Is it fall yet? I know for many of you
fall is your very favorite season and
today I have for you a polymer clay
jewelry project that celebrates the warm
shades and beautiful imagery of autumn.
You can use the simple sculpting that I
show to create tube beads like I'm
going to demonstrate or you can put them
on anything you like: a necklace pendant,
home decorations, whatever you want
to celebrate fall in your own way.
Hi there, Sandy here, welcome to another
polymer clay jewelry video at
keepsakecrafts.net. The very first thing
I did for this project was I mixed up a
shade of clay that I thought would be a
pretty backdrop for a lot of antiquing. We're going to add all sorts of texture
so this color really is kind of a
backdrop for the antiquing and the
metallic highlights that we'll add to it.
To get my color I mixed two parts ecru,
two parts gold and one part burnt umber.
Once you have your color mixed roll that
out to a thin, maybe a number three or
four setting, somewhere around a
millimeter thick. I was sort of going for
the look of carved stone so what I have
here are a whole bunch of embossing
powders. If you've ever done scrapbooking
you probably have a bunch of these
already in your stash. I wouldn't go out
and buy them especially for this, they
certainly add a lot though and I just
pulled some shades that I thought would
work and surprisingly the green looks
really great, it's just a bit of contrast
and I've got a little tool here, this is
one of these Arteza ceramic sculpting
tools and it's actually kind of perfect
for just scooping up a little bit of
each of these embossing powders and
we're going to mix this into our clay
for a stone like look. Again, I'm not
going to list off all of the specific
colors I used because really you just
find some shades, I've got beige and brown...
Black I think really gives some great
contrast
and the mossy green is kind of cool but
really just pull out whatever you've got
any kind of little speckles in there
will give it the stone like look. Then
spread this as thinly as you can, embossing
powder is kind of a pain to mix in to
polymer clay so if you can kind of
spread it thin and get as much of it as
possible already stuck to the clay that
will help. Now I'm just gonna fold my
sheet in half this way and then I'm
going to fold it this way,
send it through my pasta machine with
this fold down and this fold on the side,
that will minimize air bubbles and
mess and you just keep sending it
through until the powders are evenly
mixed in. Once you have your embossing
powders mixed in your clay will look
something like this, it'll have this
speckled look which really enhances the
idea that it's stone. You'll want to roll
your clay out to a medium thin setting,
this is about a number 4 which is maybe
a little bit over a millimeter thick. You
don't really need the walls of the beads
to be too thick, these are ones I made
earlier that I think we're on the number
2 setting in my pasta machine and I
think they're just a little too thick, so
4 seems to be pretty good. We're going to
form the tube beads on a dowel, this is a
quarter inch wooden dowel and I've just
wrapped it with a piece of deli paper,
you can use parchment paper, you can even
just use plain typing paper, do make sure
that you secure the end down well. Here
I've used just some scotch tape which
may stick a little to the inside of the
beads but it'll come right off. You can
also if you want to take the time use a
very thin smear of tacky glue and glue
to hold it until it's glued down. You do
want to glue it down well, the clay will not
hold it down as evidenced by these. You
can see where I have wrapped some paper
around and
that very edge was not stuck down and it
stayed stuck up, it did not, the clay
being wrapped around it didn't flatten
it and it kind of distorted the shape of
my bead, it's got this bump so I'm not
going to use these. Also I didn't really
like the color. You do want to make sure
that you get that edge of the paper
nice and flat. Then I'll just cut a
straight edge and just lift that up a
bit so it'll lift go ahead and wrap the
clay around the dowel just like you were
wrapping it around a cane. Roll it
forward, make a mark and cut just inside
that mark,
roll it up and smooth away the seam,
don't be too aggressive with your tube
of clay here. What you don't want to do
is stretch it out so that it ends up
being bigger than the dowel that it's
wrapped on because what happens then is
it kind of slops around and it doesn't
fit on there tightly and it moves on you
and it doesn't keep that nice shape
Go ahead and just smooth that seam with your
fingers until it's all well blended. Now
my whole thought behind these beads like
I said was to get the look of carved
stone so I really want to add a lot of
texture to this and this is a fun tool
to use, it worked perfectly, it's just a
bottle brush it came in that Arteza set
of tools that I showed you a while ago.
