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How to prepare to climb Mont Blanc.
This is a question that every great adventurers have or will wonder someday.
I decided to make this video because I asked myself this question for a week last summer
just before I reach the summit, and I would have liked if someone had tell me
I am about to explain.
Note that I climbed Mont Blanc only once and I'm not a professional guide.
In my case, I arrived in Chamonix In August 2016 alone, with the intention
to maybe climb the famous Mont Blanc.
But as soon as I saw the highest peak of every countries member of the European Union,
my intension quickly become a necessity.
I then look for information with peoples all around the village
articles and forums to know what I needed to climb the peak.
Almost everyones, articles and forums, tried to discourage to climb the mountain.
If you listen to me now, you probably already read and heard several
dissuasive articles about it, you to.
Do not worry, I will not be this flap joys, because I did not listen to the instructions,
and I walked on top of the mountain.
If you want to climb Mont Blanc, you can.
Well still have to be realistic, if you're the type to breath hard for two
minutes after climbing a little staircase, I will not tell you that you can't climb Mont Blanc.
No because anyone who wishes to achieve a goal, can.
But you'll need a serious training before you climb the great white beast.
Yes it is possible, five years earlier, I was fat, I weighed 266 pounds and
I was out of breath a few minutes after climbing a small staircase.
So the most important thing to remember is that if you want to climb Mont Blanc, you can.
So now here is my list of six things to prepare and to know before you you go for the Mont Blanc.
First, training. This is not to be taken lightly,
almost all rescue interventions on Mount Blanc are to rescue
exhausted, poorly trained or poorly acclimated people.
So be sure to be in shape the morning of the big day.
The best training to prepare
to climb a mountain, is to climb mountains.
No, it's not running, cycling, '' Crossfit '' no, it is to climb mountains.
This makes sense after all, you'll do exactly
the same exercise as on the big day. So you are sure that you'll train the right muscles.
To give you an idea of what you will have to achieve,,
on the most popular trail you will have to walk 11km to the summit
with an elevation gain of 2600 meters.
And remember, what goes up comes down, then yes, you will redo the same route in reverse.
I can' go down anymore on this damn mountain!
Earlier, I was at the shelter up there. The one with is small on top of the mountain there.
And just before I was on top of Mont Blanc, which is twice as high as that.
I'm tired.
I'm almost done.
And if you think that going down is easier then going up, you put a finger in your eye.
Down is easier on cardio but is much more harder for
the entire body that must retain your balance and absorb every shocks of every step.
So equip yourself with a bag, and let's go have some
fun trek in mountain.
Second, you must be prepared to face the following dangers.
The ascent of Mont Blanc is dangerous.
On average, eighteen peoples dies on Mont Blanc every year.
Regardless of the trail you will take,
you will expose yourself to rocks falls, avalanches and crevasses.
Although security measures may be taken to prepare for these events,
they are impossible to predict. You can wear a helmet to protect yourselft
from rocks, but they can still hit you in the legs.
And an avalanche, everything can go well, and the next second, you find yourself
helpless in the path of this white monster.
And about the crevasse, they are huges hollow in the ground, often covered with snow.
Thousands of peoples can walk over
without problems before it open right under your feets.
I had to step over one on my climb, it was so deep, I could not even see the bottom.
So be aware of the dangers that will be expose.
Third, the equipment.
Unless your name is Kilian Jornet
Mont Blanc is not a little run of 4 hours and 57 minutes round trip to the summit
from the village church.
Yes, you understood, 4 hours and 57 minutes
this is the world record since 2013.
The climb normally takes two days, from a station, already high in altitude.
The most important rule is to bring only the essentials.
You are not going on a week expedition.
you go on a two days adventure with two well equipped shelters on the way.
So pack light.
I found myself a small forty liters bag in Chamonix, and that was
enough to pack everything I needed.
First, you'll need a helmet to protect your head against rocks.
This is essential to cross the Couloir du Goûter.
There is rock falling all the time.
Generally, people helps each others on that crossing.
On arrival, you will remain in the safe area , and notify the next group to go through if
stones are falling on them.
They will do the same for you then.
I am in the most dangerous area. There are rocks falling all the time.
They are difficult to hear while crossing since every step you'll do,
will drop others rocks.
I'll give you a tip, when someone
scream rock, stone, watch out, or anything of that kind, make yourself the smallest possible,
the closer to the ground and protect your head and your most sensitive areas like the face,
your neck or back.
Do not do as these two geniuses who
looked directly on the projectile when I shouted ''ROCK''.
Yes, because when we do something like that, you may receive the projectile
in question right in your face.
And that's exactly what happened to that genius.
All this to say, wear a helmet.
An ice ax : It will serve you once or twice on all the trip, and you will be very
happy to have it if you ever stumble on a side or an other on a place a like this one.
A harness and carabiner : If you go on solo and something happens to you,
it will likely be much easier to rescue you with a harness that someone will be
able to clip you.
For those I've seen in a group, they were
all on string.
I must admit I do not really understand the technique.
From what I have been told, the goal of
the chain is to be attached to each to the other to retain mutually if
someone had a fall or a crevasse would open.
As I said at the beginning I am not an expert.
But I have the impression that if a member of a group a fall in
a place like this, he would only take the entire group with him.
In fact, the right move to do if ever a member falls on the right side, would jump to on the left one.
But well if everyone do it, there must
be a good reason so please, do not think that I advise you to not chain yourself with your group.
A light swaeter with long sleave.
If you make a summer ascent
the beginning of the climb will be fresh, but at this altitude, the sun hits strong.
So wear something light that will protect you from the sun.
A small coat. At a certain altitude, the cold sets in,
but you'll still be going up so no more than a small coat or you'll get too hot.
A good heavy coat: At the top, it's cold, and the wind can
be very strong, so if you don't want to give up almost at the summit,
bring a good warm jacket to put over your little coat.
A hood to properly protect your face when cold.
Snow pants. The small size, to be able to walk well and break the wind.
Sun glasses. The sun on the snow at this altitude,
it's much too bright for the human eye.
It's the same for your skin, so put sunscreen!
For your feet, you will see most People with this boot.
La Sportiva Nepal Evo.
To have used on several hiking trip, this is the best boot for hiking.
But it is rather painful while going down
because it is far too rigid.
I did the Mont Blanc with this soft Lowa boot and great crompons, withount any problems.
f I had to climb it again, I would go with these shoes and a good pair of warm socks.
But it depends on you.
I prefer light and nimble feet.
Others prefer to have a good solid foot to minimize the risk of spraining the ankle injury.
If you opt for the rigid boot solution
make sure you have a boot compatible to crampons.
She must have this little clip in front and behind.
If you are unsure, choose the boot, it will keep you warm and is much safer.
You will need crampons, from Refuge taste, you will be at all times
on snow, and many places are very steep.
Food and water. You will spend a lot of calories, and
regardless of the mountain you hike, make sure you never run out of water.
It is a mistake that we all made only once in a lifetime.
If you have not already, did it, make sure
that that it wont happen to you on Mont Blanc.
Man can survive several weeks without food, but only days without water.
Your phone.
If the signal allows it, you will be able to call for help.
And of course, you can go for a selfie on the summit.
Oh yeah, because I wear it always on me.
a Suunto.
Thanks to this watch, I know not only the time but also the distance I have traveled,
the elevation which I am, she warned me in case of incoming storms, if I get lost it will show me the way back
step by steps, I can know my exact coordinate which is very convenient
when you manage to call for help, and I know how much time I have left
finish my trip before sunset.
It is a tool that I use last
four years, and I never, I would adventure without it.
Fourth, choose which route to take.
There are two official trails.
La voie du Goûter, and la voie des Cosmiques.
La voie des Cosmiques begins at the Aiguille du Midi,
and although a little shorter, it is much more technical.
In addition, you expose yourself to higher risk in avalanches and crevasses.
For your first experience, I you recommends to use the same route as
I took, La voie du Goûter.
This trail begins at La station du Nid d'Aigle,
that you'll reach from Chamonix effortlessly with a cable car and a train.
The station is located at 2372 meters above sea level.
From there you must climb 2600 meters over a distance of eleven kilometers to reach the top.
The first day you walk on
large rocks, on reasonable inclination level at first, and very steep at the end.
It goes up quite steeply.
It is not climbing but almost.
You can rarely fall from high even if it seems very steep on the images.
Two shelters are on the way, where you can spend the night.
The Tête Rousse refuge at 3167 meters,
which can accommodate up to 74 people per night and lots of tents outside.
Higher up to 3885 meters, the refuge du Gouter able to take up to 120 people per night.
It is at this shelter I suggest you spend the night.
Most people ascent Mont Blanc in two days.
The objective of the first day is to reach the refuge and to acclimatize.
The second day is to reach the top then go back down to the station.
As the second day is the hardest,
you better do as much as possible on the first day.
The great problem of these shelters is that night must be booked at least three months
in advance to ensure a place.
You can follow the links in the description
to consult and book available places.
But how do you know if the weather will be favorable for the expedition?
Because if it's not great, forget the project,
you not only put your life at risk, but you also will risk the
lives of people who may come to your rescue.
For my part, I waited in the days of Chamonix duo perfect a week watching the weather radar.
The day before my departure, I refreshed
the booking page every minute for hours, and finally, miraculously,
a place was freed.
I then completed my booking sheet to lightning speed and got me.
You should know that these are shelters,
even if there are no more beds available, nobody can forbid you to get in.
The keepers will probably not be lenient, but as said the cook in my youth hostel
; you're going to take a sermon and then you can sleep warm.
In this shelter, you can eat a good hot meal, fill your water reserve
and food, go for a number one and two and event take a shower.
At this altitude, it's a luxury.
That's awesome, I'm at 12,600 feet in altitude and I eat spahetti.
Hot.
Well it's expensive but... They deliver it by helicopter so I can understand.
Prepare ear plug, there are about
six bedrooms per floor with ten beds each, and no wall is completely closed for safety reasons.
And as we live in a world full of idiots, be assured that at least five of them
will have a very festive spirit and speak too loud.
At least eight of them will realize that after a long discussion...
Oh... Shuuttt, I just realized that some peoples are sleeping...
OF COURSE, IDIOT! WE ARE IN A DORM.
Half of them will keep talking anyway.
And of course, ten of them will snore, but we can't blame them.
It's not their fault.
So just do not forget your plugs and please, do not be the moron
that wakes everyone in the dorm.
The adventure continues very early next morning.
From 2 o'clock, you will hear alarms in the dormitory.
Yes, 2o'clock.
This will give you a little less than an hour to have lunch and dress to go out.
At 3AM, almost everybody will
already have left the shelter on their way to the summit.
But why get up so early?
It's simple, at this time, if you are
fast enough, you will reach the summit just on time to see the sun rise.
If you want to add a little magic to your ascent, make sure to cross
this step in the night of August 12 to 13.
That way, you will be able to see
a lot of shooting stars, since it the most active night of the Perséides.
From experience I can tell you, it was magical.
Fifth, acclimatization
The summit of Mont Blanc is located at 4808 meters high.
At a such altitude, the oxygen level in air is only 11.9%.
At sea level, this level is at 20.9%.
Only 57% of the amount of oxygen
that you are accustomed to breathe will remain on top.
In other words, your body will have to work much harder to supply your organs.
For example, at rest, my heart beats normally 55 beats per minute.
When I woke up at the refuge, my heart pumping at 85 beats per minute,
that's 55% faster than normal.
And I was still far from the top.
Then the week before attempting Mont Blanc, have fun in smaller
Mountain around Chamonix.
By asking your body to force more on
high altitude, your body will multiply your red blood cells.
The red blood cells are blood cells which has a function to deliver oxygen
from lungs to the organs.
That way, you will be trained to
the effects of altitude.
But beware, somes peoples are very intolerant to altitude.
And do not think that because you are in excellent physical shape,
it will not be a problem for you, no one can know if its body is able to tolerate
the effects of high altitude until you have experienced.
Sixth, a guide.
In the village everyone strongly advise against you climb without a guide.
This is normal, for 600 euros a day, Guides are driving the local economy.
If you really do not feel comfortable go for it alone, use their services.
But if you have some experience in the mountaineering, you probably do not
need their services.
After all, your guide will give you
advise throughout your ascent.
And if we judged by the actions of some of them, their advice
are not always good.
You remember the man with the blue coat
in le couloir du Goûter?
The one who was looking the rocks comming.
Well it was a guide.
Some of them seem to feel
invincible judging by all those who venture
in the mountains without helmet to protect there head.
I will not tell you not to use their services, but the Mont Blanc guides
are human beings like you and I.
No, they are not superheroes.
They are experienced people.
I think the best advice I can give you is this one.
If you are at the bottom of Mont Blanc right now, you must at least try to
to climb it otherwise you will regret it for a lifetime
to at least not give it a try.
If during your ascent you feel
hurt, tired or insecure, do not risk your life unnecessarily and turn around.
You have nothing to prove to anyone.
So if we summarizes it fro the beginning..
Get train, ask yourself if you are really ready for
the dangers you would face.
Falling rocks, avalanches and crevasses.
Prepare your equipment. Bag, helmet, ax, harness, karabiners,
sweaters, small coat big coat, hood, snow pants, sunglasses, cream
solar, boots, cleats, water, food, your phone, Suunto and plugs
to sleep well.
Choose which way to go and if you
want a guide, book it early.
And do not forget to acclimatize to the altitude
before the big day.
To finish. I wish you a beautiful climb.
Remember that climbing Mount Blanc is not a little walk.
Every years peoples like you and I lost there life trying to climb the mountain.
So be very careful and have fun.
Good luck!
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