Hi,
I'm Kirby Allison founder of The Hanger
Project. In today's video I'm
going to be showing you how to shine a pair
a pebble grain leather shoes.
Now pebble grain is textured
leather and the shine process
is different than smooth calfskin
shoes. If you have any questions
or comments during this video please ask
them in the comments section below.
I get back to all those questions
myself personally.
Let us know do you own a pair of pebble grain
shoes? Do you have any tips
or tricks on how you shine your pebble
grain shoes? We always love to hear what our
customers have to say.
Today we're shining a pair of
Saint Crispin's Navy pebble grain
oxfords.
Now what makes pebble grain different than
smooth calf is the textured
surface.
Now this is done by embossing
the leather
and you see it either as pebbles
or a hatched grain.
There's a lot of different types of textured
calfskin out there.
Now the shine process
is slightly different
with pebble grain in that you really need to be
careful in preventing the
excessive wax buildup
that can occur within the texture
of that leather.
So there's two things that we
recommend differently for shining a pair
of pebble grain shoes.
One is you want to focus more on
using a soft cream polish.
The reason is is those softer waxes
are less prone to buildup in the
texture of the leather than a hard
wax.
And then second it's really important to use
a stiffer bristled shoeshine
brush like our Hanger Project
pig bristle brush because
the stiffer bristles are going to
do a better job to remove
any residual wax
or shoe polish buildup in
the texture of the leather.
These shoes are a pair of Saint Crispin's
Navy pebble grain
oxfords.
Beautiful shoes.
If you're not familiar
with Saint Crispin's, they're handmade shoes
from Romania.
Zach Job whose shoes
these are lent these to
me to use for this tutorial
and they have an absolutely fantastic program
so what's great about Saint Crispin's is
that all of their shoes are made
to order, hand-welted,
for absolutely no up-charge.
So you can really get some incredible things
from them.
At $1,600 they are still quite expensive
but the quality of these shoes
really is on par
with a lot of the bespoke shoes that you see
coming out of Europe.
One of the things that Saint Crispin's is most
well known for is their hollow
completely handmade shoe tree that comes
with all of their shoes.
Now these shoe trees are fully
lasted, carved by hand
at the workshop in Romania from a single
block of wood in the exact
size as your shoe.
And the amount of hand work that goes into this really
surpasses a lot of the bespoke shoe trees
that I've seen that cost three
or four times as much money.
The process that we're going to use to polish these
Saint Crispin pebble grain shoes
is going to be first,
we're going to start with the Saphir Renovateur
to clean
and condition the leather.
This provides that nourishment to keep the
leather soft
and supple, prevent any type of cracking.
It's also a nice gentle cleaner.
So since these shoes are very well taken
care of you know we don't need to use
anything like a leather cleaning soap.
But if they were more soiled
and you saw more dirt buildup you
could first use leather cleaning
so to thoroughly shampoo those shoes
but then you would need to allow them to dry overnight.
The second thing we're going to do
is then use
Saphir Medaille d'Or Pommadier cream
polish to further condition
the leather to introduce pigment
and then the soft waxes that you
find in a cream polish aren't
going to produce any of the buildup.
Now I'm going to use a little bit of wax
polish after that on these shoes
but it's going to be just to provide
a little bit of additional shine
on the toe and then the back of the shoe
where you see a more muted
texture in the pebble grain where it stretched
over the last.
Now I wouldn't want to apply
a wax polish to the entire
shoe because again those hard
waxes that you find in a wax polish
are just going to produce buildup
in the pebble grain texture itself that's going
to be hard to remove.
And then after that
we're going to work a little bit on the edges
and heels.
And today we're going to be doing that
with a cream
and a wax polish.
So I've got a nice Havana
Brown cream polish that we're going to use
to recolor the edges
and then the Saphir
Medaille d'Or Mirror Gloss which is a really hard
wax
and is great for the edges,
I'm going to use that to then polish the edges.
And then of course no shoe shine
is complete without inspecting the laces
and as you can see these laces
are starting to show a little bit of wear.
I'm going to replace these
with a new pair of our Sovereign Grade
flat waxed shoelaces.
For step one,
I'm going to clean
and condition the leather using the Saphir
Medaille d'Or Renovateur.
Now the renovateur is like liquid gold.
Super versatile.
It's a mink oil based cleaner
and conditioner.
And I like using it as the first part
of any shoe shine routine because first
it's going to provide gentle cleaning
and then second it's going to provide that
really deep nourishment to the
leather to keep it looking soft
and supple and to prevent any type
of drying that leads to cracking.
First I'm going to untie these shoes
and remove the shoelaces.
