Nastya: It is not one bit warm here!
Anton: Not how I imagined the South for sure.
Nastya: Same here. Hey everybody! This is once again The Heads and Tails Reloaded!
Anton: We are about to kick off a brand new American season. Are you ready?
Nastya: With you I'm ready to go to the edge of the Earth!
Anton: Newsflash! We are already here!
This is Tierra del Fuego, the city of Ushuaia!
If you hold up the World map, we're like at the very bottom, literally, only Antarctica is below us.
Nastya: Hooray!
Anton: Heads!
Nastya: Tails!
Anton: What is up Ushuaia!
Nastya: You kicked the new season off by botching the coin flip! That's genius.
Anton: Heads!
Nastya: Tails!
Anton: What's up Ushuaia!
Nastya: Got it this time. Good for you!
Nastya: Is it tails?
Anton: New season! New season!
Nastya: All right, you take care of yourself now, okay?
Nastya: I love you!
Nastya: As a friend! Don't you get your hopes up!
Nastya: Ushuaia. The Word's southernmost city is located on the island of Terra Del Fuego in Argentina.
Nastya: It is the World's edge for some while for us it marks a new beginning.
Anton: A beginning of a big American adventure!
Anton: Distance to the city is only 5 kilometers, so the cabs here are pretty cheap.
Anton: However, I decided to walk downtown, hold onto my 7 bucks and enjoy early views while on foot.
Anton: Four years ago Kolya also walked to the city on his own two and it was in the winter time.
Anton: Now it's mild summer weather, so no reason not to do it too.
Anton: When Northern hemisphere has winter, the summer comes here,
Anton: but it looks nothing like a Southern summer that you know of.
Anton: Instead of speedos I'd rather throw on another jacket.
Anton: I don't see any lilacs blooming. No one's barbequing.
Anton: I'm pretty cold. It's hard to talk for real.
Anton: Nonetheless, summer is the best time to visit this harsh land,
Anton: because in winter the light days only last 4 hours.
Anton: Now the days are 20 hours long,
Anton: so plenty of time to see this splendor.
Anton: Take away the freezing wind to the face and it looks like I'm next to a giant desktop screen.
Nastya: You can easily tell by my attire what the summer here is all about.
Nastya: It can be full of surprises.
Nastya: If you're traveling with money there's no need for any of that nonsense.
Nastya: Just get yourself a big, nice and powerful SUV!
Nastya: Kinda like this one here.
Nastya: The best way to explore everything is to be your own driver.
Nastya: I roll where I want to roll. Ha-ha-ha-ha! Idiot!
Nastya: We're literally at the edge of the Earth!
Nastya: The world's southernmost city is called Ushuaia.
Nastya: This small seaside town is
Nastya: hidden away from the rest of the planet
Nastya: behind mighty walls of rock and ice.
Nastya : To get the biggest bang for your buck as a tourist
Nastya: you better take your money outside of the city limits.
Nastya: Outskirts are full of adventures so I'm taking my SUV on a tour across the whole Terra Del Fuego Island.
Nastya: I'll ride the world's southernmost railway!
Nastya: See Magellanic Penguins,
Nastya: mountain tops and an ice cave.
Anton: It took me an hour to walk to the city.
Anton: Now let's see what Ushuaia has to offer.
Anton: The town is pretty low-rise and compact.
Anton: 100 steps to right and you're at the marina.
Anton: Walk a 100 steps left and you hit the mountains.
Anton: San Martin is the main street and it splits the town down the middle.
Anton: By the number of retail stores here you'd think you're in some place like Paris or Milan.
Anton: The deal is that Ushuaia is exclusively a tourist town.
Anton: You'd never know that it's a summer by the way people are dressed here.
Anton: Everyone looks like they had just jumped off a pair of skies or a snowboard.
Anton: Winter boots and oversized jackets are definitely the hot item.
Anton: Your casual edge of the World fashion.
Anton: Here's something you never ever see here – some high heels!
Anton: I see you girl! First pair of heels in 5 years!
Nastya: With my gold card in hand I decided
Nastya: to begin my tour by renting a place for a night.
Nastya: There are three expensive hotels in Ushuaia.
Nastya: But only one of three hosted Leonardo Di Caprio
Nastya: when he was here for the filming of "The Revenant".
Nastya: Leo and the whole crew stayed at the mountain top Arakur Hotel.
Nastya: To live here is like to climb into an eagle's nest overlooking the snowy Andes.
Nastya: One more star is in the building!
Nastya: To stay in the same hotel as Leo Di Caprio and not to get his sweet would be asinine.
Nastya: Well, this room's best feature turns out to be a legend about Leo sleeping on this bed.
Nastya: I hope you like minimalism.
Nastya: Why did Leonardo Di Caprio choose this room?
Nastya: Perhaps he's a fan of large bedroom to bathroom windows!
Nastya: Very convenient to see one of your supermodel girlfriends all lathered up in soap.
Nastya: She says "Hello Leonardo!"
Nastya: Then he's like "Hello Gisele".
Nastya: And she is starting to dream about their marriage...
Nastya: Keep on dreaming, girl.
Nastya: Since the hotel is sitting on top of a mountain
Nastya: it's coolest gimmick is hidden
Nastya: right behind these curtains.
Nastya: How do you get these to open?
Nastya: Thank you Artyom!
Nastya: The view is so breathtaking and windowsill is so cozy,
Nastya: all I need is some wool socks.
Nastya: Sip on hot cocoa and think of Him.
Nastya: I mean Anton of course.
Nastya: Wonder if he's freezing out there...
Nastya: Nah, who am I kidding? I really don't give a damn.
Nastya: One or the first pulls upper-scale hotels in Ushuaia use to lure tourists
Nastya: are open air hot Jacuzzis overlooking the terrace view.
Nastya: That time Regina got here Jacuzzi wasn't hot enough.
Nastya: I think I'll still give it a try. Take two!
Nastya: I'm just playing, I'm getting right in the pool!
Nastya: This is such a blessing. Feels like warm milk.
Nastya: What better Saturday morning can you think of
Nastya: rather than swimming in a hot Jacuzzi overlooking the Andes of Patagonia.
Anton: First order of business in Ushuaia is exchange of currency.
Anton: Kolya's advice was to ignore the banks and go straight to Uncle swapper
Anton: who gave Kolya an exchange rate that was 25% higher than any local back.
Anton: Let's go see what he's up to.
Anton: Hello, Kolya sent me here, remember him?
Anton: A tall white dude.
Anton: How can I find Uncle Lee?
Anton: Wow! Looks like Uncle Lee also been "Reloaded", he's doing well for himself these days.
Anton: Can I exchange dollars?
Uncle Lee: Sure. I'll give the same rate as bank.
Anton: No more giveaways I guess.
Anton: Uncle Lee claims to have become a legitimate businessman.
Anton: I can't get him to budge. No way.
Anton: Here are some free entertainment spots in Ushuaia.
Anton: They haven't really changed here in four years.
Anton: The list includes: the Penguins mural,
Anton: the Edge of the World sign,
Anton: and a stamp in your passport.
Anton: "I was here", at the World's edge. With the penguins. Allegedly.
Anton: It says so right here on the stamp.
Nastya: My Terra Del Fuego tour continues on the southernmost railway in the World.
Nastya: Some of the must-see spots I cannot drive to.
Nastya: This train is the only alternative and a very cute one at that.
Nastya: The cabins are divided in three classes.
Nastya: Economy has three soft seats facing forward costing $45 per seat.
Nastya: An $80 1st class ticket will buy you almost the same kind of seat, but with a table for two,
Nastya: while Premium class will include the services of a personal train attendant and a hot dish dinner for $100.
Nastya: I had to go with off the menu item and get the Super VIP class with my own personal railcar.
Nastya: I declare my spending spree journey officially open!
Nastya: When you ride on this train you almost feel like the rails are taking you straight to the silver screen.
Nastya: This railway is my only ticket to tap into this wilderness.
Nastya: Amazing to see wild birds, mustangs, they're at an arm's reach.
Nastya: Reminds me of a fairy tale, snowy peaks are next to blooming dandelions.
Nastya: Nature itself is the best art ever.
Nastya: The only down part is this railway's sad history.
Nastya: It was built by convicts to transport wood.
Anton: Nastya convicts didn't build the railway alone, but the whole town of Ushuaia.
Anton: The most notorious criminals were sent here.
Anton: Authorities began promoting tourism after the jail was closed for good in mid-20th Century,
Anton: making convicts from past into a tourist attraction on par with Magellan and Magellan Penguins.
Anton: They're not bashful about the past and are making good money off of it too
Anton: look, a small convict statue costs almost $25. A small statuette.
Anton: I was advised to go see Ushuaia's main museum - the southernmost jail ever built.
Anton: The convicts were forced to gather lumber and do construction work.
Anton: Their living conditions were inhumane.
Anton: It's really cold in here, like really cold. Not sure how this furnace could even help.
Anton: It's super harsh.
Anton: Although, convicts themselves were no choir boys either.
Anton: Simon Radowizky did his life sentence behind these walls, a terrorist who blew up the car of Buenos Aires police chief with TNT.
Anton: Cayetano Santos Godino, nicknamed Big Ear Gnome, at the age 16 he murdered four children, also a known arsonist.
Anton: When inside the joint he would kill other inmates' cats for which he was brutally beaten to death.
Anton: You need to know these stories in order to feel like the $23 you spent on the entrance were worth it.
Anton: Ushuaia is a starting point for travelers heading down to Antarctica.
Anton: A minimum fare for a trip like this is around $5000 per person.
Anton: Meanwhile, I'll show you what you can do while waiting for your ship for a week.
Anton: Dude, you've got to see this
Anton: Expedition to Lagos is 2100 pesos, rounds out at about $130,
Anton: Beagle Canal trip will come at hundred bucks even,
Anton: National Park costs around $70.
Anton: I get an absolute no go with a budget I'm on, so I'll improvise.
Anton: What I'll do is be my own guide and just head to the National Park on my own two.
Anton: No guides, no maps, no agenda.
Anton: I just need to get some groceries and see where the trail takes me. Let's do this ya 'all.
Anton: You can get loaded up for two days for 8 bucks in Ushuaia.
Anton: A loaf of bread, a dozen of hot dogs, 2 cans of tuna, soup mix and a bottle of water.
Anton: Time for me to get some tourist gear.
Anton: I'll get a sleeping bag, a tent and a mat to lay on.
Anton: A sleeping mat.
Anton: Now that's what I call shopping!
Nastya: Meanwhile, I continue touring Terra Del Fuego with my gold card.
Nastya: Tourist attraction number one - Magellanic Penguin colony located on a Martillo Island.
Nastya: A 50 minute boat trip will take me there.
Nastya: To see the Magellanic Penguins you need to sail through the Beagle Canal while soaking in majestic scenery.
Nastya: This is where Atlantic and Pacific oceans cross their waters.
Nastya: A place once visited by Charles Darwin.
Nastya: Just a 1000 kilometers south from here Antarctica's glaciers lay still.
Nastya: What a Nordic beauty!
Nastya: Some other cool bonus stops on my way to see the penguins included the southernmost lighthouse,
Nastya: dozens of islands, and one more southern surprise.
Nastya: Holly Mackerel! Those are sea lions!
Nastya: Look the babies.
Nastya: Sea lions down South look just like their cousins up North, also sound and smell exactly like them.
Nastya: Smells like a ton of rotten fish.
Nastya: Hey! Hello stink!
Anton: Terra Del Fuego National Park stretches over 630 hectares of thick forest.
Anton: Hundreds of hiking trails, innumerable number of birds and animals inhabit
Anton: endless variety of rivers, lakes and valleys.
Anton: You can walk to the park from the city, but you'll have to walk for 4 hours.
Anton: One thing you can try to do is hitchhike and hope for the best.
Anton: They're hating on my tent?
Anton: Common now! Damn near lost my arm!
Anton: Having the same luck as this dude from Tokyo.
Anton: Sasha, our cameraman scares them off so our friend took off on his own.
Anton: Sasha can you get lost for once?
Anton: Go back! Didn't mean to offend ya.
Anton: Run, common!
Anton: Here we found our friend from before.
Anton: We got this old school Land Rover, we're pushing towards Terra Del Fuego! Keep the windows open!
Nastya: Here we are! We're about to see the penguins!
Nastya: Our boat touched at the Martillo Island.
Nastya: Home of Magellanic Penguin and Papua Penguin.
Nastya: There are so many of them!
Nastya: How's it hanging fellas?
Nastya: Real life penguins are just as funny and splayfooted as I remember them from cartoons.
Nastya: Check them out just chilling in the sun, snorkeling, munching on some green grass.
Nastya: You can stand next to them at an arm's reach and most of times they won't bail.
Nastya: Please don't run, I don't mean any harm.
Nastya: Should you come in December, or a local June, you'll be just in time to see a real penguin maternity home.
Nastya: Penguins build their nests right on the beach and cover their eggs with bellies.
Nastya: Magellanic Penguins even know how to dig holes.
Nastya: Penguins are very dedicated spouses, fathers and mothers take turns in sitting on eggs and hunting for fresh fish.