If you use the narrow end it makes
little holes which are going to look
wonderful when antiqued and they're
filled with paint.If you use the wider
end you end up with more of lines, so a
combination of that and just cover the
whole thing with a texture. If you need
to afterwards you can roll it lightly to
reform the shape if it got a little
distorted. We're almost ready to bake
these beads but you want to cut them
apart into the lengths that you want. I
like making them anywhere from half an
inch to at the most about 3/4 of an inch.
What I found works best is you hold your
blade right on there and then roll the
tube away from you and you will be able
to see this line coming up underneath in
time to line your blade up with it
perfectly, there. Go around one more time
nice and carefully just to cut through
all the way to the paper, then decide
your width and repeat until you've made all
the cuts
for all the beads that you want. Here's
one I did earlier and baked and these
come right off and they usually fall
apart, if not they'll just break apart. If
you don't like the way these ends look
you can just rub them on a bit of
sandpaper. I kind of liked the way they
looked so I just left them as is. Now
here's a spot where I didn't line it up
properly so I just got it even and then
started again in another spot and this I
can just break off, again, if you need to
sand it you can do that. And a little
dowel like that with not even six inches
I don't think of clay wrapped around it
will give you plenty of beads for a
bracelet. Now it's time to decorate our
beads with some little fall motifs. What
I'm going to do is decorate three larger
ones for my bracelet with more of the
motifs and then I'm going to use smaller
ones in between with just a simpler
decoration. So I'm going to show you how
to make a few different motifs. The first
thing I'll show you is a little oak leaf.
Just go ahead and roll maybe a slightly
smaller than quarter inch ball of clay,
make a smooth ball, make it slightly oval
and flatten it slightly on your work
surface. I often make my leaves and
decorations pretty thin and delicate but
for this project I'm keeping them a
little bit thicker, again going with my
idea of carved stone and also the fact
that these are going to be on a bracelet,
they're going to get banged around, we're
going to antique them pretty
aggressively, so they really need to be
strong enough to hold up to all that
treatment. I love my little bent needle
tool for this, it just makes it so easy
to get in the space. So this is how I
figured out to make an oak leaf and
actually if you look it up online there
are lots of different styles of oak
leaves.
You just press into the long edge of
your oval one, two, three. So in the center,
and if you need to even flatten out
again, and then one on each side and
repeat on this side and now you have
this funny-looking little blob. Take a
small silicone shaper... I'll have links to
these products that I'm using at my blog
post, start in the middle one and just
kind of poke it in and then roll it up,
poke it in, roll it up roll it up. I found
this works best if you start in the
center one, if you start on an edge one
it sometimes closes up the other ones,
just like that. It's still not looking
terribly like an oak leaf but we'll get
there. I'm going to make this pointy but
boy, I searched Google Images for oak
leaves and acorns and I was amazed at
all the different shapes that oak leaves
came in, but I kind of just made an oak
leaf that looks like what I think of as
an oak leaf. Actually, first I tried to
make it from just my mind and what I
thought it should look like and then it
didn't look right so then I went and
looked it up and saw actually it was
just a matter of having the right number
of lobes seemed to work. I'm going to put
a very thin coat of TLS over my bead. I
want a very thin coat because I don't
want to fill in all of that texture that
I made earlier that I want the antiquing
to go into. And pick up your leaf, which
does not look much like a leaf at the
moment, and place it wherever you want it
on your bead and lightly tap it down and
now we'll make it look like a leaf and
adhere it more firmly to our bead at the
same time. Take your needle tool go ahead
and press in the center vein
and then press in a angled vein from
each, on each side heading towards each
of the lobes. That's right I thought it'd
look better going from the center out,
there we go. If you need to you can take
your needle tool and kind of refine
those inner corners if they got squished
out too much and there you have an oak
leaf.
