Hi everybody! I'm Mike McCrory and this is Wood U Make It.
So, I'm gonna build a cupola for our friends to sit on top of the roof of their barn.
The first thing I need to do is climb up the ladder and measure the pitch of the roof.
So...let's get started!
For the cupola there are two measurements that I need. I need the
length of the roof and I need the pitch. So, to measure the pitch I'm using a
digital angle gauge and that's going to give me the difference between the two
slopes of the roof. It's coming in a 142 degrees so to get the pitch I'll
divide that by two. That gives me 71 degrees. I'll subtract that from 90 and
that gives me 19 degrees. so, the pitch of the roof is 19 degrees.
When I bought this pressure-treated lumber about four months ago it was really wet.
Now it's about 6% so it's ready to be used.
I'm starting with the base and I'm setting the angle on the saw to cut at 19 degrees to match the pitch of the
roof. I'm gonna build the cupola in three sections so that I'll be able to carry it up onto the roof.
I'm cutting a 19 degree miter for the bottom of the leg and a 90 degree cut on the top.
For the other part of the leg, I'm cutting a 19 degree bevel on the bottom.
I'm going to use a whole bunch of half lap joints.
So, I'm setting my dado set to the right height to cut halfway through the 2x4's.
These are the crosspieces to tie the legs together and I'm cutting these to be 34 1/2" wide.
Now I'm drilling holes for the screws to make it easier to screw together.
Now I will attach all the cross pieces.
A general rule of thumb is that for every foot of uninterrupted roof length,
you want to have 1.5 inches of cupola size. So, the roof of this barn is
24 feet so I'm going to build the cupola to be 36 inches -- 24 by 1.5.
So, I've made the dimensions of the base to be 34.5" x 34.5". That way when I
apply the 3/4" trim all around that'll add 3/4" to each side
for a total of 36 inches. Now I'm starting on the next section
which will basically be a cube that sits on top of the base and this
will be the section that holds the vents.
And, again, I'm going to join everything with half lap joints.
I want the opening on all four sides to be the same width so when I have a butt
joint like this, this side is 3 1/2" and on this side it's 5 1/2".
So, I'm going to rip 1 1/2" off each of these four pieces.
Now I'm putting the pieces together to form the cube.
By the way, I have a new microphone that I'm using in this video. One of my viewers
Dana Tucker has about 45 years of audio recording experience. He's a real pro
when it comes to recording spoken word and he offered to give me an extra Audio
Technica Pro 70 mic that he had lying around. He lives not too far away from me
so I couldn't pass up on that deal. So, thank you, Dana!
I'll put a link to Dana's YouTube channel in the description. He offers a free in-depth
podcasting course and a lot of videos on how to get better results with your recording.
Now I'm cutting all the pieces forward the vents.
There'll be one vent on each side.
and I'm gonna angle the slats at 45 degrees these boards are going to form
the outer perimeter to hold the slats and I want to make sure that everything
lines up so I'm putting all the boards together and I'm drawing lines across
using my square and now I'm cutting dado is at a 45 degree angle
I can only go part way across and then I have to flip the miter gauge to the
other side and then continue to cut on the very end one thing that's kind of
tricky after cutting the dado is for one side of the frame is that you have to
flip the miter gauge around 45 degrees in the other direction to cut the other
side now I want to cut a 45 degree bevel along each edge of the slab one trick
that I have is I cover up the opening at the front of the table saw with a
magnetic strip that helps to improve the dust collection
and now the vents are ready for glue up
it's a little tricky to get everything lined up but as long as the cuts are
properly aligned it's not that different go I'm making four of these vents and
luckily I had just enough clamps to clamp everything up in one night and now
I'm just doing a test fit to make sure that all four events will fit into their
designated place
when I cut these bottom slats I meant to cut them wider so they would stick out
so that when the rainwater falls they would drip away from the bottom of the
cupola but I forgot to do that and so what I'm gonna do to recover from that
mistake is I've made some additional pieces that I can glue on and that's
actually not such a bad thing because it's going to make it a lot easier to
cut these end pieces so that I don't have to notch them out and it's actually
tricky to cut these because it's just like installing crown molding where you
have some complex compound angles and so I've done a couple of test pieces just
to show you what it looked like and and there they come together very nicely so
this is not a 45 degree angle that you might think because this is on an angle
it's not easy to figure out what these two angles would be there's an angle