Now I don't always do this
with every single shoe shine because
honestly removing the laces
every single time you shine a pair of shoes
can lead to an unnecessary strain
on the eyelids.
But since I know I'm going to already be
replacing the shoes laces at the
end that's a good opportunity to
remove them in the beginning.
Now these laces are a lot easier to pull
through these shoes because the tongue
is not sewn into the upper.
On some bespoke shoes
and even on some ready to wear shoes
you find that if this tongue is
sewn into the upper it's really difficult
to get into the vamp
to actually remove those laces.
And in that case I really find that removing
the laces every single time you shine your shoes
is really extremely unnecessary
because you're producing a lot of wear
on those eyelid.
The shoe laces are now removed,
and so next what I'm going to do is use
the cotton chamois to apply
the Saphir Renovateur.
Now I prefer applying my
cream polishes with a cotton chamois because
one, I find that I'm able
to better control the amount of product I'm
applying.
Less is more.
And then two, I'm able to better
feel the leather
as I'm massaging the
cream polish into the shoe itself.
So this is the renovateur.
And so I'm just applying a little bit on my cotton
chamois
and then using circular motions
and medium pressure.
I'm going to massage it into the leather.
Once you've massage to the Saphir
Renovateur into the leather set the shoe
aside and allow it three to five minutes
for that polish to fully dry.
While one shoe is drying,
you can move to the other shoe
and start working on it.
Now that the Saphir Renovateur has fully
dried I'm going to use a pig
bristle shoeshine buff that
polish off.
Now with pebble grain especially I
really prefer using the stiffer
bristle of a pig hair brush.
You can find these brushes on The Hanger
Project.
We have a new version of
this brush that we just have made
with a higher density pig bristle
and a longer bristle length
and so it's the highest quality pig bristle
brush you'll find anywhere on
the Internet.
So the buff this shoe polish off
you're just going to use light pressure
and back and forth motions.
And you're going to see that the waxes in
the Saphir Renovateur will produce a nice soft
shine.
I recommend the primary use
of a pigmented cream polish when polishing
your shoes because one it
conditions, but more importantly
is two, it's going to do the best
job recoloring
and smoothing out the finish of the shoes.
So inevitably as you're wearing a pair
of shoes you're going to knick them
or scratch them
or they're going to become a little scuffed.
And so regardless
of how careful you are at some
point you always need to
just rejuvenate the finish
using a pigmented cream polish
and the Saphir cream polish
does a fantastic job at just that.
So I'm going to apply a little bit of cream
polish onto my chamois
and then I like to just kind of
dab it around
and so that just prevents too much
polish from gunking at any
one point of the leather.
So I've got that distributed.
And then in the same manner
that you were applying the Saphir
Renovateur
and you're going to apply the cream polish
using small circular
motions
with moderate pressure.
If you need more polish just grab on
with the chamois
and continue to work this into
the leather. Selecting the
color of cream polish you're using to shine
your shoes is an art in
and of itself. With 16
colors, your shoe can really
become a canvas for which
you use different colors to affect
the finish and patina of the
shoes themselves.
So with this Navy pair
of shoes of course
one would buy these because
they like the Navy color,
so I'm trying to match
the polish to the
actual finish of the shoe
or original finish of the shoe itself.
But with a pair of brown shoes I mean there's
no reason that you couldn't use a darker
brown polish on the toe
box around the edges
and the heel in order to provide
a little bit of antiquing.
Or if you're really worried about
darkening the shoes
then you can use a shoe
polish that's slightly
lighter in color because that
is going to preserve
the original finish of the shoes
the most.
So we're done with that first,
I'm going to set that aside
and allow it to dry.
As it's drying,
I'm going to work on the right shoe.
If you see any areas of the shoe
that have any scuffing
or discoloration you can always come across
that
and apply a second coat
of cream polish just to
get as much saturation
and coloration there as possible.
So I'm done
with the right shoe.
I'm going to set this aside.
I'm using a pig bristle brush
with white bristle.
Ideally I probably should be using
a black bristle just because this is
a dark polish.
I'd want to keep that separate
from any of the shoes that I might use
a brown polish with.
You can really see
the quality of the Sapir Medaille
d'Or Pommadier cream polish come out here.
So after just one coat of the cream
polish, we're already developing
a beautiful soft patina here.
So with a casual shoe
like these pebble grains,
this is as much of a shine
as I would want across the shoe.
Now in the next step we're going to use a little bit of wax
polish to elevate the shine on the toe box.
but that is completely personal
preference.
So I'm done with this one,
the left shoe. I'm going to set that aside
and finish buffing off the polish from
the right shoe.
Now that we've finished using the
pigmented Saphir Pommadier cream
polish the next step for these
particular shoes is to then come
on top of that and use a Saphir
Medaiile d'or Pate De Luxe wax polish.
Now this is an optional step
but I think that these shoes
would benefit from just a little bit of
added shine here on the toe box
and the back heel.
Now you can see that the pebble
grain texture is
muted across the toe box just
where they stretched the leather
so you still can apply a wax polish
and produce a higher shine
without having to worry about any type
of you know noticeable
residual polish within the texture
of the pebble grain.
The other thing is you never want to apply
too much wax polish
across the vamp because again
the hard waxes in a wax polish
once they dry,
will crack as that shoe bends.
I'm going to begin by applying
a liberal amount of polish
with my cotton chamois.
So I've got the wax polish on my chamois,
and I'm just going to massage this
into
the leather using medium
pressure
and small circular motions.
Now the first few coats of wax
polish is really meant
to build up that foundation
so you can apply a little bit more generously
than you would towards the end.
So for more detail on building up a proper
mirror shine on the toe box of a pair
of leather dress shoes,
take a look at our mirror shine video
that we have on our YouTube channel.
I go into much greater detail,
the technical process to do a proper
mirror shine on a pair of shoes.
But here though what I'm doing is I'm
applying that wax polish
with my cotton chamois,
massaging it into the leather.
And you really have to be patient during this process
but patience really pays off
with an absolutely beautiful shine
if you build it this way.
Now as you're buffing this to a shine again
a little bit more water;
you can take a small little dab
of shoe polish
and just continue to buff that toe
box using light pressure
and circular
motions. Developing a mirror shine,
especially on a pair pebble grain shoes
can really take a while because you have
to apply even more coats
of polish before you begin
seeing that high gloss.
And so I've been spending
I've probably spent 10
or 15 minutes on these already
and I'm just now starting to get
a really beautiful kind of
gloss on these shoes.
So this is where
you can polish your heart's desire.
I'm happy because again this is a
more casual pair of shoes
with just a subtle
high gloss shine on
the toe box, just something
that really signals that you spend
extra time polishing these shoes,
that they're well-polished,
that you know what you're doing,
you've developed a shine.
And this is going to reflect some light,
so if you walk into a room
with these. they're absolutely going to look
fantastic. So,
even better to use cold
or ice water when spraying
your chamois because the colder water
hardens the wax is better than room
temperature.
So that's a little bit of a protip
if you're looking for extra
help getting a faster
high gloss shine.
And it's just a lot of buffing.
So you've got that polish on there
and it's just honestly a lot of
circular buffing
with light pressure
to produce that shine.
Which I think we have
this next step is going to focus
on one of the most overlooked
part of the shoeshine process
and one honestly that I think most differentiates
a really well maintained pair
of shoes from everything else
and that is the heel
and edge care.
Now the heels and edges of a shoe
are often the first to go,
right. So as you're walking around
or as you're driving your car
the heels
and the edges are the first
to look absolutely terrible.
And so you can have a beautifully polished
pair of shoes, but if you haven't
paid proper attention to heel
and edge care, the shoes still
don't look quite right.
So in this step I'm going to show you how to produce
an absolutely beautiful edge
and heel.
So I've got to have Havana Brown
cream polish here that I've
matched to the color of my
edge.
What I'm going to do is essentially apply
this using my finger
to recolor this leather.
Right, so I'm just going to take that along
the edge
and recolor it. Now you want to be careful on this
step
not to get any of this polish
on the upper, especially if you're using a black,
it can recolor the
leather itself.
Now the beauty of a cream polish versus a
liquid edge dressing that's an alcohol
based leather dye,
is that if you do get any of this on
the leather the Saphir
Renomat can remove it very
easily.
But I'm massaging this into the leather using
my finger. Less is more because again
you don't want too much polish
on this or any more than you'd need
at a minimum because it
can rub off.
I've allowed the creme polish
to dry for about 5 to 10 minutes
and so next I'm going to take a
pig bristle dauber to
buff that polish.
Now even though the cream polish doesn't
have as much hard wax as the
Saphir Medaille d'Or mirror gloss,
I'm still going to want to buff this
to remove any residual polish
and prevent that from rubbing off on say
your nice Persian rug at home
and also to help elevate
that shine as much
as possible.
So when I take my dauber
and just buff this edge.
And so you can see here at the heel
is really you're going to where you're going to get the best
shine
and you're essentially shining these
waxes the same way you would if you were trying
to produce a mirror gloss on the
toe box.
Now the more layers the higher the shine
and of course the harder the wax,
the higher the shine also.
But this first step as I explained
is primarily for the pigment
which is why we're using a cream polish.
And then after I'm done
with this I'm going to apply a little bit of the
wax polish to
elevate the shine even more.
So I buffed the
cream polish off
and so next I'm going to use the
Sapir Mirror Gloss.
Now you could use the standard
Medaille d'Or Pate De Luxe,
but I prefer to use the mirror gloss just because
it has an even higher concentration
of those hard waxes
that produce that high shine.
I'm going to apply this mirror gloss
with my cotton chamois in
the same way that I would
with the toe box except I'm going to be even
more liberal in its application.
I absolutely love
a well taken care of edge
and heel.
It really sets this shoe apart,
so you can see the nice,
beautiful high gloss shine.
I'm going to end here
with just one coat of the Saphir
Medaile d'Or mirror gloss.
But in all honesty there's no reason
you couldn't come back
with a second and third coat.
The more hard waxes you add to the
heels the higher shine
you're going to be able to produce
with your dauber.
Last but not least we're going to replace the
shoelaces in these Saint Crispin's
with a pair of our Sovereign Grade
flat waxed shoelaces.
Now a flat shoe lace is going to be more casual
than a round one.
And so that's why I'm going to use a flat shoe
lace versus a round one in these
pebble grain shoes.
Second is I'm going to use
the straight across method to lace these
verses the criss cross.
Just because again it's a much cleaner
and neater look.
It's honestly the only way I would lace
a pair of shoes.
Now we do have a video on our
YouTube channel that goes into how
they use this lacing method more specifically.
So first I'm going to come up
every single time you're going across.
So I'm taking the left
lace
and
across up through the right side.
Again check inside that it's not
twisting because any type of unnecessary
twisting will just create a pressure point
that can become uncomfortable
and then take it back in
again just making sure that you're pulling
that flat across.
Then alternate,
do I'm using the right lace in
and I'm going to take it up
and across.
Again, I like to check inside that
there's just no unnecessary twisting.
And then you're going to bring it across here
to create that bar bell.
Right. I'm going to alternate again
every single time you alternate your going across
and up.
Alternating.
Going up through that final eyelid
and then same thing
back through.
that eyelid.
Now at the end you want to check your lace
length. I'm going to insert the shoe trees back
in these shoes.
And so this is a great
illustration of why I prefer
to the crossed method
of lacing
the barbells is because
if you're doing this straight up where you're
jumping up,
you're not able to pull
or cinch the shoe tight very
easily.
So cinching it tight
and then I'm going to tie them.
Again using the Parisian knot.
We have a video on the Web site
also on how to do this
but you're essentially wrapping the shoelace
twice around your finger
and then pulling it through.
It just creates a beautiful symmetric
knot.
And there we are.
One of the frequently asked questions we receive
here at The Hanger Project is how to clean
your pebble grain shoes without resulting
in any type of buildup in the
texture of the pebble grain.
And then we absolutely recommend using
something like the Saphir leather cleaning
soap
with our Hanger Project large dauber
to shampoo your shoes.
And so you would do that by wetting the brush,
creating a little bit of lather
and then actually shampooing the
shoes quite rigorously.
And then what I like to do is to take
a wet rag
and just clean off any
type of residual
shampoo that's left on
the shoes from shampooing it.
So anytime you're using the leather cleaning
soap, you just want to rinse the shoes as
well as possible to prevent any
residual detergents from
remaining in the leather.
Or as you can see these Saint Crisman's
pebble grain shoes have been completely renewed.
They look absolutely beautiful,
nice even finish,
a higher gloss shine on the toe box,
new shoe laces.
So these shoes are definitely ready
to go out and impress.
Now just to summarize the steps
that we followed in this tutorial.
First we cleaned and conditioned using
the Saphir Medaille d'Or Renovateur.
Then
we polished the shoes using a pigmented
Pommadier cream polish
to renew the finish
and further nourish
and condition the leather.
Then I used Saphir Pate
de Luxe wax polish
and the mirror gloss to elevate the shine
on the toe box itself.
And then we worked with the edge using the
Saphir Pommadier cream polish to recolor
and the Saphir Medaille d'Or
mirror gloss to shine
these edges.
And then last and not least
we replaced the laces using a
pair of our Sovereign Grade flat
wax shoelaces.
If you have any questions please ask them in
the comments section below.
I get back to all questions myself
and let us know what you thought of this video if you liked
it, give us the thumbs up.
Subscribe to our channel.
And of course let us know if
you have any tips
or tricks on how you like to
shine your pebble grain shoes.
I'm Kirby Allison founder of The Hanger Project
and thanks for joining us.
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