well guys it is finally time to bolt up
the cr250 cylinder on to the bottom end
now I've been waiting forever to do this
so let's jump right into it but let me
say you're gonna want to stick around
for the entire video because at the end
I've got a great opportunity for you
guys alright let's get started so the
cylinder is all ready to go got the
exhaust valve all assembled and this was
a cylinder that was repaired by power
steel there's a big gouge in earlier so
I had to fix that replayed it and weld
the exhaust bridge as well so bores
looking great
and this thing is ready to be bolted
onto the bottom end and the piston I'll
be using for this build is a stock size
vertex take a look at what we got here
inside the box I've got the Rings this
is a dual ring piston about the circlips
as well now the needle bearing a piston
pender right here so piston looks great
I'm gonna get it ready to slide on the
rod by installing the piston rings and
one of the piston pins or clips as you
can see this is a dual ring piston so
I'll be installing the bottom ring first
followed with the top and the Rings look
like they're identical from top to
bottom and they're marked right here
with a tee so any markings should be
facing up and on 2-stroke pistons they
make it pretty simple there's a pin
where the ring and gap lines up actually
before I slide the rings onto the piston
I'm gonna set the ring end gap here with
the cylinder so how this works is I'm
gonna slide the Rings into the bore and
measure the end gap here on the ring so
according to the vertex instructions on
a two-stroke engines there should be a
minimum ring end gap of six to nine
thousandths per inch of bore so the bore
on this cylinder is C two point six
inches so I'm gonna gonna go to point
six times the spec right here and after
a little bit of math the minimum ring
end gap should be sixteen to twenty
three thousand seven inch so now I'm
just gonna compress the ring with my
finger
and slide it into the bore here
I'm just gonna work it down inside the
cylinder a little bit about half an inch
down it's gonna make sure it's even all
the way around that way I'm getting an
accurate measurement looks pretty good
so now I'm going to measure this little
gap here at the end of the Rings with a
set of feeler gauges and once again our
spec was from 16 to 23 thousandths so
I'm gonna find a sixteenth out here
right there and see if that fits into
the gap yep so that fits in there pretty
good but there's still a little bit of
movement so I'm gonna bump up on the
feeler gauge size and find out what the
actual measurement there is let's go
ahead and try 20,000 there there's a
little bit of drag or it's catching on
the ring so that is the gap right there
so that definitely falls within the
sixteen to twenty three thousand two
that we had earlier and just to be a
hundred percent sure I'm gonna go ahead
and measure the other piston ring as
well
so this ring has the same exact
measurement so we're good to go
next up is gonna be putting the rings on
to the piston all right let's actually
start assembling stuff except it's just
talking about it so I'm gonna lube up
the piston here with some maxima
assembly lube this is just gonna help
slide the Rings into place just a light
coat here
on the top of the piston will do so like
I said earlier these two rings are
identical and there's a t mark on the
top of them so that T should be facing
up so I'm just gonna locate the ring end
gap pin here on the bottom groove it's
right there so I'm going to line up the
end gap with the ring expand it and
slide it over the piston
and then for the top ring it's gonna do
the same thing line up the end gap with
a pin spam the ring over the piston
so right now it looks like the rings are
super loose on the piston like they're
almost too big or something but once I
compress them and slide them into the
cylinder they'll be fine
and then the last thing to do here is to
install one of the piston pincer clips
so what I like to do is there's a little
cutout here in the piston so I'm gonna
line one end of circlip up with that
cutout should be able to push that
circlip right down inside the piston and
sometimes it helps to have a little flat
blade screwdriver to push that circlip
down into the piston so the circlip went
a little bit deep inside the piston just
gonna push it through into the groove
from the other side there we go it's in
there and looking good and sometimes
when you're installing the circlips the
end of a circle it can scratch up the
piston here just like a light little
little burr there so what I'm gonna do
is take a file and lightly just smooth
that out nothing major but definitely
want to make sure there's no burrs
coming off of that so that feels pretty
good right there and of course you want
to make sure there's no filings left
over here so the piston is all ready to
go but one thing I forgot about are the
cylinder studs so I'm gonna thread these
things in right now and so since these
studs are prone to seizing over time I'm
gonna put some anti-seize here on the
threads and by the way there are two
sides of these studs there's a rounded
face and a flat base so the rounded side
