Nastya: Does my hair remind you of…
Anton: …a blonde? Top of the morning everyone!
This is once again Heads and Tails Reloaded and we are kicking off our passionate week-end!
Nastya: All because we're in Buenos Aires!
I don't know about you,
but I intend to partake in excitement next to men who are as hot as Argentinian steak.
Anton: Men who are hot like steaks?
Anton: Heads!
Nastya: Tails!
Anton: How?
How do you win the flip for the gold card three straight times?
I am telling this is as one Jew to another, it's incredibly Jewish of you. Is this how it's gonna be all season?
Nastya: You can leave now.
Anton: The Probability theory will get your butt next time, just wait.
Nastya: I am really loving how this season began!
Keep it up! Enjoy this small break to appreciate beauty!
We'll spend this week-end in Latin America's
largest and most beautiful city of Buenos Aires.
When you think of Buenos Aires
your ears immediately hear tango music…
mixed with sounds of the vintage engines…
and the smell of grilled meat…
6 years ago Zhanna and Andrey struggled to find
any kind of entertainment that didn't involve tango.
Reloaded will continue on this quest.
I was advised not to exchange my dollars at the bank,
because exchange rate is much higher
on the black market.
My fellow colleague saved around $30 on a 100 just on the rate difference exactly two years ago.
Such considerable 30% difference is unheard of anywhere else in the world.
Unfortunately for Reloaded season there won't be any freebies this time around.
Black market was shut down by a newly elected President.
I barely landed and here's a first difference already.
No more black market, so I can simply use an exchange kiosk in the airport.
It may be primitive, but I can't help myself!
I just love limos!
So why not get one here to drive me around?
This time I'll go with retro style.
This is how Argentinians pimped out a classic Citroen.
It is now a stretch.
As I promised, my driver is as hot and appetizing as a local steak!
Here's the deal.
The expensive taxis are parked over here.
Keep going and you can save a lot by hopping on an airport express,
but if you won't stop there you'll save even more with a municipal bus which takes the same road.
Route #45 will take you downtown Buenos Aires for just 35 cents.
Can you smell the sweet scent of savings?
It's nice that they haven't changed the fare.
This bus is trying to play me dirty.
This ride is really funny looking.
Interior reminds me of a scrapyard, but it gives plenty of leg room!
It changes gears like a tractor!
The sun is so menacing already I feel like I need sunscreen ASAP.
The black seats were so hot I could barely sit down.
I basically paid $400 for my own torture,
but look at all of the attention that I'm getting!
Would you look at all of that?
I would never guess that I'm in Latin America by looking at the architecture around me.
Before I could even get off the bus I was already right in the middle of a noteworthy Buenos Aires sight.
No, not this bus stop, of course, but the widest street in the World!
It spreads 110 meters wide, which is longer than a football field!
140 meters really if you count the two side streets.
The main avenue was named July 9th and was built over 100 years' time.
While Buenos Aires kept on growing and getting wider so did the main street.
It takes an average person 2 minutes to cross the World's widest boulevard.
That is if you discount the stops at the traffic lights.
A minute and a half total, but my walk was up-tempo.
Feels like the time in Buenos Aires stopped in the 20th Century
and natives are not in a hurry to change anything.
Instead they go out of their way to preserve all things old-fashioned, like street signs, stores and buildings.
The limo I rented feels less like a limo and more like a time machine
that delivered me from our time back to the 1930s.
The era when tango was born in Buenos Aires.
I always enjoyed watching videos of Argentinians dancing in the street.
It's mesmerizing and very romantic.
During my stay I want to at least get a glimpse of that legendary atmosphere.
I will do my best to embrace this experience.
Buenos Aires definitely gives me flashbacks of Europe.
One street corner looks like Madrid,
another one like Paris,
while this street reminds me a lot of Barcelona.
Yet don't think for one minute that Buenos Aires doesn't have tricks up its own sleeve.
Sight #1 – The Women's Bridge.
What does it look like to you?
Get a closer look.
Author's idea was that this bridge depicts a couple dancing tango.
If you don't see it that's on you.
Shtick #2 – A giant steel flower that is 23 meters tall.
It was a gift to Buenos Aires from an Argentinian sculptor Eduardo Catalano.
All year around at 8AM the flower opens its petals towards the sun and closes them at sunset.
According to the sculptor, the flower symbolizes the spring everlasting.
Attraction #3 – The Pink House.
Try and guess what it is?
This isn't Barbie's home, no.
This house is a Presidential Palace.
Last time Heads and Tails came to visit Argentina's President was a woman,
so the pink color pattern made sense.
Now a man runs this Country and I wonder if he ever thought about redecorating.
All jokes aside, the wall paint became pink over time,
because back in the day bull's blood was added to the paint to keep it firm.
They haven't used blood in a long time, but the color is now considered traditional.
Should your eyes get tired of pompous architecture,
walk to vibrant el Caminito Street.
Every Latin American stereotype can be spotted on el Caminito.
Small colorful houses, cozy restaurants
and of course you hear tango seemingly at each and every doorstep.
This is a place where you go to see and feel the genuine Buenos Aires atmosphere.
Here, in the birthplace of tango, dancers perfected their craft for over a 100 years.
The entire city and this dance move cheek to cheek and it impossible to separate the two.
Just like we can't imagine Paris deprived of the Eifel Tower, London without Big Ben or New Your City missing a Statue of Liberty.
Professional dancers perform right on the sidewalk and can include literally anyone.
Senhorita! Can I have this dance? Would you let me teach you?
Zhanna: I'll admit, this dance got me so excited!
I get the feeling in my bones that I won't escape dancing either.
Despite having tons of options in regards to affordable housing,
Buenos Aires is famous for couch surfing.
This is the best way to get to know local traditions and you get a free sleep-over!
I went on a local website and found the most flamboyant host in the city.
Raul Duke. Professional tango instructor and couch surfer,
having registered 9 years ago.
Raul: This is my house. You're in Buenos Aires now. Please have a seat.
So cool!
What a collection! Old school radio is on.
Argentinians like to show their history through things.
While we keep most of our photos in albums, they put them out for everyone to see.
Vintage speakers, posters, dishes are all emitting this city's true spirit.
Raul is a great host.
I got my own sofa, blanket and clean sheets.
He also gave me access to his terrace.
This is super!
Feels like a nice tiny hotel.
Besides BBQ grill this patio has a great view.
All of it for free.
I'm glad I won the toss and have a gold card in Buenos Aires.
I won't have to sleep on some old geezer's love seat.
Since I'm living it up I'll be renting a suite in a 5* hotel – Alvear Palace.
$1200 for the week-end.
Neat. Antiquated style is everywhere.
Room isn't large, very comfy.
It seems they even worked on newer paint and parts to make them look older.
Very stylish, nothing extra.
Look at this endless carpet!
Mirrors are everywhere!
I need to answer.
The room is the best! Very soft bed.
Sheets look and feel great too. Beautiful interior!
It was the reception.
They wanted to know if everything was up to my liking.
I told them this is great and didn't lie, I love it.
Let's see the bathroom.
I love the large mirror, lots of gilded details.
I haven't been on a scales for about a year.
Intriguing! Here you go!
29.4 kilos with the shoes on!
I barely get eat anything with all this traveling!
Raul let me stay for free on one condition.
I have to hear a lecture on his 30 year experience in tango.
Raul: There are dozens of stories about where tango came from,
but I have a favorite one.
Tipsy sailors would start dancing with each other in port bars to attract attention from young girl waitresses.
As time passed, the dance became more elegant and its popularity spread.
Anton: I always thought of tango an intimate dance between a man and woman,
so that story surprised me a bit.
Raul: I'm a tango instructor and I only work with women,
but you are welcome to join us tonight.
Anton: I have two left feet when it comes to dancing,
so it's brave of him to invite me.
Should be interesting, I may not learn dancing,
but how can I miss a chance to see Argentinian hotties move their bodies in a seductive way?
I wonder how much do I really weigh.
No way! No! I haven't eaten anything for 5 days.
Besides bread.
Turn the camera off now you hear?
Give me the tape, I'll burn it!
I'm at a famous local eatery, because I want to try famous local street food called choripan.
What did he say?
Should I go in the kitchen and give them a hand?
Who wants one? I do!
While I await my order let me tell you about one of the biggest misconceptions about Argentinians.
They are famous for their steaks, but they cook all kinds of delicacies as long as meat is beef and it's grilled.
Sausages, meat rolls, offal stuffed hot dogs!
I waited for 25 minutes to be served this.
Meet a popular Argentinian snack Choripan.
Chori means sausage, pan means bread.
Simple, like a hot dog.
The difference is they use real meat on theirs.
Nothing too difficult, yet it tastes delicious.
It's 5PM and I'm here for
my free tango lesson from my host Raul.
I meant to say I'm here to see some females moving passionately.
This evening's gonna be hot!
I was gonna tell Raul I have a bum ankle,
but I might not be the only one
with a bad joint in the room.
No way out now.
I forgot again.
She's saying I'm tense. I know that!
How can I not be tense?
I'm pretty popular! You smell really nice. Is that cream?
Shall we?
Argentinians came up with a fast way to learn tango for those vacationers who have cash – a tango taxi.
Only it's a pro dancer, not an actual cab.
Meet my guide, his job is to reveal all of tango's secrets in one night.
I'll learn about history, see the best stage in town and learn to dance of course.
Tango taxi costs $50 per hour.
How many people here do what you do?
Luke: About 16 now, but there are always newcomers.
Nastya: So the service is quite popular?
Luke: Very much so, because we also serve as bodyguards.
Parts of Buenos Aires can be unsafe.
First off Luke brought me to a House of Tango,
where the Buenos Aires' finest perform on stage for the rich tourists.
Interior is reminiscent of an opera house or a theatre,
but here attendees are also being served dinner.
Luke: This is used to be a home of Carlos Gardel,
a famed composer who wrote a brilliant por Una Cabeza.
Do you remember the dance scene in Scent of a Woman?
Gardel is our National hero, so his home was turned into a House of Tango.
Nastya: One seat in the VIP lodge is $280 including dinner.
Of course, according to tango taxi's rules I'm paying for Luke too.
Here it is! Famous Argentinian steak!
Looks thick and juicy.
Although I ordered mine well-done it tastes very succulent and tender!
My new friend seems to be enjoying it too.
I'm finishing my side potatoes, so let's start the show!
I understand now why Luke said that this place was the first order of business.
After seeing such a performance, even a dead man will want to try tango.
The House of Tango is for the rich and uppity.
Real people get their tango on at milonga, a customary dance party.
Here you can see young chics with tattoos next senior ladies.
Young macho looking guys and the silver foxes.
They all dance tango only.
It's like I went back 100 years,
the music and the dress code.
If this will be your first milonga here are some heads up tips.
Talking is not permitted,
the only accepted dialect is the language of your body.
A touch expresses a lot more than words.
In tango partners are dancing cheek to cheek,
so I'd stay away from eating garlic that day too.
After the show Luke took me to a dance class for my first ever tango lesson.
Luke: Tango is like having sex through dancing and the man is in charge.
You have to fully trust and obey me. Follow my lead, otherwise – no tango.
After just one lesson I was lacking confidence for sure.
I would need years of training.
Tango is like natural selection for me at this point.
This time I'll have to take an "L".
I can't do it bruh.
It's a one thing to hang out with Raul,
but this is completely out of my league.
This is high society and I got on some white sneaks.
Keep making excuses Anton and blaming your shoes.
I encourage you to travel
and dare to try new experiences.
Never in my life had I imagined that
I would be dancing tango in Buenos Aires in the middle of the main street.
Dare to dream. No one will ever do it for you!
There's really not that much you can waste big sums on in Buenos Aires,
so I decided to treat myself to a short but expensive tour to Valdes peninsula.
The whole Valdes is a National park reserve.
Rare animal kinds are numbered here by dozens.
I'm mostly interested in seeing the most unusual of all – an elephant seal.
We know him as an Awaiter internet meme.
No other Heads and Tails host had ever seen them.
A tourist on a tight budget can also afford to take an out of town tour.
Let's get to know about more local traditions!
I'm taking a trip to Escancia Don Silvano
That took a hefty $40 chunk from my total.
I can afford it, because I barely spent any money the 1st day in Buenos Aires.
Right away I learned about gauchos - Argentinian folk heroes.
Gaucho means cowboy and you can't imagine them without a horse!
Of course I'm going to ride one.
Don't worry I'm skinny.
I think she's pissed.
We'll eat later! Keep going you stubborn!
It just wants to eat and bite me!
After horseback riding all guests are treated to a favorite gaucho drink – mate.
It's being served in a special cup called calebas.
Pour mate, add some hot water and sip.
The straw prevents small pieces from your mouth.
Tastes pretty bitter and tart, but it gives you quite a kick!
Imagine tea and coffee having kids – that's mate.
Very energetic drink filled with caffeine, but also lots of vitamins and antioxidants.
