- We're at Wallaby World.
- This hatch has to go.
It doesn't belong in the cockpit.
A heat gun and a scraper can save you a lot of time.
- It's been raining for more than a week now,
every single day.
We've been pretty busy with David,
making those seats and reinforcing
the transom of the dinghy.
We did that the other day. - Yup, that was great.
- And we've been really busy.
We purchased a new computer
with our PayPal and Patreon funds
because we really were struggling with our old Mac Books,
our eight year old Mac Books.
So that's been great but it's been
a big learning curve for us.
So we've been spending a lot of time
in front of the computer learning how to use
a new editing software, Da Vinci Resolve,
which we really love.
But yeah, it's just learning a new programme, it takes time.
It has been raining for nine days.
So it's been a little bit of a blessing for us
because had we had been able to get space
on The Hud to pull the boat out,
on the hard to pull the boat out,
- We'd be paying $70 a day and we'd be looking out
and I'd be gnashing my teeth.
I guess for some of it, we could've set up big tarps
and everything else like that, but it's never ideal.
- Yeah. - You want--
- Trying to do boat painting and stuff in the rain,
it doesn't set.
It happened in Darwin. - Yeah, you can't.
Like I said, there's a limit to the humidity that you get
to successfully be able to paint with.
There's a big community of wallabies that are up here.
- [Pascale] Oh yeah?
- See if they're just loitering around around on the road.
- We're at Wallaby World. (laughs)
(gentle music)
-Let's see if they're just loitering around around on the oval.
There's just no vacancy, but there's still
some things that we can do in water.
And I'll just show you a couple of things
that I was a bit concerned about and I have been for awhile.
Little bit of a tight squeeze.
This hatch that's been put in here,
you can see that the hole was cut out,
and well, I don't know.
Maybe there was another hatch there before or whatever.
But it was a pretty ill-conceived job.
If we look up here, there was a hatch there.
And this hatch here.
And heres the backside of the Morse cable,
the throttle, and gear control.
And it's just been sort of stuck straight in the wood,
and maybe a little bit of Sikaflex.
But it really is a terrible job.
So all of those items, to no one's surprise,
has in heavy weather, let water get into
this area inside the boat.
And also unsurprisingly we can look down here
and we can see the ravages of seawater getting to the boat.
To that end, this hatch has to go, all right.
This wiring run's not too bad now,
but there is some other wiring in here
that needs to be just gone.
Right, it's old, it doesn't need to be there.
And you can see up there, that goes into the lazarette.
I'm actually going to put some hatches
so I can access that a lot more easily.
And you can see up there, that goes into the lazerette.
but I want them to be watertight and dogged down.
So If you're going along and you're inspecting a new boat,
if you see that the previous owner's
just sort of stuck hatches into the cockpit,
stuck hatches out there where they might leak,
that's not a deal-sinker, but I would definitely be,
it definitely should cost them $1000 off the price, right,
'cause they should be gone
unless they are really good-quality hatches,
because you just can't let seawater get inside your boat.
That salt, if it doesn't sink your boat,
what it is going to do is carry salt in.
And it's just not acceptable.
So yeah, this is my first boat.
And when I saw this, when I actually got this boat,
this whole bed area had been blocked off
by a little sort of cupboard, here where I'm laying.
And I guess the previous owners had put these hatches in
so they could access stuff in here.
But I don't understand why.
It's led to some evil things happening here
in the starboard quarter berth.
All right, so we've pulled all the screws out of the hatch.
Let's have a little bit of a look
at what she was and why it was leaking.
All right, so we've pulled our hatch out.
And I mean, it's a fairly tough old hatch, this one.
But it doesn't belong in a cockpit, you know what I mean?
It's like every time you get inundated with water,
and a cockpit's sort of built for that.
You know, like if a wave comes in,
you need to have your boat waterproof.
So these sort of hatches, they're just not going to cut it.
If I want to repair this hole and use the minimum of glass,
what I'm going to need to do is go and get some plywood
and stick it in here to make up the gaps.
I don't have that here, but that doesn't mean
I can't make some forward progress.
What I'm going to do is I've got an orbital sander there,
and everywhere that I'm going to want to glass
I need to take back whatever paint.
I need to get back to the parent glass there,
or at least some nice clean resin,
wash it down with acetone, and then I'll be ready
to fibreglass once I have that plywood.
Now that I have this great big hole, look at this boat.
You can tell when Pascale's not around,
'cause everything goes to hell, doesn't it?
I've pulled everything out of every locker
and it's just everywhere.
But back to what I was just saying.
I've got a big hole in the side of the boat.
And if I just take to it with a power sander right now,
of course all the dust is going to go
straight into that quarter berth.
I'm going to have to clean it up.
So out in one of the shipyard bins,
well, not the shipyard, one of the trawler bins.
It looks like they've gone and got themselves
a nice buffet for the trawler.
(upbeat folk music)
And then I can actually just fill in any gaps
with the hot glue, just like that.
Too easy.
And that's fairly strong there.
So I'm just going to prep this area here.
I'll be able to just put a bit of hot glue on there
and put the timber in place, and it'll be pretty flush.
And then it'll be a case of putting in the bog
and glassing over.
(gentle folk music)
If the paintwork starts to go off,
you might be tempted just to leave it.
But I would recommend chasing it.
Just keep going until it stops flaking off.
I know it's going to make a bigger job,
but you might as well, while you're having a go at it.
Don't be tempted to leave it,
'cause we can see we've got this rotten wood here.
That's going to get addressed.
But look, we found another bit here that sort of crept along
under here where this damage is, and it's there.
That sounds pretty good.
Hollow.
That sounds good.
That doesn't sound good.
(gentle folk music)
I really like having an open-ended
and a ratchet spanner all in one.
These ones you have this little switch,
and you can get the angle that you want
and then slide the locking thing into place,
and it's locked there.
That's a nice feature to look for.
And while we're talking spanners, you're going to need
a 13 mil, a 12 mil, and a 10 mil a lot of the time.
So don't let anyone borrow them and never give them back.
And it probably pays to have a few spares.
I know on some boats also,
when you're bleeding your fuel lines on your diesel
there'll be a set of spanners that you require for that.
Some people will paint those up
because they're in the engine bay,
so you know that they belong in the engine bay.
And they'll leave them there next to the engine.
Because sometimes when you want to bleed that diesel
and get it started, you want to do it in a hurry
and you don't want to be digging around for tools.
So that's just one other little tip that I would give
that you might not see somewhere else.
Find out what spanners you need for bleeding your diesel
and find a spot in the engine room
where you can securely stow them there, all right?
And don't take them out of it.
Hopefully I'm not teaching too many people
to suck eggs on this one.
But if you have to knock a bolt
out of something like that, what we're looking at up here,
it really pays to put the nut back on the end of it
as a surface that you can tap against.
Ideally you want a soft-faced hammer.
But you would still be doing this
to increase the surface area.
So you put the nut on the end of the bolt.
And this, like I said, this is for newcomers to this stuff.
There's plenty of people watching this
are starting to yawn, I guess.
But throw that nut on the end there
and you'll have something to hit against.
I, I'm ashamed to admit,
haven't had a soft-faced hammer for about eight months.
So I do have this old carpenter's hammer
which I'm sort of getting by with.
So I'll have a bit of a tap with that.
But you know, just gently, gently is the way to go.
And whack it. (hammer tapping)
Okay, so we've done a little bit
of evil there with a hammer,
but those threads are still in good condition.
Okay, we've done a fair bit of the prep work.
And now I'm just going to get the sander out
and start heating it up.
And that's a really good point that I'd like to make.
It's worth having the inverter on your boat
if you think you might be doing
a bit of work as you're going along.
Now, we didn't have any space
to be pulled out on the slipway,
so we don't have access the shore power electricity.
But I can still, well, not welders,
but I can still use all the other tools
that I have onboard that run onto 40 volt.
You know, as long as they're only going to draw 10 amps or so,
I've got a 450 amp power battery bank.
That's lead acid batteries, so practically,
it's about 225 usable amp power battery bank.
And because we're not living aboard,
the sun is well and truly keeping up with the demand.
You know, we're not running all the other things.
So yeah, I think a pure sine wave inverter
so you can run your computers and stuff off it
is a really great investment, and I would go with it.
Another really good investment is breathing protection.
It's not a big investment,
but it will save you a lot of money in the long run.
Easy to overlook.
(gentle folk music)
One of the handier tools you can have on your boat,
for measuring, anyway, is a Vernier.
With this one, we're going to use this little depth gauge.
If you ever had a Vernier
and you're mucking around with it and you're wondering,
oh, what's that little thing at the back?
That's what it's for, measuring the depths of things.
So we'll just use that.
It looks like 3/4 inch ply, but we'll just measure it.
18 mil, I know I swap between metric and Imperial.
It's just a bug.
18 millimetre plywood.
So I'll actually probably get it
a little bit slimmer than that
and I'll make up the difference with glass
so it's nice and strong.
(gentle folk music)
So we're going to strip off the old varnish,
sand back this weather damaged wood, and revarnish it.
So rather than just hit it straightaway with sandpaper,
back in my old boat maintenance days,
our head maintenance guy used to like us to just hit it
with a heat gun first, mildly, with a bit of care,
and just bubble the varnish.
Then you can scrape it up
and it saves on the cleanup in the end.
Any way you do this is going to be messy,
but we just found, and particularly if we were working
all over a large ship, cleanup was a big deal.
So if we could save any sort of work, we tried to.
So there you go.
Progress in the world is made by lazy people.
Shall we?
- Able assistant is going to plug in the heat gun.
- Thank you, David.
Oh!
(laughing)
- [Pascale] That's pretty bad.
- Sorry, but I had to. - You did lower the bar.
- So if you haven't seen it before,
a heat gun and a scraper can save you a lot of time.
To sand that would have been
a bit of time and a bit of cleanup.
But you know, a heat gun will strip varnish off really well,
and you won't have to really get in there.
And this is really soft wood,
probably just cheap old plywood.
With the heat gun I don't have to (grunts).
'Cause look, if I didn't do it,
I'd really have to hit it with a scraper
and it's not a good look.
A bit of heat and (whistles) off she comes.
And I'm not going to have a lot of scars on the timber
that I'm going to have to spend hours sanding.
♪ I hear the asteroids flying by ♪
♪ So this could be our last goodbye ♪
♪ No time to worry any more ♪
♪ I may not be all right for sure ♪
- Righty-o, well, I've cut out a nice bit of ply.
And I just used the old hatch as a template.
Okay, doesn't need to be particularly neat
because it's going to be hidden by glass.
So that just needs to be
sealed with a bit of epoxy and put in place.
What we can see now, this board that's here,
I'll give that a bit of a cleanup.
But now I can just put a little bit
of that hot glue on this template, put it in,
and it's not going to fall into the boat.
So it's done double duty there.
It's stopped all of that stuff
from getting into our nice little boat there,
making us all itchy sometime in the future.
But it also gives us a backing where we can put that.
I'll glue it in place, fill in these with epoxy,
and then like I say, I'll put a number of layers
of glass over and that will be a really strong patch.
And most importantly, it won't let water in the boat.
So that's one more leak that will be dealt with.
Wash it down with a bit of acetone first.
And the main thing that you're trying to do here
is really get into those gaps.
This is not fairing.
This is just getting this filler right
in the gaps between everything.
And we are looking to get rid of that step, obviously,
so the glass has something nice to go up,
like a bit of a ramp.
But this is not the fairing stage.
Had a beautiful couple of days of weather.
- Yeah. - Yeah, it's not.
(laughing)
- So we are taking the sails back to the boat,
and we're going to clean it up and get it ready
to put our things back inside, all from the house.
- Yeah. - Pretty much it.
- No matter what's going on, rain or shine,
there's always something to do, isn't there?
We can always, like I said, move forwards.
- Yeah.
That's a pretty sweet ride you got there.
- [Troy] Looks good, doesn't it?
- [Pascale] How do you feel about our new dinghy?
New-looking dinghy.
- New-looking dinghy.
- [Pascale] She looks pretty neat.
- [Troy] It's a lot less scabby.
- [Pascale] New white ropes, new flotation, new seats.
(laid back electronic music)
- Okay, we're going to go put that head sail
back into the furling unit.
Normally what happens is that someone's hauling it up.
You got to feed it into the slot.
We've actually got this little roller here.
So the sail gets trapped in behind here,
the actual bolt rope, and this feeds it in, helps out a lot.
So we're just going to secure that,
and then we'll secure the lines to it
and we'll put that sail up, put it away.
There's not too much wind at the moment, so--
- It's good. - Yeah.
We should be able to get it done.
And because those shackles are going
all the way up there, we're going to mouse them.
- [Pascale] Yes, we are going to mouse them.
- This lower one I won't mouse,
because I'll always be looking at it, it's down here.
But I will make sure it's nice and tight.
- [Pascale] Yeah, give that shackle pin a good tighten.
- Yeah, I moused these, like oftentimes I mouse
with stainless steel wire.
I haven't moused these ones like that,
just in case something happens
and we need to get up there and drop it.
Like if all this failed or something and I had to get up,
and the only way to get it was sort of cutting these.
I don't want to be dealing with wire.
I just want to be able to quickly
just go through a zippy tie.
- Yeah. - Yeah.
And look, that's enough to hold it, because you don't have
massive forces trying to turn the pin.
All the forces are just trying to pull the pin
through the cheeks of the shackle.
So that'll be fine, I've done it for years.
You don't need to go all the way up
sometimes with your mousing.
When you're mousing an anchor,
I'd definitely always use wire to do that.
(laid back electronic music)
Okay, so we've got Pascale to tie on the sheets.
And now just here on the bolt rope
I've put our little gadget.
And that's just going to hold this
close to the furler foil as we pull it up.
It's just like having another hand, really.
You put it on first and secure it in place.
I wonder if we can get this done before the rain starts.
What do you reckon, Pascale?
- [Pascale] Yeah, looks good.
Slow and steady, Joe.
- Pretty unlikely, isn't it?
So there's these grooves here.
And that's all that holds these sails on.
They're not hanked on okay?
It's a big foil.
You'd need massive, massive hanks to do it.
This is going in there, fit the slot.
And now if I can just make sure that this leads all right.
And you can see this thing is just--
- Oh yeah. - Leading it in, really,
really easily. - Yeah, really nice.
- Well, there we go.
She's a functioning sailboat again.
- Time to get a-cleaning.
- Get our clean on.
- She's a mouldy boat.
- It's not as bad as it has been.
Come on, let's do it.
All right, the weather's just a little bit too wet
for me to continue doing my glassing out there.
And another thing that I wanted to do
was just replace my exhaust hose.
Now, it was one complete run that just went
from the exhaust pipe and out to the lift chamber.
But I just want to put an elbow in there,
nice stainless elbow, and just make a nice redirection.
And then I'll be able to support the hose along its length.
No big deal.
If you're new to dealing with metal fittings,
and also hose and fittings, just a few things,
a couple little hints that might help your life along.
Thread tape.
This is just a type of Teflon tape.
And I've seen quite a few people,
when they're putting fittings together,
just really wrap threads up with it, hoping to seal them.
What it's really doing, 'cause it's Teflon
and it lubricates those threads a fair bit,
when you put it on it just means
that as you're tightening it, you can just get
a little bit further in there
and really snug the threads home
a bit more than you would if they were bare.
Also with stainless fittings, it prevents galling.
And galling is when stainless steel grabs really small,
microscopic particles of steel off the main faces.
And the heat that's generated as you're turning it,
in a very small, confined space,
it actually welds the steel together to some degree.
So thread tape actually prevents that.
When you're putting the tape on,
there is a right way to put it on and a wrong way.
If you just put your thumb on there
and just turn it clockwise,
righty-tighty, how you would screw it in,
that gives you some idea of which way the tape should go.
So if I turn it like that, my thumb wants to go that way.
I want to put the tape that way.
None of it's rocket science, is it?
But if you haven't seen it before,
it's probably just good info to know.
It's good.
And I'm just going to go down a couple of threads.
Down like that, and that is it.
Give it a nice push, and that's what it should look like.
Again, not just loads and loads and loads,
hoping that this stuff is going to give me a good seal.
Let's have a look.
I've already put a bit of hose on this one.
But I want to show you one more thing when it comes to hose.
That feels nice and smooth as it's going in.
And like I said, preventing galling is a big deal
in case I ever want to get this undone again.
If you don't know what I'm talking about,
galling, if you've never heard of it,
it's probably worth googling galling in 316 stainless steel.
All right, that's pretty tight already.
After I finish talking to you I will be just putting that
in a more secure, like in a vise,
and just giving that one more nip up.
But that should be fine with that tape in there like that.
Now the second bit is I'm going to put
a bit of hose on this other side, obviously.
And later on I'll be cutting it.
First I want to talk about when you're putting this,
and this is some nice expensive
Lloyd's-approved marine hose.
And when I say expensive, I'm talking $108 for 1.2 metres.
But it's worth it because my boat won't sink.
So it is wet exhaust gas hose.
And that's important in your exhaust system.
Even though this stuff, it shouldn't be dealing with
in the normal run of things.
It's coming out of a wet exhaust so it shouldn't really
have to deal with hot exhaust gases that much.
It should be pretty wet, pretty cool.
But what if something goes wrong?
So it wants to be able to resist that temperature
for a certain amount of time until you realise,
oh, hang on, there's no water coming through my engine.
Because the water that's supplied in the wet exhaust
is coming via the cooling water pump.
It's going through the engine,
doing its cooling job, coming up,
and then being actually injected into the exhaust line.
So if that pump fails, we could have some hot exhaust here,
working through this hose.
And then you've got a hole in the hose,
you've got a hole in the boat.
Anyway, enough about how much
I paid for my hose, skating away.
If you went and just wanted to sort of stick it in there,
it's rubber on steel, it really grabs.
So yet another use for the old Morning Fresh.
And when I say another use,
we use this 'cause it lathers in seawater.
So does a lot of shampoos, actually.
Just a little dab will do you.
Just chuck it on the inside there,
give it a nice wipe around.
I got plenty of splooge all over me now and on that.
And that will act as a lubricant to put that on.
Before you put it on, you want to get your nice,
expensive T clamp hose clamps, these ones that have
a screw to bring it together.
They're the ones I like to use on exhaust.
Maybe check the legal requirements.
Maybe you have to on commercial vessels.
These are what you have to use on exhaust lines.
On yachts you can get away with more.
But if you can't,
for a very long time on fishing boats,
and it's probably still the case, two hose clamps on there.
If you've got the screw top ones, double them up.
If you can't, if you don't have the good T clamps.
This one I'm not going to use just 'cause it's secondhand
and I've got a bright new shiny stainless steel one.
But if you can't get those, double up your clamps.
And when you put any clamps on,
just think about sometime in the future.
Here we're out in the open, it's really easy to access them.
But just have a look at where it's fitted.
Sometime in the future you may have to get these off.
And it's a tough job already.
So just think about your access,
which angle you're going to be able
to get tools to, and stuff like that.
Just always think about your future self
and give yourself a bit of self-care
just by making things easier.
So if you're going to put those clamps on,
access from the same direction's always nice.
And always plenty of clear working space if you can.
I know it's a boat.
It's pretty rare that that can happen.
But I'm just going to stick this on
'cause I've got a free end to just put the clamp,
rather than tear off and edit this video some more.
So wow, look at that.
That just slides right in there,
he says as he grits his teeth and strains.
But look, that's in.
And if you've ever wrestled with rubber hose,
you'll know that that was actually quite easy.
So another use for your dish washing liquid.
So I've got my other T clamp on there.
Access from the same direction.
I've looked and that will be,
in the future when it's in place,
that will be the open spot.
And T clamps are great
because you're not using a screwdriver.
Using a spanner, you can really get a great grip.
Good surface area.
And if you look at this secondhand one
you can see it's got this sleeve in here and all around,
and it really gives you a great, firm grip.
If you are going to go for screw clamps,
sometimes you'll see that they'll have
a little shield around here and all you've got is the slot.
I do prefer the ones that have a hex head as well
so you can get a small spanner on there.
That'll probably be about an eight mil.
