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welcome to Raj Creations
in this video i am going to show you the drafting and stitching of kurti
that I have made in my earlier video of embroidery part
in this video I am showing you stitching
from here onwards I am marking here downwards 7 inches
this is armhole area here measuring the chest width
whatever is your width, divide it by 4
and add 1.5 to 2 inches as a seam or losing allowance
here I am drawing a line this is the back part of my kurti
in my previous video of embroidery i have shown the marking of front neckline
take half from armhole area and draw a curve
here I am taking 15" as a waist marking from top
taking 9" as a width
these lines are for stitch marking while cutting I will add some loosing to them
here onwards
I am taking 21" for a hip measurement
this length depends upon your height here taking the width of 12 inches
now joining these 3 points make a curve shape like this
and from this point we will extend till the bottom whatever is the length of your kurti
here I am taking 3" as a neck width
and depth will be of 1"
as per design
now make a curve like this
here taking approx 1/2 inch of shoulder drop
this was the back part cutting, now for sleeves from the top mark 3"
take a half inch and draw a shape for sleeves like this,
the width of this fabric is 9"
and depth is 6"
9" folded
and from here downwards mark the width of sleeves
this is the marking or drafting of sleeves
now for the front neck we have to place the tassel dori like this
and a cloth strip this will be used as a placket
and on paper I am showing you how we have to stitch this
actually this is a cloth piece but for showing you
I am using this paper
we have to stitch this and turn and again stitch this to make the neckline,
this way we have to
we have to place a piece of fabric like this it has to
we have to make stitch line on three side and then we will make neckline on it
as you can see i have cut the back part of kurti
now place this on the top of the front side and mark all around
so that we will cut it
here i am marking neckline actual depth is of 3 inches
but just as a guideline
you can mark both pieces together but I have to do embroidery on front part
I had detatched it earlier hence why we have
mark like this
now we cut on these marked lines
after cutting this will look like this
we have give depth in front arm in bodice and in the sleeves as well
this is back part here I have placed a dori
add attached this fabric and stitched the neck shape and both shoulders
after cutting , give small notches and then we will turn this
the back neck part is ready
now for the front neckline we have to use this placket in the center of yellow stitches
and then we will place this piece of fabric and dori underneath this
in the same manner we have to stitch now give the notches
all around, now here starts the difficult part of this neckline
as I have shown you on paper
now very carefully we have to cut this part
so that the front flap is made
and the placket comes out
very slowly and carefully we have to cut this
just for showing you I am holding this on hands
but you have to do this on flat surface
let see how it comes
now here we will give angel slit in V form, one here and one on the other side
in a V shape so that it turns out easily( without crossing the stitch line)
now turning this, It comes out neat and embroidery isn't damaged
this way the neckline with placket is ready
we have to iron it properly before proceeding
I am just showing you how it will look
and one this part here we have to attach hooks and eyes
now starting the shoulder filling part
we have to stitch both shoulders
we have to stitch both shoulders leaving the flap and be sure to insert the dori inside the bodice
after joining shoulders marking fitting for just to be sure
for safer side, though we have already measure and taken margin
but again marking it
I always complete fitting part of bodice and then add sleeves
for me it is easy if it doesn't suits you
you can attach sleeves
earlier and then
do the final fitting and I like method very easy for me
after marking these lines I will make a stitch line over it
now showing you how to attach sleeves for this I have made a draft
I hope you will find this helpful
I have made a sleeve and stitched it like this
and turning it towards right side
as you can see bodice of kurti is on back side, we will insert sleeve inside this
and by matching the back cutting of sleeve with back armhole
we will measure all around, if there is any discrepancy we will settle it
and after measuring it properly we have to attach the sleeve,
the benefit of doing this is that
doing this method is that if we have to make alterations in sleeve or in bodice we can make them seperate
now finishing up part , I am showing you I have attached the bottom part of placket with hand hem
and the piece of fabric used for neck designing with hand hem so that while washing and ironing
it will set properly
and it also gives the volume to the bodice
now our designer kurti is almost ready on the side slits
and the bottom part
we have to fold it twice and make this stitch line
this is how after finishing it looks, i hope you will find this tuturial helpful
thanks for watching my video , Thank you
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