Hi, Alan Stratton, from As Wood Turns. (www.AsWoodTurns.com) I had a block of elm that was laying around
in my shop. It came from another club member. I decided it was time to turn it. It was a
very thick block. So, I decided the best thing was to make a lidded bowl with the block.
I turned it in pieces. It is essentially the equivalent to two bowls: The base and the
lid and a little finial too. Meanwhile, however, the time is rapidly approaching
for the Christmas Ornament challenge. November is the submission period. Remember to plan
and get your in. No video required this year. So it is open to everybody, any crafts, all
ornaments. But, for now, let's make this nice elm cross
grain lidded bowl. I've prepared this block of elm by drilling
a ¼" hole to receive the screw chuck and cutting a rough round on the bandsaw. As I
inspected the cut wood, I'm concerned about some checks on one side that run across the
grain. I don't know whether they are from drying or from wind shakes. Regardless, I'll
keep track of them to see if this can yield a nice bowl. The wood seems dry despite the
size of the block. Whoever harvested the elm, painted the end grain with latex paint. That
may have helped somewhat but is not my preferred green wood treatment. Easy does it mounting
the wood. The lathe is very slow and I let go very quickly. Then tightened it on the
screw chuck and brought up the tail stock for support. I would not trust this heavy
wood solely to the screw chuck. Of course, I have to cut my tenon. As I finish this section,
I'm marking and evaluating the checks again. This will be a lidded bowl. I hesitate to
do too much rounding over before determining where the lid will fall. This is bigger than
my parting tool but I fear cutting it on the bandsaw. My thoughts dwell on this while I'm
turning. But first, I need a tenon on the lid portion.
In the end, I decided to go as deep as I can with the parting tool. Then band saw the remainder.
But, after I went as deep as I could, I managed to break out the remaining cylinder. So, no
trip to the saw. With the base section still mounted, I'm
hollowing this now with my large bowl gouge. Some may say to always cut from the outside
to the middle as if each cut is the last cut. Well, I don't think so. Instead, I like
to hog out as much as I can as quickly as I can. Then for the last bit, I can take lighter
cuts and blend the surface. Almost the last task is to form the lip on the lid interface.
I had to stop and apply CA glue to the checks. Now after mounting the lid section, the first
task is to mate the lid to be base. I don't want a suction fit – this is a large, cross
grain section. That would never do. Instead, I want a loose fit for the lid over the base
section. Before I can do much hollowing, I need to
define more of the top surface. Unfortunately, this is between the headstock and the work
– opposite my end camera. You'll have to watch the top camera. I'm working to
form an ogee shape starting with a large bead from the middle to the outside. Then cut a
cove in the outer portion of the bead and blend the surfaces.
Then I can return to hollowing. But before going too far, I need to mark and cut an expansion
mortise so I can reverse mount the top. Yes, I could use the Cole jaws. But, as long as
I can do it with a shallow mortise that is easily hidden mortise, I'll do it this way.
Now, I'm reversing the lid for fine tuning the upper surface. The hole in the middle
is from the screw chuck. I'll use it for a knob for the lid. I found out later that
I need to expand it. Now for the knob. I've mounted a piece of
scrap walnut for a simple knob. After rough rounding, I cut down the end to ¼" for
the tenon then reversed it into my long nose jaws. But the tiny tenon could not take the
pressure. Well, I have more length, so I try again. After cutting a tenon, I try again.
Again it breaks off. The walnut is just not strong enough. Finally, with the little bit
left, I went for a 3/8" tenon. This tenon is strong enough to survive. But, I'll have
to drill out the top hole to fit. Now on the Cole jaws to finish the bottom.
I've measured the thickness and have more than enough for a good foot. I do have to
slow down while using the Cole jaws. They produce a nice fan effect.
Then sign the bottom with my wood burner before sanding it just a little more with fine grit
to remove the scorching. Finally, I'm wiping a soaking coat of walnut
oil, re-applying oil to any dry spots. It brightens up nicely.
This elm bowl has turned out nice. I like the matt finish from the walnut oil so I will
not buff it. Some bowls cry out for a lid. A lidded bowl is like three projects in one.
Bottom bowl, Top bowl, and miniature finial. This bowl was fun and not difficult to turn.
Please give this video a thumbs up, subscribe on my website, tell your friends and send
me your comments and questions. Every week I make a new woodturning video. Please wear
your full face shield – goggles are not enough protection. Until next week's video
this is Alan Stratton from As Wood Turns dot com.
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