Hey guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com.
Today, we're taking a look at and installing the SR performance linear lowering springs
fitting all 79 to 04 Mustang Coupes, excluding 99 to 04 Cobra models.
Now, if you are the owner of that fox body SN95 or New Edge Mustang Coupe, you might
be in the market for a set of lowering springs.
Now, if you're looking for lowering springs, you already know that they'll give you that
aggressive stance for your Mustang.
Appearance is definitely a big factor when picking out a set of springs.
Now, I'll break down more in detail what linear versus progressive means when we take a look
at this one compared to our progressive stock spring.
Now, if you're looking to get this linear spring for yourself, you can do so for just
about 130 bucks on the site here.
And again, there's a ton of different options so you wanna make sure if you're in one that
fits your preference.
If you like the look of the one-and-a-half-inch drop these SR springs half your Mustang, I'm
gonna show you how to install it.
So, for the installation, it's gonna get two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter.
It is a little bit more difficult than a direct bolt on here although it does not require
any cutting and drilling.
You're gonna wanna have the whole toolbox on deck, a variety of extensions, sockets,
power drill, ratchets, wrenches, ratcheting wrenches, gloves, of course, eye protection,
I'd say a pry bar, and definitely a mallet or hammer to get the job done.
One of your best friends going through into this install is going to be PB Blaster or
WD-40 because this thing is a rust bucket, 20 to 23 years old and even more for the fox
body owners out there.
There's a lot of rust under here which you can see in our frame, so our bolts are definitely
going to be pretty bad.
So I'm gonna show you and walk through all the steps I took to fix all that stuff.
And of course, using a pry bar to pop in and out of our springs will definitely help.
Some of these things actually broke off into our A-arms, you'll see me tackle that as well.
Now, without further ado, I wanna show you guys how this got installed so expect about
three, maybe four hours, if you're working on the floor.
It's definitely gonna take some time here, maybe a little bit more for you guys who might
not have as much experience.
Without further ado, let's see how this gets done.
Tools needed for this install are power tool, ratchet, PB Blaster or WD-40, extension, 10
millimeter ratcheting wrench, 10 millimeter wrench, 14 millimeter wrench, 15 to 17 millimeter
ratcheting swivel wrench, 15 millimeter wrench, 18 millimeter wrench, 15/16ths wrench, flathead
screwdriver, hammer, mallet, breaker bar, pry bar, blade, swivel joint socket, 10 millimeter
short socket, 15 millimeter deep socket, 13 millimeter deep socket, 15 millimeter short
socket, 18 millimeter socket, 21 millimeter socket, and 22 millimeter socket, impact gun.
All right guys, to kick off the uninstall the first thing, of course, we need to do
is pop all four wheels off in all four corners.
I already broke the lug nuts loose.
Make sure you have that key on deck if you have the keyed lug nuts.
I already have that attached here so I'm gonna grab my 22-millimeter socket, pull the rest
of the nuts off, grab our wheels out of the way, and we'll get to work.
All right, guys, once you get your wheels off, the first thing you wanna do is to make
sure you get your car in the air.
If you're working on the ground, it can be a little bit easier to remove the top nut
holding the shocks in from in the trunk liner.
Now, if you are gonna go that route, you wanna make sure you're supporting the rear axle
with jack stands on both sides.
Support the weight because once you remove the top nut, the whole suspension is gonna
drop down and decompress the spring which can be a little bit dangerous.
Make sure you're supporting the rear axle before you do anything.
We're working on a lifter today so we got it up in the air, so our next step is to support
it with pole jacks.
If you're working on the floor with just a hydraulic jack, you wanna have jack stands
under both sides of the rear axle.
You wanna make sure you're putting pressure on it so that once you relieve the pressure
off of your shocks, the rear axle doesn't drop down decompressing your spring.
That can be very, very dangerous.
This is a very important step.
So make sure you're using your pole jack or jack stands underneath the rear axle and putting
pressure on it.
All right, so before we remove any bolts, the first thing I wanna use is our PB Blaster,
WD-40 obviously works very well, as well.
So, the first thing I'm gonna do is lube up the bolt here on our brake line bracket.
Now, I wanna remove this just because once I do start lowering down the rear axle, I
don't want pressure to be put on the brake lines, that can also be pretty dangerous.
I'm gonna lube up that bolt there, then I'm gonna put PB Blaster on the bolt and nut here
on the bottom of our shock.