Another thing that looks really good
with this motif are just little itty
bitty clay balls. Roll them really tiny
and if you roll one that you think is
too big, and it can be really hard
to roll these small enough, so if you
rolled one that you said, Oh, that's much
too big," don't try to cut the ball in
half, just roll it into a bit of a snake
and cut it into two or three pieces. I
ended up using about six or so for each
of my beads so it's a good idea to
actually roll out a bunch ahead of time
and then you can just grab them and
instead of having to stop and roll them
for each one that you need, that gets
kind of tedious. Pop those onto your bead,
make sure there's TLS under where they
are,
use an eighth inch ball tool to just
press, this not only adheres them better
to the clay and also, I think it
makes me think of an acorn cap, I don't
know, something about the shape just
seems more fallish, and it also gives a
great place for some of that paint to
stick. So there's oak leaves, little berry
dotty things, and let me show you how to
make an acorn. You're gonna roll the ball
may be slightly larger than what you
used for your oak leaf, roll it in
your fingers and try to try to kind of
pinch and pull out at that point, it's
gonna be a little exaggerated now, that's
okay, and acorns come in different shapes
and sizes, there's round ones, long
thin ones, they come in all kinds of
shapes. So don't worry about that shape
for now, we'll fix that in a moment and
then roll out a fairly small amount, it
kind of just takes trial and error to
figure out how much is the right amount
for this, and flatten it into an oval and
use the handle of a tool. Here's a few
different ones: this is a leather
stamping set and this handle makes a
great texture, this is part of that Arteza
set. This is my needle tool which
has a texture. I'm going to use this one
just to get sort of an acorn cap texture,
just like that.
You want to wrap this around the top of
your little acorn shape and wrap it
around the back,
you just want a light touch, and then I
got kind of this excess on the back. I'm
just gonna hold this sideways, make sure you've
got the sharp end down, and slice. That'll
give you a flat surface back here that
will much better stick to your bead.
Pop on your acorn, as you're fiddling
with it and trying to get this shape the
way you want it that will help press it
onto the bead. If you get it perfect on
the tile first and then put it on your
bead you're going to have a hard time
getting that shape the way you want.
And we're kind of using the rubber tool
to sort of give it a texture here, maybe
again reminiscent of hand carved, and
also you can take your... and it's good to
hold it like this by the ends, take your
tool and you can kind of lightly re-
impress your texture on the cap and that
will also help press it in place. So the
the silicone tool is really great here
just for cleaning it up and getting it
just right For the stem, that's pretty
simple, just roll a little bit, I like to
trim it at a jaunty angle, that's
probably too big. I'll use this little or
one smaller bit
and pop that on there.
Yeah, that's too big.
Okay.
So you can fiddle with that as much as
you want, add more dots. There's one more
thing I'll show you how to do and that
is a little pumpkin and really anything
that you can think of that you'd like to
use as a motif just think about how it
breaks down into smaller basic shapes. I
mean a pumpkin is pretty simple. I've
got an oval but you can make your
pumpkin shaped however you want, you can
have the oval going the other way. I'm
just gonna take my needle tool and
lightly draw in those curved sections
and you can make it kind of perfectly
centered. I sort of didn't want to, I
wanted it to look a little I don't know
I guess off-center, just draw those in
for now. For my bracelet I just made one
pumpkin and he was kind of, he was on the
center bead. So TLS, I'd recommend just
covering the whole thing so you don't
miss any spots, put your pumpkin on and
again just like with the oak leaf now we
can take our rubber shaper tool and kind of
soften and deepen those lines we drew in
and at the same time we'll be pressing
it more deeply or firmly onto your bead.
And I kind of like with the acorn,
sort of, yeah that's another reason a
thin layer of liquid clay so it doesn't
slide around so much, kind of went over
it like this it sort of adds to that
hand-carved look. You add a stem the same
way as we did on the acorn. Now for the
smaller accent beads all I added was
some curlicues and dots just to keep it
simple so they had decoration but it
wasn't quite so much as the acorns and
pumpkins and leaves. Now it can be very
tricky to roll clay out this thin and
make it
even and have it not break on you so
what I like to do is I'll roll it out as
far as I can with my fingers then take
an acrylic block like that's used for in
scrapbooking and rubber stamping and
just use that. You can kind of just keep
rolling, have very light pressure and you
can kind of pull and stretch and stroke
and keep rolling until that's as thin as
you need it to be. If you want you can
actually start making your curlicues
right on your tile if you have a nice
long piece it may be easier than doing
it on the bead but it's also harder to
gauge the spacing if you do it on the
tile. You might want to try it both ways.
