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hi I'm Cressel Anderson this is Makercise. in this episode I'll be casting
aluminum and bronze parts for the shaper yoke
one of the things I'm trying is--for the sprue and feeder sections--I've
hot-wired out little grooves or little channels in them so that way when I cap
them off glue them together the metal kind of has a place to go as well as a
more clear vent out I'm going to try to put a vent on the other side and arrange
these things so that the byproducts from vaporizing this polystyrene hopefully
make it up and out and make a little better casting to machine I'm going to
put a cup kind of angled this way I've got a vent going this way and should
have a little spot for a poor cup
in preparation to move I packed my tire that I was using for the vibration table
in the storage and so I kind of had to improvise with a spare wheel and my hand
truck it worked okay
this is how the casting turned out I love lost foam! it's great. I mean
look at the dimensional tolerances on these parts they seem very faithful to
what I originally assembled here prior to applying the plaster of Paris it does
a great job keeping sand inclusions the top runner I think was sized about
appropriately as well as the vent being placed well I don't see any kind of gas
inclusions or other debris in the actual parts that looks real good I also like
using the wax as a coating take a look at this picture this is from the engine
of my car I replace this water pump just before I went on my road trip to
Oklahoma and you can see the same kind of details in the engine block casting
as you can in this lost foam that I'm doing so I think it's ok to have that
texture but it is cool to know that the wax application over the top is a really
good way to kind of modify that surface finish you probably even sand it down
the only drawback is the plaster doesn't seem to adhere particularly well
initially over the wax you can tell this one was done without the wax coating and
this one had the wax coating so you've not got any of this expanded polystyrene
texture on the one that I coated with wax anyway let's get these cut up and
start making some shaper parts
it's fortunate that I have two holes here it's hitting on the back on the hub
portion of the faceplate so I need to move the screws a little bit to the
outside hole here so that I can get the faceplate clamps close enough together I
flip the part end for end and then I used these two squares I pretty much
stuck them back up in there on the faceplate so that way I could get the
machined flat side on the other end of this block parallel to the faceplate so
that should make these two ends parallel I'm facing off all the sides of these
blocks that I cast for use in the yoke of the shaper crank mechanism this will
be the part that goes in the center of the column and oscillates back and
forward based on the rotation of the bull wheel what's this part around this
will be the first one that I have completed all four phases are all six
phases this is my last one
a little carried away on the one dimension there so it's about 15 thou over
that direction and about 20 under in that direction I really need a graduated
disc for the lead screw I'm gonna get that a little closer ah there we go it's
only about 10 thou off from square on this end. 1" diameter so I need a
3.14" dial. I think this is a 3/8 16 rod.
I already faced off this end and now I'm gonna face off this in to make the
overall length as called for in the plan so this is the last one that I have to
machine and then I'm gonna start boring holes I think I'll do them all on the
lathe because it's what the book suggests
I'm advancing the lead screw 10 thousandths between each of these cuts this is about
six inches of stick out from kind of where the setscrew is on the face plate
so no I'm I'm happy that it's not giving me more problems than that these are the
support bosses for the little hinge rod that goes across at the bottom of the
column this will be the slide block that goes up and down and causes the the yoke
to oscillate back and forward driving the ram this will be the block up at the
top I've machined these two to the dimensions they need to be prior to
boring them both these will have holes with bearings installed in them as well
as the top the top I still have to thin up just a little bit once that's done
I'll mount these parts in the faceplate clamp and I will bore them using the
lathe and probably probably have to bore them out so that they'll accept these
bushings I don't currently have a bushing that is wide enough for this
part so I think I'm probably going to have to turn that I do have some raw
bronze stock so I'll probably use that I might end up having to take a little bit
off of my clamps it's a little too far down in there I could make taller
parallels but I think it will probably be faster and it'll give me you know to
kind of clean up the tops of these clamps a little bit so I'll probably
just go all the way down to the line even if I get into the angle iron clamps
there
you definitely tell that I'm getting into these clamps now you can even kind
of hear the difference in the sound that it makes so that's the clamp second
clamp
and call this good enough I mean this this works this holds parts but when you
clamp stuff at the end these bolts tend to kind of squeeze the base together and
lift it off and then it's not completely parallel and coupled with the fact that
these screws are so far out on the face plate the inside corners of these angle
iron clamps comes out just a little bit and and I'm not so sure about my
parallels there they may be off too so anyway this is this is a nice square
piece of stock that's pretty much the dimensions called for in the book so I'm
gonna proceed with it even though it's not it doesn't have exactly parallel
sides the yoke will pivot around this 12 millimeter rod held between the two
bosses very well aligned does it
well that is apparently not a very good way to get those holes centered up in a
previous video you saw me alloy up the C932 bronze. Today I am going to be
melting that down and pouring a cylinder that I can then machine a little bit
more readily than this ingot and I will be making bearings for the shaper yoke
I think this is what happens when you leave your foundry out and they get to
rained on probably all that ceramic fiber has some moisture in it I've tried
to let it dry out but I guess it's gonna dry out pretty quick at this point
that's what we ended up with this will become the bearing for the lower caste
Singh this will become the bearing for the upper casting and this will become
the bearing for the slide bloc and then I have a nice one-inch diameter piece of
bronze that I might end up machining as a lathe bearing I try to keep the
turnings from the bronze so that way I can remelt them and have more bronze for
bearings in the future I don't really have a tool that seems to be
particularly well-suited towards getting up in here I've not got much of a part
sticking out from this set of clamps on the faceplate but I used a that parting
tool that I ground a while back and just kind of using that side corner of it to
try to clean up this bearing that's not any good
I broke off my cutoff tool so I switched over I do have a left-hand turning tool
but I don't know it's it's really not set up for this kind of a cut but seems
to be doing okay so that's what I'm running with
it's gonna be the slide block bearing so I think this bit is pretty big I'm not
exactly sure what I think will happen I think it may spin in the Morse taper
socket bingo that's exactly what happened I was able to drill up to 12
millimeters. I just had to go in smaller increments. I went 6mm, 8, 10, 11,
12 and so this shoulder bolt is a number 12. this is for the crank pin it's
just a little tight so I think I'll have to get out the boring bar and open up
this just a hair I think the old boring bar did the trick
that's a pretty good fit I'll make a mandrel and then turn down the outside
of this face off the other end I've turned down this shaft to where it's
pretty well about a thousandth under 12 millimeters these bushings as well as
the ones that I cast are 12 millimeters so we'll see how well
pretty good fit now I can superglue these bushings on to this Arbor and turn
them down leave a little bit sticking over at the end so that way I can face
it off
I took the shims out from under the front of the tool and it makes the rake
angle a little more shallow and it seems to cut much better you can still really
tell the flex in the carriage I think the majority of it is coming from the
interface between the cross slide and the compound base this is really putting
art and on this lay thing it's hot to let it cool down
not to mention the fact that the heat has caused the superglue to let loose
and this bearing as written back down the harbor oh that's hot I faced off the
end and now I'm going to give it a little chamfer there was some pitting in
my castings but I think he'll do all right this is the bearing that will go
in the slide block and for turning that bearing I just used an aluminum Arbor to
turn it however for the case of the upper end casting bearing which is I
think the book calls for a quarter inch by like three eighths inch bearing I
couldn't even find one of those in stock for such a small diameter Arbor I went
ahead and made it out of steel so I've gotten a little braver on how much to
take off I do a full 25 thou cut on this trying to trying to reduce the diameter
of this rough casting down to what I need
and that gets pretty hot
I got that whole little bit bigger than I wanted but this I can tell pretty
close
I used my calipers to mark a centerline along this top casting and then I marked
up the required distance along the side and then I used just a small hammer to
kind of tap this thing around while the bolts were a little bit tight until I
got the center of those two marks pretty well aligned with this center drill held
in the tailstock Chuck this is the way that the book
recommends it because the book was written under the presumption that the
reader doesn't already have a drill press drill presses are so cheap
nowadays that you know a little drill press like the one I use all the time
just doesn't make sense not to have one I'm just showing this technique to give
you an idea of how it would be done based on the books recommendations
this bushing had a little bit of untied enos around the inside of it and when I
pressed it in with the vise buggered up this in so I'm going to get rid of that
using a countersink bit held in the brace
if you enjoyed this project give me a big favor and go ahead and click that
like button in the next project video I'll be assembling the yoke and
connecting it to the ram I hope this project builds your confidence
to exercise your inner maker thanks for watching
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