Grab your 10-millimeter socket and extension, and remove the bolt here holding on the bracket
for your brake line.
Remove that clip there to get it out of place so it doesn't put pressure on it.
All right, so I got my 15-millimeter wrench here on the backside of the bolt, 18-millimeter
socket on the nut on the front.
So this is the bottom of our shock here.
This is exactly why you wanna have the pole jack underneath the rear axle here.
Once this is removed, all the pressure is going to drop down off of the spring and the
rear axle, so this will come down.
That's why you want to support that with your jack.
Just grab our mallet and knock this through.
All right, since this is the solid rear axle, we're gonna do both sides simultaneously.
So, we have our bolt out of our shock on the driver side, we're gonna do the same thing
for the passenger.
All right, so it's about that time, all we have to do now is lower down our pole jacks
or if you're using jack stands, you can do it that way, or a hydraulic jack, if that's
the route you're taking.
So we're gonna lower down our pole jacks one at a time.
Now, this is very crucial to do it very cautiously.
Gonna make sure you're going very slow because it's going to start to decompress that spring.
The spring is under a tremendous amount of load and pressure.
So if you do it too quick it can decompress and even shoot out and be very, very dangerous
and cause injury.
So we're gonna do one at a time, lowering it very slowly, decompress that spring until
it's fully decompressed.
And we're gonna do it to the opposite side here and we'll be able to remove both springs
simultaneously.
We got all the tension off of our rear springs here, you'll be able to tell because your
jack only lowers so much and the rear axle only go down so far.
You'll be able to see...you can start to twist and turn, it's got a little bit of flex to
the springs here.
All I'm gonna do is hit it with some PB Blaster on the bottom and the top where the isolators
meet.
And simply because it is a 21-year-old car, it is a 97 Mustang, so these are factory parts.
So it is pretty old, they've never been taken off before, so everything's a little rusty.
I do expect maybe some of the springs to even break, isolators are gonna be cracking and
rusted, falling apart.
So hit a little PB Blaster in there.
Then I'm gonna grab a pry bar and start to pop them out of their sockets.
You're starting to have a little trouble getting your springs out, you can always raise the
opposite end up a little more on the rear axle just to drop the one that you're working
on a little bit lower.
So that's what we're gonna do here and grab our pry bar again and try to get that spring
out.
We've got our driver side spring out in the rear, now we have to work on our passenger
side.
So we're gonna raise up the driver side axle, lower down our passenger side one to get that
a little bit lower, decompress it some more and pop it out.
All right, guys, so we finally got our factory spring off of the car and on the ground here
sitting next to our SR performance linear lowering spring.
Now, there are two big points I wanna point out here, the progressive versus linear and
the ride height difference.
So first off, ride height is something a little more obvious, right, you can take a look at
these two springs and notice the difference in height.
Now it does look like more than an inch and a half on the ground here, but you wanna keep
in mind once it's under load here, you're looking at about an inch and a half drop in
all four corners.
There are other aftermarket springs out there that give you a staggered look, maybe two-inch
drop in the rear, and an inch and a half in the front, or whatever the differences may
be.
So if you're looking for a consistent all four corner equal drop, the SR performance
here gives you that inch and a half drop, which I think looks pretty good on the SN95
Mustangs.
Now, the second thing here I wanna point out again is progressive versus linear spring
rates, which we have the difference here.
Now the SR performance linear spring is to my left, and our stock spring here is a good
example of a progressive spring rate.
So I do wanna just point out here that progressive springs are really gonna give you the best
of both worlds.
You get that comfortable ride height under normal driving conditions, great for daily
drivers, people, just weekend warrior cars, going to car shows, and just cruising around
town.
But for guys who want that drop in ride height and still want that sporty feel under hard
loads, whether it be tight corners, you're doing a lot of cornering there, you're doing
some of the back roads, or if you're doing a lot of burnouts and drag launches and you
just want that best of both worlds feel, progressive is gonna be the way to go.
There's a ton of options out there in the aftermarket world.
Now, if you're looking for something a lot more consistent, that has that sporty feel
all the time, lets you know exactly how it's going to perform under every single driving
condition, no matter what you're doing, whether it be the racetrack, the autocross course,
or just you know driving to work, the linear spring is gonna be what you're looking for.
This is typically race ready, great for guys out there who want to know exactly how it's
gonna perform every time with one defined spring rate.
That's the linear spring, and that's what we're working on today.
So without further ado, I wanna get our one and a half inch drop linear springs installed
on our Mustang.
So let's get to it.
So we're pulling out or factory isolators here.
And as you can see they are a little beat up, the top ones a little mutilated, this
bottom one is just completely ripped apart.
What we're gonna do is actually completely replace this.
Now, they don't include these in the kit for the SR performance linear lowering springs,
you're gonna have to pick these up separately but they're pretty inexpensive on the site.
It's a really good idea if you're working on a car that's upwards of 20, 21, 22 years
old like our SN95 here.
So we're gonna replace these isolators, put them on our springs and throw it up in the
vehicle.
Put our new isolators on top and bottom of our spring, the smaller pigtail side of our
spring is actually going to be on the bottom.
So we're gonna go ahead and seat that into place.
All right, so might be a little easier for you guys to seat the isolator in place first,
otherwise, you can feed it over just like this.
Make sure you're seating that isolator into the factory position here, snap it into place.
Get the spring to seat properly there.
Once you put a load on it, it'll start to seat a little more evenly on the bottom seat.
Now, we can pop off the opposite sides old factory isolators, pop our new isolators into
place, put our spring in.
With our new SR performance lowering spring in place, what we need to do now is start
to raise up our rear axle on both sides to get it to compress a little more, and we'll
start to feed in the bottom of our rear shock into its place and bolt it down.
Once we have it compressed a little bit more, everything will start to line up and we'll
be good to move on to the front.
Now, we have the bottom of our shock lined up with the factory mounting bracket, we can
start to put our factory bolt straight through again, tighten it up with the nut.
All right, at this point, take your 15-millimeter wrench and your 18-millimeter socket, and
tighten up the bottom shock bolt.
Now, we're here on the passenger side, we're gonna lift up this side of the axle, get our
rear shock to line up through the bracket here, bolt it down, and move on to the front.
I wanna make a quick note here that you wanna make sure both of your springs are coiled
or facing in the same general direction.
Now, if you didn't make note of where your factory springs are sitting, little pigtail
at the bottom of your rear spring, I like to point it right at the end of the rotor
here, right where the gap is between your rotor and the wheel well.
Right here is where that pigtail is gonna sit, and you wanna make sure the opposite
side is facing that same direction so they're not coiled in two different ways.
The last thing we have to do after the bolts are replaced on the bottom of the shocks is
bolt up the bracket holding on our brake line back into the hole on our frame.
As we're wrapping up the rear here, I just wanna make a quick point for you guys working
on the ground and not on a lift like we are.
A lift obviously makes things a lot easier, pole jacks are easy to control to lower down
our rear axle.
But if you're working on the ground, you've probably got jack stand supporting your car
at the pinch welds, which is a really good spot for them or under the frame.
And then, of course, you wanna have a hydraulic jack to be lowering and lifting your rear
axle.
Now, if you only have one hydraulic jack, you can just do it right under the pumpkin
or the differential.
That'll lower them both pretty evenly and you can work on them simultaneously.
If you've got a couple hydraulic jacks, I like to put one on each side to make your
life a little bit easier there for decompressing and compressing the springs.
Of course, you wanna make sure you're putting that hydraulic jack on the axle itself, not
on the control arms or anything like that.
Under the axle or under the differential is where you wanna put it if you're working on
the ground.
Now, we're finished on the rear, we've got everything bolted back up.
Let's move on to the front.
The front end here has a couple more things you have to disconnect but it's really not
too difficult.
If you're working on the ground, make sure you still have your jack stand supporting
your vehicle under the pinch welds.
Make sure you're using your hydraulic floor jack to support underneath of the A-arm.
Put a little bit of pressure on there, so once we just connect all of our bolts it doesn't
decompress the spring all the way.
Now, if you're using a lift like I am, a pole jack would be the exact same thing underneath
of the A-arm.
So the first thing we're gonna disconnect is our brake line bracket, and of course,
we're not putting pressure on it.
Number two is the top nut on our sway bar end link, that will disconnect the sway bar.
And then there's two more bolts at the bottom of our strut tower holding our strut to the
assembly itself.
So three things to disconnect there.
First thing we're gonna do is put our pole jack underneath the A-arm and then get to
work on our bracket.
All right, the first thing we're gonna disconnect is the brake line bracket here, bolt is on
the other side.
That'll come loose so we don't put pressure on it.
Second thing we're gonna disconnect is the top nut on our sway bar end link.
That's gonna disconnect our sway bar here so we're gonna do that.
Third thing we're gonna disconnect is the two bolts on the bottom of our strut here.
So our strut comes down and connects to the hub assembly, we're gonna remove those two
bolts there.
And you're gonna need both a socket and a wrench there to hold on from one side and
disconnect it, the same thing for your sway bar end link.
You're gonna disconnect this nut at the top but you're gonna have to hold on to the one
underneath here to keep it from spinning.
All right, so we're going to put a pole jack right here underneath of our A-arm.
Here we go.
So we're gonna use our ratcheting wrench here, a 10 millimeter to remove the bolt holding
on our brake line bracket.
This might be a little rusty, so you might wanna hit it with some PB Blaster and give
it some good old elbow grease.
Now, we're gonna put our 18-millimeter socket on the bolt underneath here, our sway bar
end link and we're gonna use our 14-millimeter wrench to remove our top nut.
All right, guys, when it comes time to take the bolts out of your strut on the front end
here when working on the driver side, you're gonna wanna use on a lot of PB Blaster or
WD-40 since it is upwards of 20 to 22 years old here.
The bolts are factory, they've never been removed.
So it is gonna be a little bit of a pain in the butt.
If you're having that much trouble after hitting it with the PB Blaster, you can always use
a breaker bar like I did.
This makes life a lot easier, gives you a lot more leverage, you can put more strength
on it.
Once the nuts are out of place, the bolts might be a little tough to get out by hand,
so you might need a hammer to knock them out of place.
And then if it doesn't actually fully come out, you can actually remove some of the tension
from the pole jack or jack stand underneath the car.
That way it can kind of play with the threading there and it will actually allow you to pull
the bolt out.
I'm gonna release some of the tension by pulling this pole jack up a little more, that way
the bolts will come out a little easier.
It's about time we lower down the pole jack to take that compression off of our front
spring here.
Make sure you're doing this with caution.
Just like the rear, it can be very dangerous if you do it too quickly.
Just wanna make sure you decompress that spring with ease and go very slowly.
So let's get to it.
You'll start to see your sway bar end link coming out of the sway bar there.
So, the fronts were a lot harder to get out than the rears, they were pretty stubborn
and are pretty much rusted to the A-arm here.
So what you're gonna need to do is use a lot of PB Blaster, WD-40, and a pry bar.
It's pretty lengthy to give yourself some leverage to pop that out of place and stand
out of the way so it doesn't pop right out and shoot at you.
So just be smart and be cautious when you're trying to get the front springs out.
Now what we're gonna do is take a flathead screwdriver and just scrape along the bottom
of this A-arm to scrape some of that rust out, clean it out and then pop our new SR
springs in.
To assemble our isolators onto our spring here, obviously, the flat one goes over top
of the flat and coil, that's gonna be the top of your spring.
We're gonna flip this over and this is gonna be a little bit more difficult.
So, we've got this tubing isolator that's gonna have to go all the way around the coil.
So you're gonna wrap this around so it's wrapped around that coil there.
So what I'm gonna do is take our PB Blaster and I'm gonna lube up real good the inside
of this tubing and then I'm gonna lube up the coil here, so hopefully it'll slip right
on.
So if it gives us any trouble, we'll use our mallet to knock things in.
But for now, let's lube it up and get to work.
So we're having a little trouble getting our isolator tube over the spring coil, simply
because the beginning of this coil here is a little too narrow for the thickness of this
tubing, so we can't actually feed it over.
So what I'm gonna do is use my knife for, is to cut this down the middle, I'm gonna
feed it over and wrap it around the coil itself.
So let's go ahead and get that started.
It's time we put our spring into place with the isolators.
We'll do the top first.
All right, we got our spring back in place, we've jacked it up enough to put pressure
on the spring to compress it a bit.
What we wanna do is jack everything up so that our caliper and hub assembly lines up
with the open holes on our lower strut.
So what we're gonna do is make sure it's jacked up properly, line it up, feed this bracket
into the open slot here, put the bolts through and tighten them down.
We'll finish it up by putting our sway bar end link back in place and then our brake
line bracket.
All right, now, we can put our 15/16th wrench over top of the nuts on the inside and then,
of course, use our 21 millimeters socket to tighten them down from the opposite side.
All right, so now we're gonna put our sway bar end link through, we're gonna put our
spacer in first, over our isolator in second, that's gonna sit up against our sway bar.