I like having that long piece it just
kind of helps me. Okay. Oh! Look what I just did.
Actually it's already kind of programmed
in there so maybe that'll work,
oh my goodness, okay.
So that's one way, make the loops and
then just pick it up and lay it on the
bead and actually I did that on the
other ones that I'll show you in a
minute but you can also do it like this.
Just hold your bead by the sides and
pick it up and position them. The rubber
shaper really is your friend here
because you can move those to just
where you want it to be without marring.
Do make sure you tap those down as
firmly as you dare, you don't want to
flatten your little vines but tap them
down make sure that they are going to be
well adhered to your bead because these
are pretty delicate so you really want
them stuck on there. And I'm just gonna
stop here for the moment. You get the
idea and then just a few little dots and
the little dots are kind of fun because you
can... oh, those little dots just love me, my hands must be
sticky.
You can kind of use them to add even a
bit more curve and shape to your vines.
So that's what I did with just the
accent beads and you can just place them
like this on a tile and bake them and
we'll be ready to antique. So here are
the beads I made out of the oven. I'm not
sure if I'm going to use five or seven
in my bracelet but I made these four
little spacers just like I showed you
with swirls and dots so they're just a
little simpler than having the bigger
kind of chunky motifs on all of them. I
think they're really cute just as they
are so I think they're gonna be great
once I get some antiquing on them. Acorns, the
pumpkin... I put some little swirly vines
around the pumpkin. I'm really pleased
with how these look. This is six
millimeter leather cord from Endless
Leather, I'll have a link to them and
actually looking at it I probably could
have used thicker cord and what I
did here was glued in a copper end cap
with some two-part epoxy, you just mix
equal parts of each, you only need a
little tiny bit, and then apply it. So I
glued in one end because it's kind of
tricky to figure out the size of this so
it's helpful to have one end glued in
and then I added a toggle clasp to the
other one and this way I can actually
more accurately figure just how long I
want my bracelet to be. I should probably
take this one off. Don't you love
swirly lentil beads? These were from
a class that I did at CraftArtEdu
which sadly is no longer, that website is
no longer in existence, but I am planning
at some point to take these classes and
make them PDF classes out in my Etsy
shop, that will be a little while, maybe
by the end of the year. If you signed up
for my newsletter I will let you know
when new
classes are available in my Etsy shop.
I'm kind of taking all of my old things
from Polymer Café, those are all on there
and then CraftArtEdu and once that's
done then maybe I'll start making new
ones, we'll see. So there, that's kind of
where I would wear it and you definitely
want to take into account that these
beads are pretty chunky so the bracelet
will have to be a little bit longer. So I
know the cord's going to go into that
point on the cap so right about there
and I'm just gonna back it off like
maybe an eighth of an inch and cut that
and once we have the beads all finished
and strung then we can just glue the
other cap. I think these caps came
from Artbeads I'll have links at my blog
post. If you're ever looking for the
things that I use in a video I always
write a blog post and there's always a
link up here or in the description box
to that blog post where I have more
information,
supply lists, product links. I always
write the blog post after I make the
video and I usually think of other
things after, I'll think of other ways
you can use the technique or other ways I
could have improved it. So I just have
here some heavy body acrylic, I really
like this transparent raw umber for
antiquing, but use whatever paint you
have, you could use black, you could use
brown, and I'm gonna be really aggressive
here. I want to get that paint into all
that texture that we made, the texture
that we made on the base bead and all
the little nooks and crannies in the
loops and like underneath these bits,
the veins of the leaves
and those little dots that we made. So
I'm using kind of an old messy brush and
really scrubbing, kind of looking at it
from several angles and you're just
antique... Oh that one's eager to be
antiqued! Oh yeah, and the acorn cap
texture, get it thoroughly coated and
then let the beads sit just until the
paint stops being shiny so it's dried
that much, that way when you wipe it off
you won't be removing more than you want
to. I don't like to let it dry 100%
because sometimes then you have to scrub
too hard to take off the paint, but I
don't want to start taking off the paint
was it's wet because then you take off too
much, so it's kind of a balancing act. So
that's one reason I like the heavy body
paint because it dries a bit more
quickly,
it has less water in it. So my beads
have just started to lose their
shininess so I'm going to go ahead and
remove the paint. You can use all sorts
of things, you could use a paper towel
that you've wet and then wrung out
really well, wrung out as much water as
you can, this is a baby wipe that I've
wrung out as much of the water as I can.