this way for the miter and there's an angle for the bevel as well so I looked
online for a chart that will tell you how to cut these angles and it turns out
that the miter should be thirty five point two six degrees and the bevel
should be thirty degrees who would have figured I use a board
clamped to my miter gauge that I've already run through the blade to know
exactly where the blade is going to land so after marking my piece to know
exactly where I want to cut I can line it up with that mark and I've gotten
very accurately now I'll glue the pieces on and use a
brad nailer to secure them in place I should mention that there is another way
to cut those compound angles I used a table saw which is a flat down
method you can also use a miter saw when you're using a miter saw you can place
the piece of whether you're cutting into the miter saw and orient it the same way
that it will be sitting when it's installed and then you can use a regular
45 degree cut now I want to caulk along each of the day toes and also along the
glue line that I just created to make sure that there's no possibility for
water to seep in and I'll start the painting process while the build is
still underway and I will begin with a coat of primer on both the front and the
back
so now I'm getting ready to build the roof and I'm starting with some two by
sixes that will lay horizontally on top of the vents I guess this is what you
would call a cap plate and then I'll attach that on top of the cube now for
the roof I'm going to build a pyramid hip roof and it's going to have a pitch
of 30 degrees I probably could have used 19 degrees to match the pitch of the
barn but I just didn't think that that was steep enough to give it the right
visual appeal I'm cutting a 45 degree bevel from both sides on the end it
creates a little bit of a point but that way I can apply the fascia afterward and
everything will be lined up nicely now
this piece is running at a 30-degree angle but I wanted to sit properly on
the cap plate so I'm using my jig saw to cut a section out
and now I'm cutting a 30 degree bevel on each side of the rafters and that will
allow the plywood to sit properly on the rafter normally I would just screw these
rafters together where they meet but because there's a weather vane that's
going to be running through the top of the roof and in through the rafters I'm
going to use a metal bracket to secure them that way there are no screws that
are going to interfere with the hole that I'm about to drill after tediously
applying the primer with a paint brush I decided to give spraying a try
so now I'm using the exterior paint with a sprayer so now it's time to cut the
plywood and this can be a little tricky because it's involving compound angles
again I decided to use the same crown molding calculator but you have to be
careful if you do that because the math is more or less the same but you have to
be careful that you don't mix up the miter and the bevel because it's a
different application so in this case I have a 30 degree pitch on the roof and
the pieces of plywood are joined at 90 degree angles and that gives me a miter
of 37 and 3/4 degrees and a bevel of 26 and 1/2 degrees and if I made all the
cuts right and the pieces will fit together correctly
and now I'll cut this piece off horizontally so that I can install the
soffit underneath
this is one of the corners of the soffit and I've decided to use school whole
plugs plastic screw hole plugs and so I'm
drilling a three Finch hole partway through to make room for the screw hole
plug that go in afterwards now I'm temporarily screwing the vents
in place to get ready to make all the trim to make the trim that goes around
the cube it's fairly easy it involves cutting a 45 degree bevel on the bottom
marking the appropriate length and then cutting ninety degrees across the top
all the corners are the same so it's quite easy and then I'll glue them up
with a 45 degree miter joint I only have one of these tack life right ankle
clamps but it's all I really need it has a nice base to hold that wood vertically
without tipping over the trim that goes along the bottom is a little trickier
first I'm cutting a 19 degree bevel along the bottom and then on the side
piece I'm cutting a 19 degree miter these bottom pieces are a little
trickier because you have to make sure that all of the angles are oriented
properly for the glue up it's a little more difficult to clamp these so I'm
using glue and a brad nailer for the four side panels that are attached to
the base all of the pieces have a 45 degree bevel along the top edge and then
two of the pieces have a 19 degree bevel along the bottom
and I've marked the remaining two pieces so that I can cut out a section with my
jigsaw to make room for the peak of the roof the last thing to cut are the
fascia boards and I'm cutting a 30 degree bevel along the top edge and a 45
degree miter on each corner it's probably been a little difficult to
envision what this is going to look like so here's a preview of the assembled
product so I gotta ask would you make it
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