Now we're gonna put our rubber, spacer, cap it off with a nut.
All right, now, we can bolt back down our brake line bracket.
All right, guys, we're starting on our final corner here of our 97 Mustang.
The first things first, pole jack or jack stands or hydraulic floor jack goes underneath
of our A-arm here to support the weight of our spring so when we decompress it, it's
safe.
So what we're gonna do is start off by using a 10 millimeter ratcheting wrench to remove
the bolt holding on our brake line bracket, then we're gonna move in to the sway bar end
link again, finish things off with the two bolts holding on our strut to the hub assembly,
and then we'll be able to decompress the spring, pop it out, replace it, put it back together.
First things first, the 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench on our brake line bracket.
All right, next up we're using a 15-millimeter wrench and socket on the bottom to remove
our sway bar end link.
So I've got my 21-millimeter socket, my 15/16th wrench holding on the nut from the other side,
gonna remove the bolts on the bottom of the strut.
Right, now we can use our hammer and knock these bolts out.
All right, guys, it's about time we lower down this jack cautiously.
Now, remember, this is going to be a really dangerous part, it has potential to cause
some serious injury.
You wanna make sure that you're slowly lowering your jack down do decompress the spring.
I know I've made that point with all the other three corners that we've done so far.
But it's really important that you guys do this very slowly and cautiously, making sure
that it's decompressing enough that it's not gonna shoot out of its seat.
So what we're gonna do is rotate our pole jack here, if you're using a hydraulic jack,
make sure you're twisting that arm slowly to get it on the ground.
It's about the time we put in our last SR performance linear lowering spring.
We're gonna put it in here to our A-arm, get it seated properly, start raising up our pole
jack to meet it up a little bit more, put a little tension on it.
We'll put in a new sway bar end link since the old one was a little worse for wear.
We're also gonna put in our brake line bracket bolt and then, of course, finish it off with
the bolts in our strut.
So let's get to it.
All right, we got our spring seated here.
All we have to do now is put the jack underneath of it, jack it up a little bit, put some tension
in, and we can start reconnecting our pieces.
At this point, we got our spring seated.
I used a pry bar to get it to seat properly, just push up on it and it pops back into place.
We're gonna, at this point, replace our sway bar end link.
Now, this is the old one, here's our new one.
The old one got some, you know, worn out bushings going on here.
They're not gonna see a whole lot more life and it's also rusted to all hell.
So what we're gonna do is just completely replace this, this is good to go.
All we gotta do is unbolt the top of this, slip it into place, bolt it back down with
our bushings in the correct order.
All right, at this point, all we have to do is line up our hub to the holes in our strut
here, and put our bolt through them.
Now in order to do so, we might have to start jacking this up a little bit just to get it
to line up properly, but let's get to it.
Right, now last step here is to put back our brake line bracket right near the hole here.
You can thread it by hand and then work on it with our ratchet.
That's gonna wrap up my review and install walkthrough of the SR Performance Linear Lowering
Springs.
Now, we detailed the difference between the linear and progressive options, both of which
you can find for SR performance on our site here for approximately the same price of about
130 bucks.
If you're looking for the SR lowering springs with the linear spring rate, you can get yours
right here at americanmuscle.com.
For more infomation >> เคลมเปิดใจคุยกับไวโอเล็ต ซับไทย ตอน 3 The Walking Dead Final Season EP.2 PART 3 Violet Cleme - Duration: 34:03. 
For more infomation >> PRÓXIMO VÍDEO: MAYA ANGELOU | O Álbum das Mulheres Incríveis - Duration: 0:29. 
For more infomation >> Tail-end Charlie and the Junkers Ju 87 Stuka Pilot. A WWII Story - Duration: 5:47. 
For more infomation >> Strzelanie dynamiczne IPSC - wywiad z Dynamic Shooting Team Militaria.pl - Duration: 3:24. 
For more infomation >> ✨Как легко сделать автобонус в #Bepic!✨ Заработай дополнительно $500! ✨Маргарита Вель. 2 часть - Duration: 6:47. 
For more infomation >> Des Moines dad accused of driving drunk with 3 kids in car - Duration: 1:50. 
For more infomation >> 很嗯嗯嗯的一款遊戲【TENKYU】chu玩遊戲｜有cc字幕 - Duration: 3:16. 
For more infomation >> Quy mô dự án Pullman Phú Quốc Resort - Land Go Fly ✔ - Duration: 2:59. 
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét