Hello, everyone. Welcome to Beaver's Hobby channel.
This is the review of Atomic DRZ,
the first ever production 1/28 scale RWD RC drift car.
This is one of the most significant cars in the RC history
because it's the first ever production of 1/28 scale or Mini-Z size RWD RC drift car.
Before this there were only DIY chassis with varying degree of success.
Now that we know what a milestone this is, let's take a look at the car.
This car has 2 types of package.
The first one is chassis with electronics, this one comes with micro brushless sensorless ESC, micro gyro and a 5g digital servo.
This package cost 199USD and it's the one I have.
With this package you'll have to provide your own radio for both transmitter and receiver,
brushless motor,
2S lipo battery maximum dimensions 18x15x46mm,
wheels for Mini-Z AWD
and finally Mini-Z body for 94mm wheelbase if you want.
The other package is chassis only.
So apart from what I mentioned earlier you'll also have to provide your own brushless ESC, gyro and servo.
This package costs 129 USD which is 70 dollars cheaper.
So if you already have your own electronics or having something in mind like brushless motor with sensor
for example Ensotech or Team powers then you don't have to pay extra for things you don't need.
And as you may have seen it in my unboxing video already, this car comes as a kit.
So you'll have to build it yourself or have someone else to build it for you.
I don't know… you do you.
The chassis is carbon fibre plate 1.5mm thickness.
If you think it looks rather familiar like you've seen it somewhere before, you're absolutely right!
Because from the centre to the back it is lifted entirely from AMR, the RWD touring car.
It has double wishbone suspension,
fully adjustable camber, toe, ride height for both front and rear.
And also adjustable caster and track width at the front.
To achieve high steering angle it uses sliding rack steering.
As you can see this works perfectly.
It comes with gear differential that is really tight and need a lot of run in to make it a working differential.
However this being a drift car so I left the diff as it is and it works like a solid axle or locked diff.
It's also fully equipped with ball bearings.
The shocks can be filled with grease to add some dampening.
Stock wheelbase is 94mm with optional 90mm chassis plate.
There are 2 battery mounting positions on stock wheelbase so you can set the weight bias slightly to the front or to the back.
As for the electronics if you use Atomic ESC and gyro,
you'll have to change the plug on the battery to JST-XH 2.0mm.
And for the receiver you'll have to change the plug to JXT-ZH 1.5mm.
The included drift tyres are curved for front wheels and flat for rear wheels.
Even though this car is rear wheel drive, it uses the wheels from Mini-Z AWD.
So keep that in mind when buying the wheels because as I said earlier, they are not included.
The chassis is very well-designed.
There's minimal slop in the suspension just enough to make it move freely.
The steering is very precise but it's also depends on how good the servo is.
The shocks are impressive. Once they are filled with grease they work like oiled shocks.
Now, let us look at how I build this car.
What was the experience and what you should look out for.
At first I thought, well, the manual only has 22 steps so how hard can it be.
As it turned out... pretty hard. It took me 5 hours to build this car.
I started by working on the electronics.
First, the receiver, I changed the plugs to JST-ZH 1.5 for channel 1 and 2.
Sadly there's no room for channel 3.
Then for the ESC I cut and soldered bullet connectors to the wires so I can easily change the motor later.
And finally I made a battery adapter from standard JST-XH 2.5 to JST-XH 2.0.
To get the correct polarity you have to point the plugs at the same direction with the notch pointing upward like this.
The manual is not printed and included in the box.
You'll have to follow the link from QR code on the box and to me that's very good thing because this saves a fair bit of weight in the shipping.
I'll also have the link for the manual in the description below.
Honestly the manual is good but not the best.
While the building instruction is clear and extremely well written, it should have said what part comes from which bag
to save some time from rummaging around to find the right part.
I mean the bags are all labeled already, just add some tags to the manual shouldn't be that hard.
Apart from the recommended tools in the manual, you also need hand drill to clean up the holes,
some more sand papers to better clean off excess plastic.
Also you should have a calliper to measure the screw size and linkages.
The included Allen key for 1.3mm hex included is almost useless;
the one I got is bent out of shape and unusable.
I ended up using the cheap tools I got for fixing computer instead.
You have to be careful while building it especially at the steering slider.
You have to clean the excess plastic off otherwise it will not work.
But don't sand it down too much or make the bottom of the slider round because it will make the steering sloppy.
There are a lot of excess plastic in other places as well. So be sure that the suspension works smoothly too.
The diff also has a lot of excess plastic in the gears.
But if you're not interested in a working differential and want to use a lock diff, just leave it and you'll save a bit of time here.
The thing that makes this car tricky to build is the tiny, tiny shims for suspension adjustment.
I understand it has to use shims because of the scale but man, this is very small and very tricky.
When inserting the pins, use some solid tool to push it in.
Don't use your finger otherwise you'll end up stabbing yourself like I did.
Side body mounts also need trimming to put Mini-Z body on.
I found this out later after I put the top plate on already.
So if you want to use Mini-Z body, check if there's excess plastic on these pieces before putting them on the chassis.
Make sure everything lines up properly before tighten it down.
It might need some sanding because these plastic parts are not that well made.
Some of them even don't line up properly with the holes on carbon fibre plate.
One last thing, plastic wheel nuts are really bad.
Don't use them; just get the M2 lock nuts from ebay or something.
I suggest the nuts with flange. They are cheap and secure the wheels very well.
Apart from these, everything was straight forward.
Just follow the instruction and if you don't have specific setup in mind you should follow the stock setup provided in the manual.
That's what I did and my car turned out great.
I don't have the exact grease number for shocks so I used the Kyosho gear diff. grease that I have and applied the nearest recommended numbers.
The motor I use is a budget one, the Surpass Hobby 1410 6000KV.
Transmitter and receiver are also bargain basement with Radiolink RC3S.
The wheels that I use are between 0 to 1.5mm offset depending on the tyres and surface.
The battery is GiantPower 2S LiPo 300 mAh.
And finally the body is Nissan Skyline R33 GTR.
To be honest it wasn't the most pleasant build I've ever had.
I even stab myself several times but in the end it's worth the pain.
Be patience; take your time to build it and you'll have a great car.
After finish building it you should check if the slider hits steering knuckle when turning.
If so you'll have to file the end of the slider off.
If you use low offset front wheel, with the stock setup in full lock the wheel might hit the shock absorber and lock up causing the car to spin.
So you have to make sure the wheel never turn that far by setting EPA on the transmitter and lowering the gyro gain.
If you feel that it's hard to control, try widening the front track.
Also try adjusting the gyro gain until you are comfortable driving it. 50% or at the middle is a good place to start.
Now let's see how it drifts!
It drifts like everything I've ever dreamt off.
This is my first RWD drift car so I was expecting it to be like what people say on the Internet and forums
like if you are coming from CS, unlearn what you have learned.
But with this car I just have to be a bit more delicate with the steering and throttle then everything is fine.
I can tell you with confidence that it is such a wonderful feeling to drift a RWD.
The way it slides is different than CS car that makes it so satisfying to drive, so elegant and a sight to behold.
This ESC is also very good. It delivers power very consistently and has smooth linear throttle throughout the range.
I don't have a programming card for this yet but I don't think I'll need it because default setup already feels good.
The voltage cut off is around 6V and it doesn't stop the car dead.
But it'll slow the car down noticeably in to what you can say a limb home mode so you don't have to go in to the track to retrieve it.
On to the good the bad and final verdict.
I'll tell you the bad things first to get them out of my chest.
Some plastic parts are not well made.
They don't fit together properly and won't line up with the holes on chassis plate.
Not only that but one of my ball stud hasn't got screw thread.
Luckily I have 4mm ball studs that I bought by mistake long time ago so I was saved.
You might not be so lucky.
These are not what I expect from a car that cost 199 USD.
But honestly, the car is so good to drive and it has plenty of adjustability and parts support with more upgrades to come.
And all of this out weight the faults.
So I highly recommend it if you want a pocket-size RWD drift car.
One thing though, you need plenty of tools and a lot of patience to build it.
Well, that makes it two things then.
I'll have another set of videos from when I build this car minus the bits that I was looking for parts.
If you are interested in seeing how exactly this car is built you can check them out.
And that's it for this video.
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Thanks for watching. And see you again next time.
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