You could use a microfiber cloth,
those are great especially if you have
something that has a bit of texture like
a rough texture like tree bark or
something a microfiber cloth that
doesn't have loops is great because a
paper product may shred and tear in the
rough texture and leave bits behind
which is kind of a pain to dig out so the
microfiber cloth won't do that.
Oh, isn't that nice, I'm really pleased
with how these are looking. You'll want
to keep changing to a clean area because
if I keep wiping with this part I'm just
gonna keep wiping the paint back on
so you have to just keep moving to a
clean area and I'm not going to take off
too much paint. I don't
want it to look, I don't know, I just like
the look with a fair amount of paint
left on here, not too cleaned up, and I
think all that texture that I added to
the background bead really paid off, that
looks great.
So you just wipe off all of your beads
to the point you want them to be and let
them dry. So many of you have told me
that you have learned a lot from my
videos and that you just really enjoy
them and my style of teaching, and that
just thrills me to pieces because I love
creating things and I love teaching and
if you'd like to get more of my videos
my patrons can get up to two bonus
tutorials a month. I also have as I
mentioned earlier a few PDF tutorials.
If you like fairy gardens and sculpting
in miniature right now I have I think
nine fairy garden tutorials, they're
downloadable PDFs so you can go purchase
it now, download it and have it available
right away to to create with. I have
those my Etsy shop and I'm also planning
on adding more in the near future as I
mentioned. Okay so you just go ahead and
do that with all of your pieces. So here
they are after as much as the paint as I
want to remove is removed and you can
leave them like this and let them dry,
string them and finish your bracelet but
I thought I wanted to add a little
something more. What I have here are some
Vintaj patinas. I have rose gold and
antique copper and I just dry brushed
some on and this is a test I did earlier.
This is rose gold, this is antique copper,
the difference is pretty subtle
especially on a project like this on
this color, but I think I like the rose
gold better so I'll show you how I did
that.
Make sure you shake these up well,
there's a ball in there that you can
hear, make sure that's flowing freely.
This is a great trick I learned from
Christi Friesen, when you want to
dry brush with something put your paint
on a piece of paper, this is just a scrap
of cardstock I dug from my trash can, and
kind of rub your brush on the paper and
the paper will absorb the water and that
way you'll be able to dry brush. I'm
using again an old kind of messy brush I
didn't want it to be too full because I didn't
want to be adding a heavy amount, just
little touches, so I'm not trying to go
over the entire thing. I thought it might
be really nice to finish the edges a
little bit more.
Again, not like a thorough coat but just
a little bit.
So I like that ,it just adds something and I
think it'll kind of go with the metal in
the findings. So once you have your beads
antiqued, painted, touched up however
you like then you go ahead and slide
them on your cord in whatever order you
want, make sure you're happy with it
because then the next step is to glue in
the other end with two-part epoxy. So I
hope you enjoyed this video and if you
would like to get more videos from me
every month take a peek at my Patreon
page and don't forget there are links to
supplies and materials which you can
find at my blog post which is linked in
the description box and in the
upper-right of this video. Happy creating,
bye bye.
For more infomation >> Mon job d'architecte technique ! - Papotons #2 - Duration: 12:01. 
For more infomation >> Qual o projeto de Estado da pós-modernidade? - Duration: 1:27. 
For more infomation >> COMO CORTAR VÍDEOS PARA OS STORIES | INSTAGRAM STORIES - Duration: 3:21. 
For more infomation >> Leonberger [2018] Rasse, Aussehen & Charakter - Duration: 5:31. 
For more infomation >> 100 Romantic Backyard - Patio Decoration Ideas | Grden Ideas - Duration: 12:12. 
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét