Welcome back to Sipa's garage.
This is the last part of my winterbeater fixes. At least for the moment.
In last part I got the engine running like a new.
As you may notice.
Works pretty well. So no need to do anything about that.
So now I'm going to fix the remaining things.
First one being the noisy power steering pump.
But before that one thing.
One morning I noticed that there was no heat coming at all to inside the car.
And when I popped the hood, all this were soaked in coolant and the hoses were completely empty.
So not much coolant left in the system.
So I took this random bolt and the old radiator cap off.
Because the bolt or the cap was leaking.
So i replaced the cap with new 2bar one and the bolt with the correct OEM bleeding screw.
And after that the coolant has not leaked anymore.
Hopefully that is permanent thing.
It's still bit wet under here, so this could still leak little bit or it's just old coolant left.
I may need to replace the radiator or not. We'll see.
I need to keep an eye on that.
But then to replace that power steering pump.
I have already removed the cooling fan and the shroud.
You can get the fan off by putting 32mm wrench here and hit it with hammer to opposite direction that you would normally loosen bolt.
If it's stuck, just spray wd40 or crc to the nut/thread and maybe wait for a day.
And then try hitting again.
It took couple of days to remove this so that's why I took this off in advance.
And you can then take the shroud off with the fan.
But yeah I did that in advance to avoid spending exces time getting that off.
And now when that is off, I got pretty good access to the the belts and pulleys here.
And I will take this airbox off here to get even more room to work.
So lets do that.
That is wrong type bolt for that.
And it was totally stuck.
But now it's loose.
I will then take off the inlet hose for the pump. It's the one down here.
I will take that off first because it should drain the pump and the oil reservoir pretty much empty.
And it's in the bucket.
Then I will loosen the pressure side pipe.
There will be oil here also.
Now the pump is draining at the moment, but before we can take it off, this belt needs to come loose first.
It's pretty easy. Just loosen the tensioner using this bolt here.
And take the belt off.
That's now easy to remove completely.
And if the belt is in bad condition, this is a good moment to get new one.
To remove the pump you need to take off these two 13mm bolts here.
And at the back there is third shorter one that goes to the oil pan.
So just open those three bolts and you can pull this out.
Yeah... This sounds interesting.
I probably won't be able to show the third bolt but i will now open these two first.
And those are off. I now need to find the third one by feel and remove it also.
And the pump is now removed, and it's this one here.
And here I have another one that I removed from some crashed e36. This should be fine.
So I will replace the broken one with this.
It looks like the pressure side outlet is banjo in e36 and some other one in e39.
So I need to move this to the new pump.
And this bracket seems to be different in e39 and in e36.
So I need to swap this also.
Easy peasy.
So lets remove these.
Then the belt goes back in.
Loosen the tensioner.
Yeah.
And it's now ready to pour in new oil. Just basic atf oil.
Because the cap says ATF oil only.
I will use basic 220 ATF from mobil.
So yeah. Now when the system is almost empty of oil, top the oil reservoir with oil which is 220 ATF from mobil in this case.
Close the cap, start the car and rotate the steering wheel until the pump stops doing strange noises.
You can the stop the engine and check if you need to put more oil.
And you are pretty much done.
And swapping the pump did work.
It still makes some noise, but i can't hear it inside the car anymore so that's fine for me.
So almost free fix this time. The kind of fix I like.
Next job is fixing the airbag light so lets see how that's done.
So yeah. This is almost the last job that needs to be done which is fixing the airbag light.
I already know what is the fault, but I will show here what the car says.
I did read the fault codes when I was buying this, but lets do that again.
The fault codes can be read from the round diagnostic connector and I will use the carsoft again because it's fast to use.
So lets read the airbag system.
And yes.
it says that the belt tensioner circuit at drivers side is faulty.
And also belt switch on that side. What ever that even means.
If here would also be some voltage errors and unit internal fault codes.
Which normally means that you need to replace the box itself.
But it now only complains about the stuff in drivers seat. And it's common that the connectors down there get loose over time.
In the BMW TIS there is even fault description for this.
So this is quite common problem because bmw even has ready solution for this.
So we need to take off the drivers seat and replace the connectors.
There is even partnumber for the kit to fix this. I have it in the box there, I will show it for you.
So with that this should be fixed.
Also the previous owner said that sometimes when the seat is moved, the light goes off, which confirms that the connectors are the problem.
So this is quite clear. So lets see how the kit to fix this looks like, take of the seat and replace the harness.
And here I have this box from Germany including some OEM part goodness.
Or this may have not even come from Germany, but in any case this was ordered from bmwautoparts.
Which sells BMW original pars very cheaply.
I will put the link to description if you also need some parts.
First in the box we have some precious plastics from bmw worth 170€
Which is the inner piece of the bumper that also holds the temp sensor that we changed in the first part.
But this is not for my car. This goes to Petri's car which has m-sport bumper.
So "small" M-addition to the price, because version of this plastic piece costs about 30€
But i was so cheap that I didn't wan't to buy even the cheaper ones for this car.
And what else we have here. Yeah there is some parts to my turbo project. Lets leave those there.
And here is the harness we need to replace.
This is the one. Doesn't look very special.
This was about 20€ so it doesn't cause me to go bankrupt.
And the seat can be taken off by opening the 4 bolts in the corners, that may have been even torx ones.
Yeah. Those are all torx bolts.
And before you can lift off the seat, you need to also disconnect the other stuff under the seat.
The size seems to be T50.
Then forward.
And it seems that this fault may have been tried to fix before. Because these don't look 100% original.
Someone has just wrapped these wires here.
But yeah. Here is the first wire to fix this.
This connector goes to the belt tensioner here.
So that gets replaced.
Here.
The wire needs to then go here.
This connector may go somewhere here.
And this...
And the rest of this goes somewhere here also. Not sure yet.
I have to look closer to this.
But first I will open these and take off the old wires.
And I will need to solder the wires somewhere her.
And use zip ties to keep the wires from tangling everywhere.
Should be simple.
Well yeah. i did remember the instruction bit worng. But it clear now when I looked those again.
This wire is now held by the zip ties.
And this connector here replaces this big connector here for the belt tensioner. The old wires are not anymore used, so I did cut those away.
The signals for the belt tensioner now go through this new connector.
And these wires are soldered to the car wiring.
So only seat heating goes trough this old connector.
So this connector here and this one here gets replaced.
So one of these, probably the big one has the contact problem.
So next this gets soldered inside the car.
The instructions even had colors for these wires but these two are just black.
So maybe the polarity doesn't matter.
So lets solder in these and then put the seat back in.
And I did went ahead little bit and already took of the covering sock for the wires.
And did cut away the old wires. Now I will strip these ends.
The instructions had exact measurements how long these wires need to be, how to crimp these etc.
But fuck that. I will just solder these here and it will be fine.
And fine for this car also.
The shrink tubes are too long.
And before I install the seat it would be good to vacuum this floor.
Because this is quite filthy under the seat.
There is even bobby pin here.
Wonder how long ago that was lost here.
But yeah. No colors here so I just connect these how they happen to go.
Hopefully that is ok.
Maybe the colors matter in the newer models.
Dunno.
Am I too lazy to get the heat gun. Yes I am.
Then some tape.
Okay. I will now vacuum all this and the put the seat back in.
I also need to find new bolt here.
Someone has ruined the threads on this bolt.
That is not going back.
I need to find replacement.
So yeah. This connector goes in first.
Which way. This.
Oh. I broke it.
The summer is not coming...
Then this. The instructions said that use zip ties to mount the wires S-shape.
But how..
It's in.
Then the zip ties. And my light keeps falling off.
Yeah. The instructions said to use zip ties.
Oh. Not that far.
There.
And it's done. I think putting the the wires with zip ties like this prevents extra stress from the connector which also prevents this fault from happening again.
Like that. And then that trigger wire or what ever this is.
Now I can tilt the seat back, bolt it down and lets clear the fault codes.
And now we can clear the fault codes.
Erase.
It's done. No power off and on.
I did power cycle the car and lets read the fault codes again.
Yeah all clear. No fault codes. Lets check that there is no airbag light in the dash.
Yeah no airbag light. And yeah I seem to run low on gas.
And now when the engine is running, there is no fault lights visible.
The empty tank warning is also because the car is not currently level.
But all is clear and there is nothing that would prevent passing the MOT check.
And talking about e39 seats.
I have these leather comfort seat that are going to our e39 touring.
These are electric seats with all the options you can get.
Adjustable lumbar support, heating and even massage function.
And I also got this switch panel. If my camera focuses..
Which has the buttons for seat heating and the massage function.
So I'm planning to install these to our e39 touring.
And also as you can see, this leather is not in the best shape.
So if you are interested how to fix this leather looking like new.
And retrofit these electronic seats to the car.
Comment below and I can also make video of that.
I was not planning that but if you are interested of that kind of thing, I can do video about that.
And when you buy the cheapest car there is available, there is all kinds of things you can find.
This here was some point the power cable to the block heater.
I was wondering why it feels that the engine is not warm, no matte how long I keep this plugged in.
Well no wonder when the power cable looks like this.
I didn't see this when looking and the engine bay, because the headers are on the way.
But when I went under the car, I did see this.
Seems that I also need to replace this before the really cold weather comes.
This is quite fascinating. If you can see this.
This has been laying against asphalt for quite long time.
And here I have new defa cable to replace that.
This was only 20€ in local autoparts store. Hopefully the engine will now heat up.
But i can't film how to put this back in because it's so tight and dark spot.
So you have to believe me that I have installed this and the block heater works.
The interior heater has always worked but the engine block heater not.
And then the last job in this video.
This "air condition" panel.
This doesn't even have A/C.
This is so "prices starting at" model that there isn't even A/C. only these mechanic dials here.
But there is no back light in this.
The automatic A/C panel is light with led, but this may have regular bulbs in here.
I didn't find anything on google how to change the bulb.
But if I have to guess, these dials need to come out.
Like that.
And as i was guessing there is screws here.
Which probably need to come off.
And this panel is here should..
lift off. Yes it does.
And here are the bulbs. Just normal type.
So I was right.
I will go the the local autoparts store to get new ones.
And here are the new bulbs. 1.2w model.
Just push these in. No orientation here.
Woks both ways.
Broken one off.
New in.
Do we have light.
Yes.
So panel goes back.
The the dials.
And it works.
Yeah. That was last job for this video.
And that was all I had for this video.
Wow. Quite slippery here.
Even when this is only 2 liters, the Finland's roads are sometimes so slippery..
That i can get this sideways even at third gear. As you just did see.
I was looking one with bigger engine, but i'm not disappointed for this smaller one.
This 2 liter m52 has surprisingly good low end torque.
I didn't even remember how good this is.
But of course if you try to floor this, it just dies completely. No action.
But very torqy engine for every day driving. Not fast at all thought.
But really good for normal driving.
And enough power to get car sideways at winter.
But to summarize the fixes that I have done.
The noisy blower motor was fixed by changing it.
And when the blower was not always working, changing the driver unit fixed that.
The outside temp gauge did show wrong.
-40 all the time.
The new sensor did fix that.
For the misfiring engine and sluggish throttle response.
The coils did help for that.
And about that. I have changed two coils, and it now again feels that one is broken.
So it's the basic thing that pretty much everyone is done. I need to replace all of those.
Which is the thing that I do the cars that I'm going to keep longer. Just swap all coils to new ones.
It's not even that expensive. The original coils are made by bosch or bremi.
And at least those bremi coils you can find for 30€ piece from ebay.
And about 160-170€ for whole set.
I can put link to those if you have need for new ones.
If this doesn't get better by changing one last coil, I will need to get set for this too.
But not yet, because I'm not going to keep this forever, so i'm trying to keep everything cheap.
And the engine was lacking power also.
And that was fixed by changing that cam sensor.
That's because the engine goes to fault mode if the signal is missing.
And the gas pedal did also help little bit.
But mostly it did improve the pedal wheel. Originally it was quite horrible.
What else.
The power steering pump was noisy and that was fixed by replacing it.
It's not perfect even after but I can't hear it inside, so it's fine.
The airbag light was on and the harness under the seat was broken.
Which wasn't expensive to fix.
The bulb in the A/C panel was dead and that got replaced.
What else was there. Tires at least.
What this all did cost.
The car itself was.. wow. it's still slippery here.
The car was 1100€
the blower fan was about 100€
Driver unit about 20€
The cam sensor was about 100€
The temp sensor was 20€
20€ here and there. Well lets say about 1400€ for the parts and car (forget the lights so about 1600€)
Plus some parts that I already had.
And with tires 1800€ without 1600€
Tires were going for this car first.
But I noticed that our family hauler e39 touring didn't have the best winter tires anymore.
So I did put the new tires under that and took the ties from that to this car.
Those weren't perfect but but still million times better than what this came.
So the tires you did saw are not under this car currently.
But yeah... i have already destroyed the tires that this now has by drifting all the time.
So for next winter, I'm going to again get new tires for the touring and put back the tires I bought for this.
So count in the cost for those or not.
But about 1500€ for fully working BMW isn't that bad.
And if you don't know, e39 is really good car to drive.
Even with those 15" fatty tires and stock suspension the driving feel and the steering response is top notch.
Even when people say that the e30 etc. is best BMW to drive, I would say that the e39 is better and even the best on my opinion.
And with some tweaks, even better.
But even like this is joy to drive.
There is really good feel for the road and the steering centers really fast.
And some other things about this particular car. Because this has the small 2 liter engine.
This has the getrag as gearbox. Not the better ZF.
But because this isn't e36 which some bay ricer has grinded the syncro rings broken.
The gears go in really smooth without any problems.
But still the feels isn't as good that you have with the ZF.
But it works so it's fine.
And mechanically this car feels to be in really good shape.
Minor thing being this clutch pedal that feels funky as hell.
But the clutch is probably original with 400k on the clock so it may be at the end of it's life.
Lets see how long that holds.
But i will drive this winter with this car.
And probably the next winter also, because I haven't got time to touch my e36.
So I have get this MOT checked in some point.
For that i need to fix the jacking point back there which is now inside the side skirt because of rust.
And also the big ball joints on the rear axle make quite a noise. So those need to fixed.
So the part 4 may come in the summer.
But yeah. This was all for this video.
I will drift this for est of the winter and give this for my dad to drive the summer.
So until the next video.
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