Well welcome to another Lightblade Learning Lab. Today we're going to tackle
something completely different, we're going to go back into the mechanics of
the machine and we're going to do a little bit of setting. The item that
we're going to look at is the autofocus sensor switch, otherwise known as a pen.
Now I'm afraid you're gonna have to put up with another one of my very high tech
drawings. The lenses sit at different points above the work surface, which is
here. The lenses in this particular machine always produce the focal point
at approximately the same position. The idea is that the beam focuses down
from any one of these lenses, this being a two inch, this being a two and a
half inch and this being the four inch.
They all focus down to this one point, which is approximately seven millimetres
below the nozzle itself. I say approximately, because you cannot
guarantee that to within better than probably half a millimetre, even when you
change the lenses. If all the lenses were perfect then once you've set the
autofocus system up, you would never have to touch it again. It would always set
this seven millimetre dimension here. Built into the RDWorks software in the
vendor settings, for this machine there is something called a five millimetre
offset from Z-zero. What we've got here at the side,is a switch and I'll draw it
like this. The five millimetres that I'm talking about is relative to this work
surface. The table will move up, it detects the switch at that position
there and calls it Z zero. Then it goes into its software and it moves the table
down by five millimeters and resets that to zero. So this table position is now
Z equals zero and it's seven millimeters below the work surface. Now the problem
is because the lenses might not have exactly the same focal point as you
change the lenses, what we'll have to do is to be able to set this switch to suit
the lens in question. So as you change the lens over we shall have to change
the switch position to give us whatever this dimension is. It could be seven
point five dimension, it could be six point five, we'll have to
wait and see. Okay well let's dive in and get started should we. Okay now before we
start looking at how we set this pen relative to the nozzle,
I'm going to be a bit rude and say that I am NOT very much in love with this
piece of engineering here. It's aluminium, it's very very fragile, I
have actually got thumb screws in here as opposed to the cap head screws that
were in there originally. Because you've only got to put the smallest amount of
pressure on there with an allen key and you'll strip the thread. I've always used
these two thumb screw things,they're not all that steady look, they you can
still wobble it. You can't, you can't put enough pressure on it to clamp this
really securely. So before I show you how to set this up, I'm going to make a
radical change to this design and we're going to replace this with my own design.
Before you even start to think about setting up this system, the one thing you
must know is what the gap is we're supposed to have between here and here.
Now for most of these lenses it's around about seven millimetres. It would be a
wonderful dream if all the lenses were set to exactly the same focal point, so
that you only had to have to set this once and then after that you could just
rely on the auto focus to set the correct focal point for whatever lens it
is that you're using. If we look in here, we shall see that the lens is set quite
a long way back down that tube and that's because it's a two and a half
inch focal length lens. Now what's in here at the moment is a two inch lens
and the lens will be much closer to the front of this tube. There's also a 4-inch
lens which sits right back here, so the lens will go up and down according to
its focal length but the focal point will always remain approximately
seven millimetres below this nozzle. Now even if you change from one, 2 inch lens to
another 2 inch lens, I would advise you to check the focal distance, because not
all lenses are exactly the same. One might be a Plano convex lens and the
other might be a meniscus lens for example. |Whenever you change the lens in
your system here in the tube and from time to time you'll need to change that
lens in there, it's always worth carrying out the focus check. The irony of this
situation is that before we can do any calibration on here, we have to have
something to reference it against and so what I've got here are some little step
gauges. This one runs in steps of 1 millimetre between 1 and 20 millimetres
and this one has got an extra half a millimetre added to the bottom of it,so
it runs from one and a half millimeters to 20 and a half millimeters. So with
these two gauges we can set any gap between work and nozzle to within half a
millimetre which will be good enough. Now the lens I've got in here at the
moment is a 2 inch lens, for each one of my lenses I have already worked out what
the gap is between here and the work piece and they're not all the same.
For this 2-inch lens it's 7 millimetres, so the first thing we're going to do is
to set this gap here to 7 millimetres. Just undo that,
lift the nozzle up as high as we can get it. Raise the table,
when we're raising the table you can't really take the surface of this table
any higher than the surface of the frame.
Otherwise it will hit the micro switch. Okay, so we're now going to cut our piece of
acrylic and make a new bracket that goes on here.
The top surface that we're going to see is perfectly clean.
Now these little nick's in here are to make it easier for me to locate when I
drill screw holes, I've only got to locate the drill across the work
approximately in the centre, because the drill will automatically focus onto the
V and hold it in the correct position relative to the centre line of the hole.
So first of all I've got to set my piece of acrylic up at 45 degrees like that, so
that my holes run vertically downwards. Now I've already drilled and tapped
those holes m4, but what I will do is show you how I went about tapping those
by doing the last one. the V will automatically line the drill up this way all I've got
to do is concentrate on getting it approximately in the centre of the V,
like that.
I'm going to remove the belt from the drill spindle so that the Chuck is
rotating manually, because I'm going to do a bit of an engineering cheat and I'm
going to use this drill as a hand tap, but I'm going to do it so that it holds
the tap perfectly in line and tapping my m4 hole in there. Now what I've got is an
o-ring, I could have used a small compression spring but I decided that
people probably won't have a spring, but you certainly might be able to get hold
of an o-ring very cheaply and this will do the same job. So what I'm going to do
is to snip a piece of that o-ring out, about a quarter of an inch long. It's got
to be approximately half the distance to this edge here. We're now going to remove
this,
undo this, take it off remove the pen. Wow,
so now we've really upset the settings, that were supplied with the machine.So
hopefully, if I've designed this correctly that will be quite a nice
slide fit in there, which it is and what we're now going to do is to put
the piece of o-ring into the hole that's at the back there, that flat hole,
and we'll put in a m4 screw in behind it. We should see the o-ring just start
to come through the hole. What we're trying to do is to get this so that it
is, when you tighten that screw up, you can still move it like this. It's clamped
but not clamped. It's clamped but still able to slide around like that.
Okay, so what we've done we've actually put a small compression system in there
that allows you to adjust this very accurately and it will stay put and then
through here we can now put a cap head screw. Because A:
we've got a lot of material here and B: we don't need much clamping load and we
shall do the same in there. We'll put a cap head screw in there. We've only got
one clamp screw in here this time instead of two and that's because
basically what we've got here is a V block. I've changed the design so that
it's located here and here and clamped just there. So now when I slip that on,
and put that back in there,
like that. I shall be able to clamp that up and feel it snuggle up like that, put
just a small amount of load on it and that will be really a nice stiff
positive fixing for this. But bear in mind that this we can still move it
around you could go back and look at session 10 to find out how you would
find the exact focus for this nozzle. It really doesn't matter where you do your
location and reference from and we're going to set it off a block, we could set
it off this surface, but it might be too low. So the first thing we've got to do
is we've got to raise the table so that we've got approximately seven
millimetres under here well in this particular instance I know it's exactly
seven millimetres. 10, 9, 8, 7 is there, I'm gonna drop that down onto the gauge like
that. Hands off, just so that there's no pressure on anything and then I'm
clamping it up. So that's my seven millimetre position.
This has to be switching exactly five millimetres above the same work surface
and hey look I've got a five millimetre gauge here and I can now adjust this up
and down until it just touches the step, but that's not going to help me.
So now we'll come across to the keyboard and we'll press the Z/U button and
we've got to use the arrow keys to go right the way down to the bottom and
down this list as well until we find diagnosis.
Enter, and in diagnosis we shall find that we've got a series of basically
indicator switches and just here we've got Z plus and Z minus. So if we now
tweak very carefully the limit switch, the pen, what we should find is that at a
certain point it will change. Pull it up and just gently put it down again,
until you make the switch go red and there we go. Okay, so now we can tighten this one
up, we can feel it now, snuggled up and what we can do is test it. We will just
exit, escape from this screen and we get back to this screen here where we can
press the up arrow until we get to autofocus. Now I purposely moved the block
out of the way, just in case there's any risk of
something going wrong. Better safe than sorry, so if we press autofocus, enter
and then it drops away five millimetres, which is why we used that five
millimetre step,
and now if it's all worked properly we should find that we've got a seven
millimetre gap underneath there, just like that. Look, absolutely perfect,
seven millimetres. If all of a sudden I decide I want to do something, I want to
clean my lens for example. So I need to take my lens out, well rather than take
everything out we leave that behind, we shall often need to take that off to
clean the end of the the actual nozzle itself to keep that nice and clear.
Because that's an, if you like something that people tend to overlook. Now we've
done that, we put this back on
and the first thing we do is push everything right to the top, push
everything right to the top and tighten it up again.
We're guaranteed that our clamp is sitting down on this shoulder which is
most important. Okay and from now onwards we've got the autofocus set. It doesn't
matter that we've had it off and put it back on again because this point, switch
point here relative to that shoulder has not changed. We've got lots of space down
below now we've turned the block over and let's just do another autofocus. Run
to the bottom of the list, autofocus, Enter.
So we'll just use the real world to check again five, six, seven, they won't go
on eight and it's just a lovely slide fit under seven. So that switch is set
absolutely perfectly, now you'll need to do the same thing for every lens that
you've got in your system. Check where it's true focus point is and come back
and do this same procedure. Now if you didn't make these the first time round
and these are made out of five millimeter material just so that they
stand on their edge and are self-supporting. If you find they're not
exactly the dimensions that are shown on here either you can tweak them yourself
or leave them as they are because you're not interested in real-world dimensions
what you're interested in is the numbers that are on these here. So for instance I
don't know whether that dimension that I've just set there is exactly seven mil
it may be 7.3 it doesn't matter because whenever I set it up I'm using this
gauge.
Some very observant person is going to say, "yeah but look I've got a screw here,
if I undo that screw I can adjust the micro switch from up here", yes you can do,
but it's a lot more fiddly and you don't have the same precision control that you
do down here with my friction system that I've introduced. This will be very
much more difficult to actually set, so I would advise you not to touch this one
and just do your settings down here with this one screw. Now I'm personally not a
lover of the autofocus system because it gets in the way of me messing around
with the Machine far too much and I'm going to give you an example of that now.
Look we've just set this up to etch for example on this surface, fantastic.
If I want to raise the job and I go to Z/U and I try and raise the job, I can't.
I can lower it, but I can't raise it. It'll only come up to zero which is the
autofocus position. So all it will ever do now is come back and set to seven
millimetres IE zero Z. So if I want to for instance go and engrave something on
there what I've got to do, is I've got to go all the way through to Z/U and
down to autofocus again.
Which is fine, but I now want to set up for another job and I want the table up
how do I get the table up because it's already at zero. So when you start the
Machine up when you press reset, it automatically cancels your auto zero and
now you've got full control of Z and that's how I tend to operate the Machine.
Because if all of a sudden I want to bring for instance that surface into
play Z/U button, raise the job up, I just
drop my gauge under there with the seven mil step, let that drop down onto it, job done!
The only reason I could see, that you'd want an auto focus system, is if you wanted to
do some sort of in-process change of height. Now I don't know what the in
process change of height would be, I'd not discovered anything in the work that
I've been doing over the past two years where you have to change the focus
height during the process. There is a myth going around that if you want to cut
thick material you should drop your focus point to something like about a
third of the way into the material. Well all the experimentation work I've done
shows that I don't get any advantage. I leave my focus point set always on the
surface of the job and just adjust the speed to get the cut right. Now although
I'm not a convert to this system, I'm very happy to make it stable and to show
you guys how to set it up. If you have a real need for it within your process
then fine. In theory this is a good idea, in practice it's about as useful as this
other thing that I have strapped up. This is the red dot pointer, so when you're
not looking I shan't be using this autofocus system. I
can leave it like this, it's not dangerous like this and I will be able
to set this up in a tenth of the time that it takes for the
autofocus system to work and it gets even worse if I've got a very small
product that I want to put on there for instance let's just say I want to
autofocus on that now. Let's just see what happens. All the way down to autofocus,
press the enter button.
Ah it's now hit the limit stop for the table and so what it will do it will
find its limits position there and then it will drop down to a safe position,
like that and now I can drop this down until it just about touches the
surface and then I can lock it up and now I've got to go through the whole
process again. So we've got to set the Z/U button, go down to autofocus and
press Enter.
I've just wasted a minute of my life and at my age I can't afford to do that. Well
here we are at the end of this session and I've got to make it very very clear
that some of the opinions that I have expressed are very personal opinions,
there is no criticism of Thinklaser and the product that they are selling. This
is a well engineered product and it is in demand by the marketplace, so all that
Thinklaser are doing is satisfying that demand. It's just that the marketplace
doesn't realise that there is very little use for this lovely feature. If
you're going to do some acrylic origami work and I've seen some great stuff
online well I was quite excited at the possibility, but I've never got around to
it. The need has never arisen, I haven't got a business that would require it, but
maybe you're in a business where you have got that specialist niche that
really requires this autofocus system, but I hope today that are demonstrated
that those people that think they need it probably don't really need it. It would
be a lot quicker to set the Machine up manually. I don't want to take anything
away from the quality engineering that's been built into this machine. Well thank
you very much for your time and your patience for listening to the rantings
of an old man. I shall see you in the next session.
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