Unlike Nowruz, celebrations of a western new year's eve are not a thing in Iran.
Nonetheless, the resolve to prepare a traditional meal for Howzak House's guests at the time is strong.
Mina, the chef de cuisine, of the darling kitchen at Howzak
recommends some Gormeh Saabzi, Saffron Rice and Gheimeh Bademjoon
for this global-community-style feast.
Tunes of setar emerges from the basement,
where Babak - one half of the Howzak duo is tucked-in to a Persian Korsi,
a common Iranian low table with a heater underneath a sizeable futon
That was beautiful
The names 'Iran' and 'Persia' are always used interchangeably and understandably so with reference to the Persian empire,
Zoroastrianism and a long history of second wave civilization
While some provinces of Iran each command their own historical importance
Pasargad or Fars province is home to what the Greeks referred to as 'The City of Persians'
or Persepolis.
Located approximately 50 kilometers away from the nearest city of Shiraz
Persepolis is what remains today of the ceremonial capital of the formidable Achaemenid Empire.
The sheer size of the complex, the sculpted details of each rock,
stairway and the stepping stone
is something one can only recognise and appreciate in person.
Everything else is just a rendition
A short hike up the periphery of this complex
and you can soak-in not only the entirety of the ruins,
But also get a panoramic view of the mountain belt
against the gorgeous clear blue sky.
Through its complex cultural past and wavemaking political climate,
Iran's architecture has achieved its own distinct dialect
that reflects across its palaces, mosques and even churches.
The Nasir ol Molk mosque while appearing like a regular place of worship from a distance
is anything but that.
As you draw closer and walk around the courtyard
every painted tile and subtle detail are what dub it the 'Pink Mosque'
Due to the generous use of the color
but if one is to step inside,
the coupling of stained glass windows and the morning light passing through them
manifests itself as a living kaleidoscope
its patterns and colors,
capable of bringing tranquility to even the least devout person in the world.
While atmospheric changes and the sheer age of the structure does cause the tiles and arches to fade and crack,
it is heartening to see carvers, modellers and artists are hard at work
perched over ladders redoing each tiles, painting each mosaic
painting each mosaic in a well funded effort to preserve the art and architecture for posterity.
And around five months
we spent time to renovate the...
the House
You guys are from Isfahan right? No
So why Isfahan?
Because
Actually Isfahan is a special city..
and also I lived in Isfahan.
Me also, after my university, I stayed in the city and start working and...
We had lots of friends in this city, so I lived here.
stayed here in this city and..
Nassim
because she had lots of projects when she was studying at university
Babak and Nassim setup and run 'Howzak House',
a sustainable bed&breakfast located in the old-town part of Isfahan,
a historic city located six hours away from Tehran.
Isfahan, the once dazzling capital of ancient Persia;
nicknamed 'Nesf-e-jahan' or Half of the world
is now the third largest metropolis
and home to possessing palaces,
a public square - Naqsh-e-Jahan -- one of the largest in the world
and Si-o Seh Pol
an iconic 33 arch bridge, in what is the oldest Armenian Quarter of the world.
How important do you think is Chai in Iran?
Wow..
Maybe in Iran people can... don't have food, but they can not *not drink tea
Ya, I mean it's a huge part of the culture here right? Yes, of course that's right.
I think Iranian people have...
maybe...
10 times in a day
drink tea and
It is..
big one- something like this.
For example, the young people...
We make tea,
something like Ghoori. I don't know in English..
okay, like a flask?
Yes, and have it till end of the night. okay.
but for example my grandmom...
She makes tea and drink it fresh and after that the next time they make it again
and they make it again and they make it again.
Tea or Chaiee as it's called in Iran is more than a warm brew in a cup,
it is a national sentiment,
a beacon of the ever-so-alive Iranian spirit.
Traditional tea houses act as communal spaces for cultural and political dialogue,
entertainment
and even as living heritage of the kind, that leads one down the lanes of Persian lineages and a glorious past.
Traditionally Iranians mix one part of hot and concentrated black tea,
typically Ceylon, with two parts of boiling water.
Nabaat or Rock Candy made of saffron and rose water - is used instead of sugar to add sweetness.
Azadegan Traditional Tea House in Isfahan's Naqsh-e Jahan Square is an iconic stop,
starting from its passageway - lined with dusty lamps and ye old radios
to the tubular cave like hall filled with enough mementos and keepsakes of several irani generations.
Everywhere you look, you feel like you know this country in an inch better.
Tea houses range from the likes of Azadegan -
ample of bells and whistles to tranquil settings spacious enough to accommodate a piscina.
Tehran's Azari tea-house is an unmissable cultural melting pot
held together by ceaseless flow of tea along with Bamiyeh or pestles of piping hot Dizi,
But more notable are the musical acts that grace its deep heart like room
where people clap and rejoice to the tunes of santur played by maestros.
In a nation governed by a president, supreme leader, their associates - most of whom are men
women represent a very small piece of the pie
Women can drive cars, but not bikes or scooters
they're looked down upon at as 'unladylike'.
When stepping outside a headscarf is a must
although the boundaries of head coverage are constantly pushed by the ever so fashionable iranian women.
Under dark colored manteau or Iranian trench coats/ capes and jackets
that cover feminine contours can be the actual outfit.
The rules are tightened in and around places of religious significance
with the Chador / an extremely long - all encompassing cloak, taking center stage.
The stringency of the scarf,
is it to avoid attention from the opposite sex?
Or does it end up piquing the male gaze that much more?
As a male, I wasn't subjected to this
but it was very much palpable in the air
that the women of iran pick, face and fight the battles that will allow them access to their fundamental rights.
I've been spending my time, most likely last three years more in Iran because of the type of dog rescue I do
Have a little sanctuary that I try to rescue dogs and help them
Because there is no animal right!
so there are people like me trying to do the right things and it's not very easy.
Maryam Talaee
a fierce track rider, and an even fiercer Women's rights advocate and animal activist
is constantly campaigning for women's rights-
whether its for participation in motorcycle track racing or other matters of public interest.
She also dedicates a great deal of time and energy in running a dog rescue and rehabilitation center
Which in Iran is no easy feat
Since for those who don't know
Dogs as house pets are condemned in the Islamic Republic of Iran
Iran changed in many ways since the time I was growing up. It's many ways good
Especially for woman; because we are doing new things like..
we do biking, we do bigger stuff that
before you couldn't believe that people can do in Iran.
fashion changed,
movie industry changed in a very good way like international
And I'm really actually happy to see this kind of movement last few years
There are stuff that it's actually bothering me that I'm hoping that in future that we can change it
I hope.
Gormeh Sabzi which is very famous food.
lots of Iranian people love Gormeh Sabzi
and.. it will be a home-made
Has to be home-made. Yes!
and also rice
rice with saffron
the Tahdig! Yeah
This Kurdish gentleman is saying..
Turkmen tent, for the entrance- from one side, it has a different design.
outside has different design so when we are upstairs, I will explain to you how they are woven
cut!
Vali Ansari is widely lauded on the internet as the guide and host for the Northeastern city of Mashhad.
His nonchalant, informative, warm and affordable home-stay in the heart of the city
comes recommended in every guidebook of Iran.
a fact verified by his eponymous street sign at the corner of the alley by his home.
This is called Four Season Design.
Kurdish Kilim
Kilim means carpet with no pile.
So this has four seasons. This was woven by the Kurdish nomads of this province
near Quchan, Quchan area.
In this province, you can find Baluchi rugs.
Which they are dark colors and then you have Kurdish rugs
and then we have these double faced silk carpets.
This is a double faced Turkmen carpets
Workwise Vali is learned enough to be attributed as an expert on Persian rugs.
He's well-versed in..
The genesis.
Fabric, stretching techniques
and most importantly methods of carpet repair.
If you remember I told you about nomadic rugs of this province?
I forgot to tell you that there are in towns of these province such as Masshad,
Bojnord,
Ayan,
and then in these towns like Kashmar
they make urban carpets.
Urban carpets are usually different from Nomadic.
The Nomadic rugs are usually woven by these Nomadic people,
there is no designer who draws the design, there's no...
wool spinner whose spins the wool...
and there is no...someone who dyes the wool.
Usually the Nomads they dye the wool themselves,
They spin their wool by hand themselves.
The design they receive it from their family, so the design is....
done by their hearts.
While the city that Vali belongs to -
Mashhad - is known to everyone as the holiest spot in Iran
due to the residence of the Imam Reza Shrine,
it is also the centre of Iran's world renowned carpet industry,
particularly known for its Nomadic Rugs
with aesthetic influences going back to prehistoric times -
unparalleled craftsmanship from Kurdistan,
and pockets of Afghanistan.
We're still a few hours away till the clock strikes 12
and the aroma of the rich stew, fragrant rice and gormeh sabzi spreads into Howzak's courtyard.
Howzak's plates of food on this chilly evening
bear the inimitable signatures of people who gave that extra bit to lay down this binding meal.
People who can be only convicted of caring too much.
The night gets chillier with a collective admiration of Hafez's poetry tapping our souls gently.
Something that I believed...
Aahh...
is that Iranian people..
They're so kind
and they really love to have relation...
with people in all over the world.
That's true.
we hope that
see lots of people in our country...
and also, we hope to go to your country,
and the other country in all over the world
and...
we didn't...
Ya, no...
I think that the life is too short,
so it's better to be friend in each other.
Meals..
They can bind you the way a conversation cannot,
or start conversations where there were none,
they forge an intimacy as if the person across from you at the table was not a stranger at all,
but a long lost friend.
A few thousand miles away from family,
but I was right at home,
and not cold at all.
You
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