faces up
so how I'm going to tighten down these
studs is by using two nuts and locking
them against each other it's gonna
thread the first nut on upside-down like
that leaving a good chunk of the threads
exposed for the top nut and now I'm just
gonna tighten these two nuts against
each other and that will allow me to
thread the stud into the case and these
studs only need to be torqued to 12 foot
pounds whenever you're working on the
bottom end that's assembled like this
one you want to have a rag covering up
the crankshaft area here definitely
don't want to be dropping a nut or like
when we're putting the piston pincer
clips in definitely don't want to drop
something down there like that
all right let's get this piston
installed finally
so most Pistons are gonna have an arrow
like this one right here on the dome and
that should always be facing towards the
exhaust port or exhaust side of the
engine so this piston will be installed
just like that
so when looking at the exhaust side of
the piston here you'll notice that there
aren't any lubrication or cooling holes
drilled and so this vertex piston is a
cast piston and those holes are not
necessary on a cast piston however
pistons like a forged Weiss Co will need
those holes drilled and the reason for
drilling holes on a forged piston and
not a cast one is because cast pistons
and forged pistons expand at different
rates so the first step in installing
the piston is to install the needle
bearing for the piston pin so I'm just
lube it up the inside of the rod here
and then I'm gonna slide through the
wrist pin bearing you definitely want
this bearing lubed up pretty well just
want to give everything a nice coat of
lubricant before it goes together and
like I mentioned earlier this arrow
right here needs the point towards the
exhaust side of the engine just slide on
the piston just like so and since I have
the circlip installed on this side of
the piston the wrist pin will need to go
through the other side just gotta wiggle
the piston around a little bit and the
pin should slide through there we go and
so the last thing to do here is to
install the other circlip
here into the piston so once again I'm
gonna put one end into a cutout here on
the piston and try to work the circlip
in without scratching the piston there
we go popped right into the groove and
this is more personal preference
anything but I like to have the ends of
the circlip lined up with a cutout here
on the piston that way there's no
possible way that circlip can come out
so before I slide on the cylinder got
the gasket to install and the two dowel
pins so I believe the dowel pins go see
you look at the bottom the cylinder here
they go on the left side so on these two
studs here
and not a bad idea to put some
anti-seize on the dowel pins either and
like always I like to put a thin layer
of grease on the gasket surface this
just keeps the gasket into place and
then if I have to pull the cylinder off
or any any reason down the road the
gasket will stay in one piece and it
won't tear so you can see that grease
holds the gasket into place pretty good
and prevents it from shifting around
before I get that cylinder on so at this
point it is time to finally slide the
cylinder on I am super excited and of
course before I slide this piston into
the cylinder doesn't want to have a nice
coat of lube here on the skirts and
inside the cylinder board as well and so
how this is gonna work is I'm gonna line
up the Rings with the pins as best I can
try to get them centered here on the
locating pin and obviously the first
string is going to go into the cylinder
first so I'm going to compress that just
with my hands here my fingers I'm gonna
try to get the cylinder square on the
cases here do my best to compress that
ring and if you have an extra set of
hands here if you have a buddy to help
you out that helps out with quite a bit
trying to get these rings into the
cylinder so ring number one is in and
now ring number two gonna do my best
don't line this one up with a pin as
well looks pretty good slide down the
cylinder a little bit more see if I can
get that second ring started inside the
bore just a light little wiggle get that
thing started and now at this point got
the ring started inside the cylinder
just gonna do my best to keep the
cylinder square with the cases and just
squeeze that piston down inside of there
just slow and steady gonna get it lined
up with the studs here and once I'm on
the studs it should have no problem with
lining anything got it'll to slip right
down just like that
man that is looking fresh I love how the
cylinder looks at the cases super happy
with how that turned out so you guys saw
how easy it was to slide the cylinder
onto the studs here so having new dowel
pins here inside these studs helps out
so much and then having anti-seize or
grease on them - that just makes
everything slide together so much easier
and then down the road so they have to
pull this top end off to rebuild it the
cylinder is just gonna slide right off
without any issue like I won't have any
problems with those dowel pins corroding
or rusting now we just got to locate my
nuts for the cylinder that is and I
