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I'm in the middle of a project here to do some work on the railroad but it's
turning into as much of an Arduino project as anything else what I'm doing
is I've got a yard with four tracks on it actually here let me just show you
okay I got this yard over here with four tracks on it it's mostly a storage yard
it represents the end of the railroad and off the railroad and a bunch of
things but basically there's one two three four switches leading into it
going to four tracks and then down at the far end here
there's what's called a little ass keep track or an escape run around so
basically if a locomotive comes in this track it can disconnect from its train
here go here and zip through this and get back out again to get onto the other
end of the train and pull it back the other direction if it wants to so
previously when I first built this I built the whole thing assuming that I
was going to use these caboose industries ground throws which work
perfectly well and there's no reason not to use them so far I decided now that
I've come up with these servo motor controls I want to put those on let's go
down under here so underneath those turnouts I've got the same servo motor
setup that you saw in previous videos I'll link down the description so
there's the first one this turned out there's a second turn note there's the
third one and then down at this end there's the two for the escape track and
then up on top you can see the linkage that I got set up that just operates it
when the servo does its thing right that's exactly the same as before except
for I got more of them now so in order to make this work
I've got the servos all mounted up underneath I've got to modify the servos
by taking both of those edges off so they can mount to the baseboard like you
saw underneath and then this just metal strap can screw down over top of it so
one more of those left to do I've got the Arduino I'm using this nano and this
little breakout shield because that way I can just plug the servo straight on to
it if you notice if you notice that each of the pins is broken out with its own
ground its own voltage and then the signal so you can plug the servos
straight in or in my case since the servos are kind of spread around a
little bit you can take some of this three wire
cable and plug it on come in and then extend the servo further away which is
what I'm gonna be doing so I got to make up a few more of those cables for the
servos that are further out mount that mount that write some software oh and
then I need a control panel to control it so I've been doing some fancy
drafting here first of all I did it in inches and I don't know what the hell I
was thinking then I redid it in millimeters so that I
could actually get more precise and then since I don't have any CAD you know
tools skills ability aptitude are waiting to Inkscape which is a vector
drawing program and drew out the control panel again with little dots where I
want the this push-button switches except then I'm not using push-button
switches because I'm gonna use these touch sensors number them from a
meal bay a few weeks ago so what I'm gonna do is mount one of these touch
sensors between behind each one of those spots on the on the control panel so
that's the other thing I have to do is build the physical control panel I'll
use this as the overlay on it I'll probably laminate it maybe but I need to
put some kind of board behind that just hold it and I also have to figure out
how to make up for the thickness of this behind the paper because I don't want
the paper to be all lumpy and when it nice and smooth look vaguely
professional okay don't laugh what I'm saying that you know what I mean I want
to try anyways so I guess I'm just going to get on with it there be a few
montages and a few breakaways just to show details and stuff and here we go
now that its installed I have to figure out what what settings
or what to position for the servo motor puts the turnout in its two positions
which is where this thing comes in this thing is just another arduino nano
potentiometer and display it's almost in the key of 51 whatever they are displays
and the code on here is nothing magic it is just two of the example sketches the
knob example sketch and the example sketch for that display and then the
three wires go out to the servo so there we go and then I just adjust
this thing and watch the the points here can you see them that's in place and
just a little bit of tension on it so that is for this route which on this
turnout is I'll call that the normal route normally typically the directions
on a turnout are called normal and reversed normal is the straight through
reverse is be not so straight through in this case the reverse is the one that's
going off to the right there so I'll just make a note here that's reverse
this one 59 and then we'll just go the other way feels about right
so because these are cheap servos they're keeping trying to get to their
position that's what that fighting is is still trying so I'm gonna take care of
that in code later basically I'm just going to time out when it's not when the
button is not being pushed it just goes over for a couple of seconds then stays
there the mechanical gearing inside the servo is gonna hold it in position
regardless so there's no pressure on it there's no motor running
it's just spring tension of the wire there and underground that's holding it
in position for the control panel and just can ease this trunk of masonite I'm
just going to basically trace the size on to there use one of my actual
finished copies here it's basically the same size and just mark that on there
and cut it somewhere else now Mason cut with anything you can cut it with a saw
I'm gonna use that and just a straight edge would be easy but I'm gonna do it
over my other workbench and pretend you're watching you cut just basically
make a bunch of like passes well maybe you just met with a sharper blade than
that and it'll cut off pretty clean so now Dan we have to figure out how to
accommodate the thickness of these things we're gonna have on there one one
two three four five of them and they have to make the wiring happen somehow
so they're going to be sort of like that right underneath those positions
so if you recall from when I got these things you don't have to be you not to
touch them right on you can be a few millimeters away which is going to be
advantageous because we can put a layer of cardstock down or two to give us the
thickness that we need oh look at that that's perfect
quickly cut up a couple of those and they'll be good so this stuff is just
some kind of thick sign makers cardboard
just left over from an old thing at some store that they were tossing out so now
then two thicknesses of that which that's get in here that's just about
perfect so now I just have to cut out the holes beyond where these things go
and that is partly the reason why I printed off multiple copies of that so I
can just work through here so I'm just going to make a center hole just a mark
basically I am pretty much winging this by the way I've done a little bit of
thinking and preparation off-camera but what you're seeing it's pretty much the
first time I've tried any of these things so now then the actual sensor why
don't I just measure it Joey the sensor is one millionnaire one centimeter but
one and a half centimeters okay and the center of that is half a centimeter from
one end so
one and a half okay now I'm gonna carry you on and draw those up and square them
out and I'll be back in a second okay and that flows all marked up now it's
just a matter cutting them out and I'm gonna cut a little bit wide because
because why not right cutting against the straight edge is a good plan
now just two cutting okay there we have those all down so glue with a snug
actually I'll glue those down and I guess I'll transfer the markings on to
this as well so maybe I'll do that now so they can work on that well the glue
is drying guess what I have to do on the backboard before I glue these on to it
just put some holes in for the wires so what I ended up doing was drilling a
couple oversized holes and then cleaning it out with a with a file so next to
laminate all these pieces together again not too precise just get er done
okay now just the Clampett that ought to do so while I'm waiting for the glue to
dry I'm going to extend my five volt power bus from where it is just up under
the railroad oh you can't see that there hang on five volt power buses there
which appears at various places but I want to extend that over to the area
where I'm putting in my controls over there so I'll be using this 18 to table
it's basically Dora using something later is because they don't want too
much voltage drop over the distance so he's a little resistance wire and then I
got terminate it into that block right there and break out the voltage that I
need that a DC jumpers in here so they just have extra positions since there's
a maximum number of wires you can get into these connections just not based on
any electrical code or anything just based on the physics of it so if I need
more feeds I should have gone through that clip now then I think I'm gonna
mount the Arduino right about there on its own base board I think I'll put it
to facing that direction just so that it's easier to get out to reprogram
later cuz I don't trust my programming enough to believe for a second that it
won't need to be reprogrammed several times
and I'm not cranking these down to take they don't want to bend the circuit
board but it's sold enough that it's not going anywhere okay
I know then here's my power wires rope through there and into the block way
through there just to keep it tight tidy suppose they get shorting them but
whatever all right no servos I guess I can plug oh come on get through there
I guess I'll plug the servos in you couldn't I so according to my thing
there my code I'm using pin digital to digital for digital seven I make seven
and then for the other two I'm using eight and twelve but I have to extend
them with the extension wires I made earlier
okay that's them all connected no I need to do it switches on communes have to
wait for the glue to dry the other thing I want to do in horn still waiting for
the glue to dry is to laminate this so that they don't get too many smudges and
crap on it now if I hit my last fancy wet heat laminating machines I would use
that but I'm not so I will just use packing tape it's not going to be as
rigid but that doesn't really matter it is going to be smudge proof and clear
and it will add a certain amount of durability to the paper - and that piece
wasn't quite big enough you go low budget om and eating once the the rest
of the control panels finished I'll just glue that on top in order to get the
signal from the control panel to the arduino which is about 6 or so feet away
5 feet away something like that i cut a bunch of lengths of stranded wire just
out of an old some old cable and crimped on ends single ends for the switches and
this double end to get power from the arduino out to the switches and then
slipped some heat-shrink over those just to hold them together in a bundle and
I'll shrink them down just to make them a little bit less like an ugly mob and a
little bit easier to handle when I'm installing them oh yeah it's dry and
there's a bonus it's nice and flat too so you may remember from my capacitive
touch sensor playing around video I'll put a link up in the corner don't mister
gription or something the these touch sensors need some capacitance to
desensitize them a little bit otherwise the the masonite and the
covering paper and whatnot just make some trigger constantly so after a bit
of a delay I've got a bunch of 50/50 pico farad capacitors from China under
normal circumstances that these did have to wait until there's a mailbag but it
cysts or right there what they are so here we go fifty Pico farad capacitors
surface mount way more than I need because that's just how you order things
from China so we'll try them out and there's the ones that I was
experimenting with earlier so I'll just start my experiments back there again
and I'll disorder those ones and start or one of these on and see how it works
that's a little excessive but I think it'll work yeah it's ugly okay that's
that rigged up I've got power on it just put some Mason ain't behind it
and it's not triggering when I touch it it does trigger put some paper in front
of it and it'll still trigger when I touch it but it's not triggering
otherwise that's exactly what I want and I just have to put capacitors on the
rest of them oh and one more thing I've decided in my code that I want to
use the internal pull-up resistors on the Arduino rather than using external
pulldown resistors just for Hardware simplicity so in that case I have to
make these things so they are always high and go low on active and if you
remember from when I was looking at these things there's those a and B pads
there so the 80 pads a pair of a pads if I short them that will make it active
low and the B set of pads just for fun toggles between momentary areas either a
momentary or toggle and I'm gonna leave it momentary which is open all right so
that's gonna fit over there and hang Slee but first I got to get these things
in and get the wires soldered onto them weird they all though is the other ones
so one of the wires is for each one the signal wire is going to be one of these
this one is power wire I'm positive a negative 5 volts and then
the signal pins those are going to come up from the bottom but I think I'm just
going to tack the power wires onto each one to start and and go from there
this is going to be a little bit experimental ok here's where the control
panel wearing gets interesting so I've got power weeds on each of the each of
these guys already I just need to put the signal wire on and you can see if it
signal airs I'll poke through from the back and the connector eyes the nd is
way over here so I just do each one of these in turn and they should have that
dealt with
that's kind of blobby there we go yeah cut that off flush and then I can see if
my hope my nefarious plan worked here so those ways go in through there that fits
down into the hole nice and flush and there it is let's put a little spot of
hot go underneath that and then I can glue this on it now there's a lot of
ways that I could attach all these power wires together on the back of here I
could use terminal block or on those fancy we go lever nuts I actually like
those but I don't have any that can take six wires you know what just old-school
twist and solder nothing wrong with that especially for
something that's a permanent install
normally I'm not a fan of these adhesive backed tie wrap pads but in this case I
think I'll make an exception because I think it will do the job and that way I
don't have to worry too much about putting an extra screw through there
then I'll take this whole bundle back that way and then the whole thing is
secured at once
before I fully cinch that just make sure everything's in there and held that
looks relatively reasonable nothing super tight there we go
we'll just spray it in the laundry sink don't tell mrs. Kay
Spray glue the kind of a new tool in my arsenal I'm not super used to it yet
yeesh well back to the bench so I just got some players underneath that just so
the waiters don't get a little whack when I'm doing this
trying to hold it by the edges hopefully get this on here reasonably no that's
not right it's a little high I don't know what that was it just fell off the
corner of my workbench but I'm not concerned about it right now well that
looks that looks all right the other thing I did just deceive myself a little
bit of insanity leader is to just label the switches just in order 1 2 3 4 5 so
that I can refer to my notes and figure out where to plug them into the Arduino
later
okay that looks like that's everything now I just got to do the code so here's
what the code that I came up with looks like it's mostly just glued together
from various different examples and stuff as I tend to do so the servo
library obviously create a bunch of servos five of them create a bunch of
inputs from the digital inputs call them touch pins then I know normal
programmers hate magic numbers but I couldn't come up with any other way of
doing it basically this is the position values for each of the servos when
they're in in their normal in the reverse positions I showed you earlier
the little thing that I was using to determine those just with a knob and
screen and another Arduino so that's all the different positions that's a
variable for toggling the the crossover because I want to push once and have it
go this way push a second time and have it go the other way that's just a very
well for that set all the inputs to pull up because I'm using the touch sensors
in a on means low mode so off or normal means pulled up and then I'll do the
several attach because you have to do that before you do anything to the
servos and that's the pins that they're all going on to then I send them all the
servos to their normal starting position wait for half a second for them all to
get there and then detach the servos normally most sketches that I've seen
don't do that you attach them and leave them there for
the for the duration I'm doing this because they just keep hunting just a
little bit and with five of them it tends to get a bit noisy then the loop
so I've got an if statement for each of the each of the push buttons or each of
the possum conditions I guess which sort of matches
the push buttons why do I keep calling the push buttons the touch sensors so if
I hit the first one it moves servo 1 and it attaches it writes the
normal position and then waits half a second and detaches it track 2 does the
same thing except for it moves several one and servo to track 3 sets servo 1 2
and 3 track 4 also sets servos 1 2 and 3 but in a slightly different orientation
for 3 it's reverse normal reverse and for 4th reverse normal normal
and as always wait and then detach and then the escape track crossover which is
touch input number 5 this is where I use this variable and so if the variable is
0 I'll set the two of them both to reversed and then flip that variable to
1 if else so if it's if the button is pushed and that's not 0 if it's in fact
1 or anything else but it can only be one I'll flip the two servos both to the
normal position and then wait and then that's the end of the loop that's all it
is it's nothing too fancy and I'm sure real programmers are going to say
there's a lot more efficient ways to do it if you know of those feel free to
share down in the comments I may add that to this or at the very least it'll
help other people get their programming to better than what I'm doing I'm going
to upload this code for anyone that actually wants it to have their very own
copy for whatever reason for laughing and pointing at me I guess billion could
be down in the description as always already so here it is installed
there's the panel you see a little bit of glow from the LEDs in the back of
those touch switches if I do another one of these I'll
probably take those LEDs off what for now if the lights are out in the room no
it looks kind of cool I don't know if I'm gonna do any make time running or
not anyway here's there's the the front three switches and I hope you can see
this so I'm gonna push there's number one two three and four so right now with
it set to track four and run this guy through yeah yeah
pull him back out no I'll subtract one and he can come through this way all the
way to the back of track one etc now then for the crossover oops
you can't sit the wrong way there we go the crossover right now track one on the
track two or straight through and hit that it crosses over this way
so now we can do this pretty slick and then set it back to normal there we go
so again the point of that is so that a locomotive can just pull a train
straight in and escaped back out and do other things at the other end of the
yard so there you go that was a fun project and I think that's going to make
my yard a lot more useful to them easier and quicker to work in I hope you found
that interesting maybe some of you got something useful out of it something you
can apply your own railroads that's great anyone has any questions or
comments as always leave them down in the comment section there are be a
couple of links down in the description to various things that I talked about in
here thanks again for watching I will talk to you later
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