by yourself and
see if anything happens to you pretty
interesting place ok i want to show you
real quick on some different types of
night photography and these are
a lot of them that you might see in my
posts that I do post all the time
obviously a full moon photography that's
a really good one I love doing full moon
photography so this one was taken for 20
seconds and I would kept my aperture at
7.1 so here's a good tip if you can keep
your aperture at 7.1 to say eight point
or you know some point when I found
actually is probably one of the best
ones for keeping your pictures the
sharpest for night photography so it's
kind of the lowest i can usually get
away with when it comes to doing
brighter nights with full moon and yet i
could still keep the buildings in the
background or whatever subject i might
have and it keeps it nice and crisp and
clear now to lower the aperture or your
f-stop you go the more softer your
pictures are going to start to look so
but you usually don't have a choice on
that when you're just doing Milky Way
shots but when you're doing full moon
shots you can give away with higher
apertures which creates a really nice
picture and also I kept the ISO as low
as I could get away with with that
aperture setting I was able to get away
with 400 iso on this one I used a 12
millimeter lens and what's so crazy
about this location I was at thirteen
thousand four hundred and eighty seven
feet above sea level which is about 4111
meters above sea level there and so
definitely thin air at this point very
cool temperatures on this night but it
was probably one of the most amazing
night because right when I showed up
this moon was rising over those Peaks
off in the backdrop and I'd love that
cast of the shadows that were cut across
the ski slopes if you look kind of on
that photograph you can see the shadows
of the trees kind of cutting across
there so i thought this picture turned
out pretty cool looking so another good
thing to do with night photography I
called it the blue light photography so
that get the blue light photography this
is either done before sunrise or after
sunset and it's usually I found the best
lights probably
40 40 minutes after sunset or 40 minutes
before sunrise you got this little tiny
window probably like 15 20 minutes max
to try to pull off some cool photographs
now this works pretty slick I used a on
this one I used by 11 millimeter lens on
this on a really wide angle and this was
taken at the Breckenridge Nordic Center
Lodge this is like a beautiful new log
cabin lodge just built Mills just
wrapped up around this period of time
and we had about an inch of snow come
through and kind of blanket everything
and I noticed the snow stopped the skies
are starting to break so I was like just
go out for some evening photography I
came up to this location he can actually
see my tire tracks down below there and
then often a distance the clouds are
just starting to break where a little
blue sky was starting to poke through so
set in my camera I found the best
setting for this shot turned out to be
like 15 seconds once again I had my
aperture at 7.1 so i can keep the
building as sharp as possible and i was
able to get away with an iso 100 on this
shot so these photographs if you ever
photograph in buildings or homes this is
a great time to do those kind of
photographs is probably what i call the
blue light our your pictures will pop
out more than anybody else's and you
want to get jobs out there for shooting
you know commercial or residential and
the realtor's and stuff too they just
love these kind of photographs a great
way to make extra money out there so
just to give you some good tips now
doing this type photograph does take a
lot of practice and I'm probably going
to need to do is do a very thorough
tutorial in the future on how to pull
off these types of photographs and there
is a bit of post-production you could do
to really make these pictures poppy than
that much more so those will be future
tutorials coming down the pipeline here
so so another good type of night
photography is just going around your
city or small town and this particular
photograph I actually shot with my 50
millimeter lens this was taken for eight
seconds aperture at f 13 and iso 100
this photograph came in so sharp and it
looks really cool now one thing to let
you know when you start cranking up the
aperture a little bit what you're going
to notice is the lights will start
having what I call like light rays
coming off of them and I'll have to do
in a hold another tutorial on that kind
of stuff to it's a pretty interesting
effect he can create without even doing
you know having a special lens or
anything but this particular photograph
I shot through a tree because this guy
obviously was really dark on this night
there's no moon out so I kind of
stationed it just don't nuff to kind of
look through three with the fresh fallen
snow and it I like the effect on how
this one turned out it turned out pretty
cool looking so definitely get a good
one to try out there so another one I
like to do is fireworks photography so
they're into winter months up here in
the ski resort to Colorado this was
actually taken over at Keystone ski
resort and throughout the ski season
every Saturday evening they shoot
fireworks off so I came over to this
location known some fireworks is going
to be shot and this particular picture I
was able to pull off with my 13
millimeter lens I shot it for 10 seconds
aperture 7.1 once again trying to keep
the building and everything looked real
sharp and I ISO100 what's kind of neat
with this one is some of the people were
blurry but yet some of the people came
out perfectly clear in this shot so it
kind of gives it that kind of a real
cool perspective and I was able to
capture the streaking of the fireworks
at the same time pretty cool fireworks
doing fire photography can be a little
challenging but it's definitely worth
pulling off and then there's a lot of
people that pull off a lot amazing
photographs you see on the internet out there
so definitely worth trying out so
another tip I want to give you is
scoping out your location for doing your
night shots I can't stress enough how
great google earth is for doing this i
love this program so they have it you
can actually download it on your
computer for free or they actually have
a free app too I use this thing so much
and I because I'm always traveling to
new locations i'm always zooming in to
these locations so that way i could
figure out where is the Sun coming up
where is it going to go down and try to
get some ideas for photographs so that's
another feature tutorial coming up is
I'll just have to go through some
details on Google Earth and show you the
little tips and tricks on using this
program it's definitely worth
downloading so here's some future
upcoming tutorials that are coming down
the pipeline I'm going to actually be
making one on promoting your photos on
social media and the best time to be
posted those and the biggest thing is
the size you post because you get a
remember especially like Facebook or
Google+ people can download those
pictures into the computer so you never
ever wanted to upload a full file size
picture unless you don't mind it getting
stolen out there and i'm sure i've had
many many photographs stolen around the
world but those are small file sizes so
it's going to be really difficult for
them to be blowing up a really nice big
photograph with them some other
tutorials i'm looking at making for you
guys is a different i definitely want to
show you ways of backing up your
photography all your digital files and
stuff there's several different steps i
do because back in two thousand to two
thousand and two and digital cameras
were really starting to come in I lost
two years with photographs from a
computer crash and I could blame those
on a couple roommates at the time and
then I also want to make a tutorial on
different ways you can make money as a
photographer and there's a lot of ways
of making really good money out there
and some are pretty obvious but there's
other ones that a lot of photographers
have yet to get on boards do yet and
it's a huge market that's been barely
even touched yet and the potential is
just endless the amount of money you can
make off that so there'll be a future
tutorial coming down the pipeline so
anyways I would definitely subscribe if
you haven't subscribed they got some
really good tutorials coming down the
pipeline and also my other videos I'm
going to try to pull these out on Friday
is the day I'm going to try to release
these tutorials and then every Wednesday
I'm trying to release the landscape
photography adventure videos and those
videos basically is the story behind
each photograph or what I go through a
lot of times for taking these
photographs and I try to make them
entertaining and their work in progress
so hopefully I'll get them into some TV
quality type shows down the road you
never know where those might go so
anyways I hope this definitely helped
you out if it if it did hit that like
button down below share this tutorial
with people that you think it might help
them out and I have many more coming
down the pipeline so you guys be sure to
subscribe and we'll catch you on next
one you have yourself a really good one
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