We didn't even take a break before our cooking class
where I'll learn how to mold empanadas!
This traditional dish is gauchos' favorite snack.
Basically it's a dumpling, but it is fried not boiled.
I'm actually pretty decent.
I'm good enough to be a union leader!
Next stop – the horse show.
Gauchos were very nimble dudes and had to create ways to compete amongst themselves.
Their favorite horseback challenge was to pick up a tiny ring with what seems like the size of a chopstick.
A ring is later exchanged for a kiss from a pretty girl.
C'mon we've got steaks waiting for us.
Valdes peninsula stretches over around 3,625 km2.
A car is a must have in these parts.
You must be my guide, hola.
Guide: Nice to meet you. Welcome to reserve island!
Now this is what I call a bang for your buck!
Including airfare and personal guide my trip's price tag was $1000.
Guide: The best part about reserve is that you get a peek into wilderness and see animals in their natural habitat.
You can interact with wildlife here. No cars, no crowds. This place is magical.
Numerous kinds of wild animal live here.
Guanaco, penguins, foxes, armadillos and all kinds of pretty birds.
Driving through Valdes reminds me of safari.
When you see movement you have to halt your driver.
Is that kangaroo?
A tiny kangaroo!
Guide: Nastya, this isn't kangaroo. This is mara.
It's something between a hare and capybara.
Nastya: It looks just like a kangaroo.
Guide: We don't have kangaroos in Patagonia.
Look at this, there's a lone flamingo!
This is real nature.
On left side of the road there's a kangaroo, I mean mara.
Flamingo on the right. Incredible!
This one reminds of an elegant deer.
It's Bambi!
Can you hear that sound?
That's not a bird!
Thus guanaco warns the herd of danger!
We are heading towards the coast where
Awatiers await for me!
My babies!
They're so cute!
I'm about to partake in something super exclusive, but I want to keep you intrigued.
The moment I've been waiting for!
La Parilla dinner!
Parilla means meat on the grill.
Gauchos always ate meat so it is a focal dish.
Honestly speaking gauchos didn't eat chicken, they never even saw one back then.
This is how a steak should look like.
All covered by a price of an admission!
Best beef I ever tasted.
An unreal amount of meat.
I thought I spent $40 on a horse ride,
but this much steak would definitely cost over $100 in the city.
What? I already paid for it.
For the 1st time ever a member of Heads and Tails will see a live elephant seal.
I can't say I like the stench but they look fantastic.
So that's what elephant seals are like!
Huge, furry, clumsy larvae!
Each weighs a few tons equaling my SUV!
Next to it I look microscopic.
Are they farting? And they burp.
Guide: No. They make sound with their noses
when they push out salt from sea water.
I thought it was indigestion.
You must keep your distance when interacting with elephant seals.
They might look clumsy and cute but in reality they are very aggressive animals.
Males are constantly scrambling to get female's attention.
They bite each other's necks and howl.
Yet females have their own choosing criteria,
they cannot resist a male with a longest trunk.
During the fight male's trunks increase in size by 30cm.
Guide: Trunks begin growing after 5 years when a male reaches maturity.
At that time they peak in size and reach 4 meter in length while weighing 3,5 tons.
Right now the larger ones are in the open sea.
All the males with the longest trunk are out sea hunting.
Their wives and kids are waiting for them at the beach.
Not many trunks to be seen.
It's disappointing to find out that seals with longest trunks can be seen here
for only a couple of days a year. I call fraud.
If you ever find our hidden bottle be sure to take a tango lesson or two.
Believe me you won't regret it.
It turns it is realistic to break away from dance captivity in Buenos Aires, but what's the point?
If you only have two days in this city be sure to stroll its timeworn streets…
make new friends with very approachable locals…
and even if your knees are shaking, definitely give the real Argentinian tango at least one go!
You'll never find a better place for that in the entire World!
Nastya: Hey! Hey! So glad to see you!
You're eating? Good for you!
You know you need to eat more to be safe in the wind!
Anton: Have a piece. This is real Argentinian steak.
Get used to eating with your hands too,
cause in next city I'll be the one who'll wins the coin toss baby!
Nastya: Overall I really liked this place.
Guys, we'll see in the next city in the next episode.
Also take two minutes to watch some tango videos,
perhaps you'll want to take lessons. It's splendid!
Anton: Only if you're 30+!
Tango is for folks over 40 and 50.
Nastya: That's magnificent!
Anton: We're young, we need something like salsa!
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