Nastya: They can forget the way to their nests.
Nastya: Here's how they solve the problem – they start howling like crazy, really loud.
Nastya: As ridiculous as it sounds, with thousands of them howling at once, mates always find one another.
Nastya: If you took away the egg sitting part, this reminds of a senior citizen resort.
Nastya: Bunch of bodies on the beach just chillaxing.
Anton: The fee they charge to enter the National Park is $20.
Anton: That'll get you a map and a place to put down your sleeping mat.
Anton: I want to walk a lot and get my "wow effect" from Terra Del Fuego National Park's endless trails.
Anton: I want to admire the mighty silence that inhabits these mountains.
Anton: No cars or pedestrians to disturb my contact with nature.
Anton: I'm breathing in crystal clear air next to a mountain creek.
Anton: 21st Century is about selfies and electric cars, but this place really takes you back.
Anton: You feel like a part of something genuine. That feeling comes from nature around you.
Anton: The park is so huge that it would take you over a week to cross it.
Anton: If you're as limited with time as I am I recommend seeing Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon) ASAP.
Anton: This has to be one of those silent moments where you just let it sink in, no yelling hooray.
Anton: I've walked to the Park's very center.
Anton: Only here you can set up your camp.
Anton: Watch me build another Capital city right here!
Anton: Setting up a tent might not seem like a big thing to you,
Anton: I remember watching this guy on TV when I was little and wanted to imitate him.
Anton: Let's hope I don't eff this up.
Anton: I think this might be broken.
Anton: Manual is in Spanish
Anton: A small villa basically.
Nastya: I took a train, been on a boat, but to get the best view I have to take to the sky.
Nastya: Not sure I'm digging this.
Nastya: My pilot looks a bit too young.
Nastya: Did you see him looking at the manual?
Nastya: You're sure we're doing this?
Nastya: Just in case, thank you for our camera work Artyom. Luv ya.
Nastya: If we will crash I forgive you for everything, please forgive me too.
Nastya: What is that whistle?
Nastya: Took us five minutes to reach the top of icy silence kingdom.
Nastya: This is cherry on a sundae of my whole trip across the Terra Del Fuego.
Nastya: Definitely one of those "pinch me" moments!
Anton: Ain't life grand? So soulful.
Anton: All I need now is to fry some dogs on a stick.
Anton: By now you probably know why they called this place The Land of Fire.
Anton: Locals would burn their fires and that's what Magellan and his men saw from the sea as they were coming in.
Nastya: Amazing how hundreds of years later these lights continue to shine bright,
Nastya: making the edge of the World look like New York City.
Nastya: I must admit that today was incredible but now I need my beauty sleep.
Anton: Let me set an alarm for 5 in the morning.
Anton: I've been told that I don't want to miss a sunrise in this place.
Anton: Is it sunrise?
Anton: It turns out to get certain types of sunrises you need to visit here during the local winter.
Anton: Then you might see the sky looking like strawberry ice cream.
Anton: I got the crappy cloudy version, back to sleep.
Nastya: Not many people get a unique, once in a lifetime opportunity to visit a cave inside a glacier.
Nastya: High above the sea level.
Nastya: Valle de Andorra challenges all daredevils to a Vinciguerra glacier monumental hike.
Nastya: Inside the cave? Turquoise and emerald ice as far as you can see.
Nastya: I totally get it if you're critical of my choice, not exactly a rich traveler route.
Nastya: I'm in charge though, so this is something I didn't want to miss out on.
Nastya: Getting a guide is a must by law if you want to see it.
Nastya: Glacier cave hike is not your regular walk in park.
Nastya: It is six nasty hours of sticky mud, clay, peat, ice, rock, sand and any kind of turf you can name.
Nastya: Lucky I rented a GPS tracker.
Nastya: Mine comes with the looks of a young Argentinian hot throb, but I had to dish out $300.
Nastya: Horseys!
Nastya: Not really sorry I didn't rent a helicopter.
Nastya: It would have been a 20 minute flight to the glacier, yet I wouldn't be able to see all of this unbelievable stuff up close.
Nastya: Guide had plenty of stories to tell on the way up.
Nastya: This scene is from your favorite zombie apocalypse flick and it was all created by beavers.
Nastya: 70 years ago 50 pairs of beavers were brought here from mainland to breed for fur.
Nastya: There's a 100,000 species living here now and this is how their habitat looks.
Nastya: Beavers can become messy.
Nastya: My guide was trying to make sure my hydration game was on point.
Nastya: Should I just stay down here? Just shoot some pics and show me later?
Anton: Need to head out from here because I've got a date with Esmeralda.
Anton: Not a real girl per say, but an emerald lake hidden in a paradise between two mountains.
Anton: Esmeralda? I'm your Hunchback! Here I come!
Anton: In order to see a heavenly lagoon I have to go through hell.
Anton: Mud is easy for me, but it's also easy to get lost here.
Anton: Almost as easy as getting through to your insurance rep from here.
Anton: Calling from boot camp. Took me a while, but I figured out these blue arrow pointers.
Anton: Heads and Tails Reloaded means I somehow get all of the dirty work.
Anton: Nastya is somewhere warm, clean and neat.
Nastya: That's the stuff I love.
Nastya: It's leaking inside. My sock is all wet now.
Nastya: While climbing on all four at a 45 degree angle you learn that mud is not your worst enemy.
Nastya: It's the roots that get ya.
Nastya: Not sure I need to go see glaciers anymore.
Nastya: Let them melt for all I care.
Nastya: Anton and I might be doing the exact same thing right now the way I see it.
Anton: Nastya, at least you have a guide to lean on.
Anton: Meanwhile I've been circling this tree at least three times already.
Anton: You'll have to host the show by yourself if I get lost here for good.
Anton: I think we've been ignoring my talents long enough.
Anton: Here are my Ushuaia raps.
Once upon a time I was lacking balance ya
Walking a thin line I came to Patagonia.
My pants might be muddy My film crew is cruddy
Got no fear for blood eaters My netz full of mosquitos
Hell of a trip. Last day of May. My summer in Ushuaia.
Anton: Here it is. A two and a half hour hike through swamps, finally here, let's see if it was worth the effort.
Anton: Esmeralda means emerald in Spanish.
Anton: Look this place up, these waters turn all shades of turquoise and emerald on pictures.
Anton: Things you see online don't always hold up to the real life experience.
Anton: Let me see what's down there.
Nastya: After hiking up this trail for five hours it all came together for me.
Nastya: Here is the ice cave that we climbed here for.
Nastya: Not exactly how I imagined it.
Nastya: Mariano is pranking me.
Nastya: I hope that he will take me to see something like Kolya had seen on his Alaska trip.
Nastya: Nope. Not a prank by Mariano.
Nastya: Gosh, we made it.
Nastya: That's not an ice cave. Looks more like a hole with dirty ice.
Nastya: This hole is creeping me out.
Nastya: The whole thing is melting and could come crashing down at any second.
Nastya: After climbing here I realized how much I saw.
Nastya: Every time you stop to look the views instantly wow you.
Nastya: I did my trail, I paid my guide, now a girl needs her fancy ice cave lunch.
Nastya: Not some sandwich.
Nastya: Just some king crab legs. With champagne of course.
Nastya: What do you say Mariano?
Nastya: Do you feel the ice breaking between us yet?
Nastya: Look at how thick this crab meat is. Mm. Tastes fantastic guys.
Anton: If you squint a little bit you can pretend you're sucking on a like a crab leg.
Anton: Nope, not working.
Anton: It's a can and it tastes like a can.
Nastya: I wouldn't advise extensive snow sitting to anyone,
Nastya: so we are about to break camp and take a sweet short 5 kilometer hike downhill.
Nastya: Ladies and gentlemen, I declare the hunt for our one hundred dollars officially open!
Nastya: Here are your coordinates!
Nastya: The treasure is well hidden inside the bushes.
Ushuaia makes a harsh first impression, truly living up to its reputation.
But not seeing this place will be the biggest mistake you ever make as a traveler.
A simple plaque at the edge of the world with your face on the picture!
Someday you can show it to your grandchildren, point on the map and say "I did it".
Nastya: Hello, where are you at?
Anton: I'll be there in an hour, hour and a half, can you hear me?
Nastya: How long? Understood.
Nastya: Is that him on the side of the road?
Nastya: Would you look at you? Why are you so dirty?
Anton: It's a long story. I got some killer photos, will knock your socks off. Can I get in?
Nastya: I don't know, I gotta return the car in a minute. Get in but be careful.
Anton: Oh, be quiet. I'm not that bad. Freezing my butt off here.
Nastya: Shut the door then!
Anton: Aw, the things I've seen!
Nastya: What? What happened?
Anton: Oh, a bunch of stuff happened!
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