should have this thing all torque down
now the cellar-door nuts call 429
foot-pounds so once I torque those in a
crisscross pattern I've got a little
surprise for you guys so hang tight
so of course next up is gonna be the
cylinder head and let me show you guys
what I'm working with here this thing is
so trick it is made by Fathead racing I
cannot wait to put it on alright so
here's the deal with these heads the
biggest benefit is that they have
interchangeable domes
which allow you to change the
compression ratio of the bike which will
obviously change the power so I've got
two different domes here this one is
pretty close to stock compression ratio
and then this one bumps up the ratio a
little bit so once I have this bike
running I'm gonna test out these
different domes and see which one I like
and then also what's cool about these
heads is they improve cooling so check
out all these ports here keep your bike
cool and on top of all that these things
just looked Rick can't wait to mount it
up so like I mentioned earlier these
heads are made by Fathead racing and
what was really cool them to do is they
donated one of these heads to me to
raffle off for my cancer recovery fund
so how this is gonna work
is they've got a variety of heads over
there on the website from different bike
sizes different manufacturers and so
when you enter the running for the head
or for the raffle you're gonna be able
to choose which head you want so you can
enter or you can buy it as many raffle
tickets as you want each one is one
dollar and this raffle is going to end
this Saturday September 15th at midnight
so get your ticket spot before then and
as soon as this video ends what I want
you guys to do is head over to that head
racing comm ph8 e ray Singh Kham and
check out what they've got and so while
we're on the subject of cancer treatment
and cancer recovery I figured I'd give
you guys a little update so I've been
through two chemotherapy treatments so
far and they say I've got like four to
six more so that's like six more months
of chemotherapy and just to give you
guys a little idea of how much that
costs it's like ten grand a month
for treatment pretty crazy so of course
I'm trying alternative treatments doing
whatever I can on my own to get better
you know kick cancers ass and get
through this but it's like a constant
roller coaster every time I go in for
treatment they knock me back down to
ground zero to build myself back up to
like where I'm at right now you know I
have decent energy I'm able to work on
the t-50 a little bit and then when I go
back in for treatment like on this
Monday they're going to just knock me
completely out again and so it's pretty
tough to go through but overall it's
going pretty good so I appreciate your
guys's support I wouldn't be able to get
through this without you
and let's just keep on truckin let's
kick cancers ass all right enough BS
let's get this head mounted up on the
engine so fat head supplied some
earrings for the dome in the head so
when we get these into place and mount
up ahead so this style of head uses
odin's instead of the traditional style
metal gasket and so I'll be going with
the stock compression ratio dome just to
limit any issues from the get-go and
then it looks like Fathead supplied new
nuts and washers for the head as well
and then for the cylinder just gonna
wipe this down with acetone make sure
there's no oil or assembly left over
this is one gasket surface you don't
want to have any grease or oil on that's
for sure
oh and one more thing before I put the
head on I'm gonna make sure the engine
turns over without any issues just
seeing if that piston goes up and down
in the bore without catching on anything
Oh looks good so we're ready to go and
on goes the head finally sweet that
looks good now it's very important that
the head nuts get torqued in an even
pattern and the torque spec for this
head is 20 foot-pounds so at first I'm
going to tighten all these the 10 foot
pounds and I'm just gonna go in a
crisscross pattern here so much like
tightening a wheel on a car now I'm
going to bump it up to 15 foot-pounds
and follow the same pattern and then up
to 20
and boom just like that the motor is now
finished up such a good feeling always a
good idea to pop in the spark plug just
trying to keep anything from entering
the engine
alright guys that is gonna wrap up the
cr250 engine bill so as you can imagine
the upcoming videos are gonna be of
assembling the bike and you definitely
do not want to miss out on that so if
you're not already subscribed go down
below right now and hit that subscribe
button I just want to give a big thank
you to the companies I've been helping
out Flathead racing provided the head
power steel USA did the cylinder repair
and then vertex racing provided the
piston so huge shout out to those
companies and a big thank you to you
guys for following along with this
project
and giving me all the motivation in the
world to finish this bike oh and for
those of you asking about the camp
strong hats they are now available over
on primum XCOM with that being said keep
it prime guys
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