You can go overboard.
These little things here, if you really wrench on that
you can snap those out and they'll go back to the next one.
And they can actually loosen on you.
And that's why these T clamps are so much better.
But like I said, you can double them up.
Magnets.
This little handy light pen that I've got
has a fairly weak magnet there
and a pretty good magnet there.
When you're going off and you're spending
all your hard-earned money on marine fittings,
you're going to want 316 fittings.
Now, 316's magnet is non-magnetic.
Stick a magnet on, nothing.
Often with your T clamps though,
you'll feel, well, this is a good quality one.
Look at that, no magnetism whatsoever, beautiful.
Let's have a look at this one.
Okay, none, none.
All right, Trident, I'd say these are.
Yeah, Trident, good quality clamp.
This one, excellent.
All of it.
So this particular T clamps here,
what I've seen is that this is all 316 here, non-magnetic.
But the actual bolt itself is slightly magnetic.
And that's probably because it's 304 stainless steel.
304 is slightly magnetic.
The reason for that, I would say, is again,
to prevent that galling that I spoke about earlier.
You've used two different grades of stainless steel.
It's much less likely for them
to bind and jam so you can't undo that again.
So that's what you might find.
If you're going to take a magnet to your marine store,
check the quality of your 316.
Yep, that's pretty good.
Oh, hang on.
It is, like in some T clamps they will do that.
They'll put 304 bolts in there.
Something else.
I'm pretty happy with that quality.
There's some spanners.
So there we go, not stainless, is it?
Looks stainless, but not.
What do we got?
We bled everything.
We've got the new exhaust.
We've got the new fuel pump.
And now is the moment of truth.
So let's check it out.
(machinery beeping)
There's my alarms working correctly.
(engine rattling)
(machinery beeping)
I was just checking for leaks.
I had my rag in there, I was just putting it around.
Just be really careful that you know
where the tail of your rag is, preferably not door-to-door.
Have it nice and short if you're checking for leaks
or wiping anything away and having a look.
If the end of that was to catch into a belt
and maybe wrap around your hand,
you can cause yourself a fair bit of mayhem and damage.
This little 16-horsepower engine,
it'd probably have a hard time doing that.
But some of the powerful engines,
especially if they're operating
at operating revs (snaps fingers)
Happen before you know it and that will tear an arm off.
So something to be careful of.
Probably bad practise on my part.
Okay, now while Mirrool's at anchor,
I've shut down the engine.
So I'm going to, just because I've done
a repair on the fuel system,
I'm also just going to shut down that fuel lever.
And I'm also going to shut off the water going to it.
There we go.
So if there's some sort of hose failure
or something like that, my boat won't sink.
Normally I don't do that when I'm onboard,
'cause I can monitor things.
But if I'm going to leave her here
and I don't get back tomorrow,
that's the least I can do for her.
So that's pretty much it.
The bilge pump is good and operational.
The bilges are dry at the moment.
I've turned off all the seacocks letting water come on in.
The bilge outlet is far, far above the waterline
so I feel fairly confident.
Mirrool hasn't sunk yet. (laughs)
So we're pretty happy.
All right, I might pack up
and go and see my delightful girlfriend.
All, right, well that's the hole.
The timber's in, put some bog in,
two layers of glass, and epoxy over the top.
So that's all nicely set.
So I just gave it a quick sanding with 120 grit
and a wipedown with methyl.
And I'm going to give it another wipedown
so it's absolutely dust-free.
And then I'm just going to put some thickened epoxy over,
just to fair it off so it's level with the rest of it.
And then we should be able to paint it
and you'll never know that there was
a horrible great hole in our boat.
And I guess that's the joy of fibreglass, isn't it?
It's really, really easy to modify.
Steel is easy to modify as well,
if you're a competent welder.
But if you can paint and you can fill a hole,
you can fibreglass. (laid back folk music)
It's well within most people's reach
to do a bit of basic fibreglass repair.
- [Pascale] Thank you for tuning in to Free Range Sailing.
If you enjoyed the video, please give it a like,
as it really helps get our video out to more viewers.
Also we'd love to hear your feedback and questions,
so head on over to the comments section and drop us a line.
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